/ replacement for the shunt for roped soloing?

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Landy_Dom on 22 Nov 2012
jimjimjim on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom: that link is a download people....
Landy_Dom on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to jimjimjim:

Here is the original web page that references the above pdf if people are more comfortable with that, I just linked to the pdf because it has more detail...

http://www.iscwales.com/news/ISC-RED-Back-up-Device/?page=1
Jonny2vests - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom:

Looks a bit like an Ushba, or a Troll Rocker. I wonder what they mean by 'Rated Capacity'. 240kg doesn't sound like much.
Jonny2vests - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to jimjimjim:
> (In reply to Landy_Dom) that link is a download people....

Not sure why that's an issue...
Landy_Dom on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Landy_Dom)
>
> Looks a bit like an Ushba, or a Troll Rocker.

It's from the company that makes the Rocker for Troll, so might be an evolution of the Rocker, I'm not sure.
Jonny2vests - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom:

Ok. I have a rocker and a shunt, mainly I use the latter. Don't do much soloing with it these days, handy for simul climbing though.
climber david - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Landy_Dom)
>
> Looks a bit like an Ushba, or a Troll Rocker. I wonder what they mean by 'Rated Capacity'. 240kg doesn't sound like much.

Thats the maximum user weight/rescue package weight, not the maximum weight that the device will hold up
Jonny2vests - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to climber david:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> Thats the maximum user weight/rescue package weight, not the maximum weight that the device will hold up

Thanks. Still makes no sense to me though.
needvert on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom:

Says self parking not self tailing. That sounds less than desirable.
Landy_Dom on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to needvert:
> (In reply to Landy_Dom)
>
> Says self parking not self tailing. That sounds less than desirable.

I thought that meant the sprung cams defaulted to a grabbing position (like the shunt) rather than defaulting to a running position (like the Rocker) until it was loaded?

I might be wrong though. Be interesting to try one...
ads.ukclimbing.com
Adam Long - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom:

I've trialled these for work purposes, as well as the Heightec Manta and Kong Back-up, which work on very similar lines. The Kong one is a bit smaller and has a neat switch to activate the spring on the cam.

They all comply with the Industrial Back-up standard EN 12841A. A Shunt will not pass this standard for a few reasons - strength being a big one. Loaded against a knot a Shunt will release the rope at 4-5kN. So strength is one advantage of these devices over a Shunt.

Other than that any other advantages will come down to personal preference, as with a Shunt you will be using it outside manufacturer's recommendations so don't expect any guidance. Petzl of course recommend using a toothed device like a Basic ascender or Mini traxion.

Personally I'd leave these devices to rope access and use a Mini/ micro traxion. For me the increase in safety from a toothed device (much harder to override it accidentally, eg by grabbing the body) far outweigh any issues of rope damage from the teeth. You still need a second device for descending whichever option you go for.

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