/ Which rope for winter climbing

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wheelsucker - on 24 Nov 2012

Hi folks

I'm looking for a new rope for winter climbing in Scotland so a rope fit for mixed, ice and snow routes would be proper bo!

Price and weight are important and the Elderid Apus has caught my eye.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?
wheelsucker - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker:

Should add I'm looking for a 50m half rope.
The Ex-Engineer - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker: FWIW if pushed to buy new 50m double ropes tomorrow for mixed and well as ice, I'd go for a pair of Beal Cobra II Golden Dry without much hesitation. However that is pretty much discounting weight and price as irrelevant and focusing instead on impact force, the number of test falls and sharp edge resistance.

I'd also go for a pair of Beal Icelines over the Edelrid Apus any day of the week as they are the same weight but the Icelines have a lower impact force.
wheelsucker - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Interesting stuff there. Not much difference between the Ice Lines and Apus including UIAA falls and only 300g difference in weight between the Cobra and the other two although the Cobra is far superior in terms of falls.

BofA Matt - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker:

Gary - I'd go for the cobra and get 60m. 60m definately very useful in winter and greater diameter slightly more confidence inspiring whilst mixed climbing! Thinner maybe better for snow/ice though.

Cheers,
MB
The Ex-Engineer - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker: It is a really tricky one as regards length and weight.

If I was buying 50m ropes I'd go for Cobras but if I was buying 60m ropes I'd probably go for the Icelines.

For me the decision on length comes down to whether you are buying solely for all-round UK use where 50m is generally sufficient or whether you my end up also using the ropes abroad for Alpine Mountaineering or major icefalls where the extra 10m can prove massively useful.
wheelsucker - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to Matt Buchanan:

I'm sorted for 60m ropes but need a 50 for the Gorms in particular. I'm not that sold on 60's in Scotland apart from the Ben.
BofA Matt - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker:

In that case definately cobra or similiar.
kyaizawa - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker: I'd have to agree with all of the above: got a pair of (60m) Beal Cobra Golden Dry and I think they are ace, though multiple friends swear by the Mammut Genesis half ropes.
nniff - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker:

I've got a Mammut 'something' and an Edelrid Apus. Everyone likes the Apus - it handles beautifully, which is a real help when wearing gloves. I prefer it to the ice line that i used to have.

Dave Kerr - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker:
> (In reply to Matt Buchanan)
>
> I'm sorted for 60m ropes but need a 50 for the Gorms in particular. I'm not that sold on 60's in Scotland apart from the Ben.

Eh? Different rope for the gorms? Have you strayed in from a 'what tyres for Dalby Forest' thread on singletrackworld?

neil the weak - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave Kerr:

> Eh? Different rope for the gorms? Have you strayed in from a 'what tyres for Dalby Forest' thread on singletrackworld?

"like"

iksander on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to wheelsucker: 60m phoenixes, feel as light as a 50m
CurlyStevo - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Personally I'd rather suffer a little impact force and get the pheonixes which are incredibaly hard wearing for an 8mm rope. I know a few people with beal ice lines and they all say they are not hard wearing.

Has there been any tests done on impact force on worn ropes? I suspect it would make interesting reading.
CurlyStevo - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

"Interesting stuff there. Not much difference between the Ice Lines and Apus including UIAA falls and only 300g difference in weight between the Cobra and the other two although the Cobra is far superior in terms of falls. "

Have you seen the UIAA and BMC reports on ropes? They don't break! they get cut or checmically damaged.

I think ropes are less likely to get cut in winter and you already have a good safety margin using two ropes over one rope.
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wheelsucker - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave Kerr:

'Like' also!

I probably sound like a bit of a dick with that statement but I don't think you need the extra 10m or 20 when you count both ropes on routes in the Norries or similar crags. I appreciate its a bit extravagant having both 50 or 60 but its a fair weight saving and ultimately both will last longer.

And don't get me started on tyre choice!

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