/ Which rope for winter climbing
I'm looking for a new rope for winter climbing in Scotland so a rope fit for mixed, ice and snow routes would be proper bo!
Price and weight are important and the Elderid Apus has caught my eye.
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Should add I'm looking for a 50m half rope.
I'd also go for a pair of Beal Icelines over the Edelrid Apus any day of the week as they are the same weight but the Icelines have a lower impact force.
Interesting stuff there. Not much difference between the Ice Lines and Apus including UIAA falls and only 300g difference in weight between the Cobra and the other two although the Cobra is far superior in terms of falls.
Gary - I'd go for the cobra and get 60m. 60m definately very useful in winter and greater diameter slightly more confidence inspiring whilst mixed climbing! Thinner maybe better for snow/ice though.
If I was buying 50m ropes I'd go for Cobras but if I was buying 60m ropes I'd probably go for the Icelines.
For me the decision on length comes down to whether you are buying solely for all-round UK use where 50m is generally sufficient or whether you my end up also using the ropes abroad for Alpine Mountaineering or major icefalls where the extra 10m can prove massively useful.
I'm sorted for 60m ropes but need a 50 for the Gorms in particular. I'm not that sold on 60's in Scotland apart from the Ben.
In that case definately cobra or similiar.
I've got a Mammut 'something' and an Edelrid Apus. Everyone likes the Apus - it handles beautifully, which is a real help when wearing gloves. I prefer it to the ice line that i used to have.
> I'm sorted for 60m ropes but need a 50 for the Gorms in particular. I'm not that sold on 60's in Scotland apart from the Ben.
Eh? Different rope for the gorms? Have you strayed in from a 'what tyres for Dalby Forest' thread on singletrackworld?
Personally I'd rather suffer a little impact force and get the pheonixes which are incredibaly hard wearing for an 8mm rope. I know a few people with beal ice lines and they all say they are not hard wearing.
Has there been any tests done on impact force on worn ropes? I suspect it would make interesting reading.
"Interesting stuff there. Not much difference between the Ice Lines and Apus including UIAA falls and only 300g difference in weight between the Cobra and the other two although the Cobra is far superior in terms of falls. "
Have you seen the UIAA and BMC reports on ropes? They don't break! they get cut or checmically damaged.
I think ropes are less likely to get cut in winter and you already have a good safety margin using two ropes over one rope.
I probably sound like a bit of a dick with that statement but I don't think you need the extra 10m or 20 when you count both ropes on routes in the Norries or similar crags. I appreciate its a bit extravagant having both 50 or 60 but its a fair weight saving and ultimately both will last longer.
And don't get me started on tyre choice!
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