/ El chorro
Easier than what you're looking for but Amptrax is a brill route not to be missed.
> Easier than what you're looking for but Amptrax is a brill route not to be missed.
+1. IIRC its about a 5 or 5+, but what a route...
Poema de Roca, is a good 7a and there's a 7b+ on the right of it that's also very good, In the Poema de Roca sector.
I think the route you're thinking of may be Viejo Traidor; I have some pics of it on my profile. Also my mate enjoyed "Arabesque" which is a 3* 7a in the sector of the same name (both these routes should get the sun).
Zeppelin. 10 pitches up a stunning line. 2 trad pitches (VS/HVS sort of level, well protected), you'll need a set of wires and some cams. A 60m abseil rope will get you off the railway bridge and to the river. Don't approach from Sector Recodo!
I agree with the person above, Poema de Roca is a classic 7a to try, plenty of good rests in it too.
Also, Viejo amigo 7a is great- situated in Frontales poema de roca
The splits 7b line... nice, short route in frontales poema de roca.
Program genocida 6b+. awesome steady route. real good climbing.
there is also a 7a to the left of it which isnt in the rockfax book, its a bare looking slab wall.
Las Encantadas Upper -
on the very far right almost in the gully there is an awesome slabby 7a called 'Fiebra de sur' and a 6c+ to the left (which feels a solid 7a) called 'Dura vida la de un frekee.'
El Truco del Almendruco at Albercones is a good test at 7a
And Little Brown Baby is good fun despite the polish
No problem with access to Encatadas these days then? When we were there (which was a very long time ago) climbing was banned.
Is the sector on the right of Arab Steps open again? Looked pretty well fenced off when we were up there last winter...
of the one's i've managed to get up, i'd recommend
sheik tu dinero 6c+
rock the kashbah 7b
Poema de Roca:
poema de roca (pitch 1) 7a (very polished but still enjoyable)
viejo traidor 7b+ (very polished but still enjoyable)
vivac porus 7a+
insominio de equipmiento 6c+
anack sunamun 7b
honk down 7c (out of grade range but def worth a go)
all the routes up at the overhanging bit are great fun
little brown baby 7a+
simon ha perdido el panadero 6c+
el ultimo rayo del sol 7a+ (one of my favourite routes here)
zeppelin 6c+ (great multipitch)
all the 6c routes i've been on are fantastic here
los siete larrys 7b (soft touch. really fun climb)
forgotten which routes i've done here but all the routes around life is sweet were excellent.
if you have a car desplomilandia has some fantastic routes and is well worth the trip.
a bit quieter as well, especially that christmas period.
staying at the olive branch til mid jan. give me shout if you have any other queries.
the fences are still there. a lot of people are ignoring them and climbing the routes anyway.
i forgot encantadas...
generacion limite 7b+
gros rouge 7b (to second chain), 7a+ (to first chain)
dura vida la de un frekee 6c+ (i really enjoy this one but not everyone does)
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