/ El chorro

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luke384 on 25 Nov 2012
Hi, I am heading to el chorro for christmas an new year going for 8 days an was wondering if anyone had some good beta on the best routes of the 6c+ to 7b+ grade range. keen to send some brill lines!!
Sierra Nevada Guides - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to luke384:
Easier than what you're looking for but Amptrax is a brill route not to be missed.
John_Hat - on 25 Nov 2012
In reply to Sierra Nevada Guides:
> (In reply to luke384)
> Easier than what you're looking for but Amptrax is a brill route not to be missed.

+1. IIRC its about a 5 or 5+, but what a route...
dg123 - on 26 Nov 2012
In reply to luke384:
Poema de Roca, is a good 7a and there's a 7b+ on the right of it that's also very good, In the Poema de Roca sector.
silhouette - on 26 Nov 2012
In reply to dg123:
> Poema de Roca, is a good 7a and there's a 7b+ on the right of it that's also very good, In the Poema de Roca sector.

I think the route you're thinking of may be Viejo Traidor; I have some pics of it on my profile. Also my mate enjoyed "Arabesque" which is a 3* 7a in the sector of the same name (both these routes should get the sun).

Will Hunt - on 26 Nov 2012
In reply to luke384:

Zeppelin. 10 pitches up a stunning line. 2 trad pitches (VS/HVS sort of level, well protected), you'll need a set of wires and some cams. A 60m abseil rope will get you off the railway bridge and to the river. Don't approach from Sector Recodo!
Shortarse.Crowley - on 26 Nov 2012
In reply to luke384:

I agree with the person above, Poema de Roca is a classic 7a to try, plenty of good rests in it too.

Also, Viejo amigo 7a is great- situated in Frontales poema de roca

The splits 7b line... nice, short route in frontales poema de roca.

Las encantadas-

Program genocida 6b+. awesome steady route. real good climbing.

there is also a 7a to the left of it which isnt in the rockfax book, its a bare looking slab wall.

Las Encantadas Upper -

on the very far right almost in the gully there is an awesome slabby 7a called 'Fiebra de sur' and a 6c+ to the left (which feels a solid 7a) called 'Dura vida la de un frekee.'


mark20 - on 26 Nov 2012
El Ultimo Rayo Del Sol was my favourite route of the trip, nice wall climbing on good edges. Continue up the gorge and do Tipo Sueca and Bon Voyage 6c (amazing - well under rated) for a good day out.
El Truco del Almendruco at Albercones is a good test at 7a
And Little Brown Baby is good fun despite the polish
robw007 - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to luke384:

No problem with access to Encatadas these days then? When we were there (which was a very long time ago) climbing was banned.
luke384 on 27 Nov 2012
Wicked awesome cheers guys, will bear them in mind, psyced for a trip away from this gumf weather were getting battered with!!!
Melanie Byrne - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to luke384: Hi Its Mel at the Olive Branch in El CHorro, we have lots of climbers here and some staff that are climbers that know alot of the crags and can help with recommendations or advice on the crags so come and see us, or stay if you like! Also I can confirm there are no current climbing bans in El Chorro.
mark20 - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to Melanie Byrne:
Is the sector on the right of Arab Steps open again? Looked pretty well fenced off when we were up there last winter...
Johann - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to luke384:

of the one's i've managed to get up, i'd recommend

Escalare arabe:
sheik tu dinero 6c+
rock the kashbah 7b

Poema de Roca:
poema de roca (pitch 1) 7a (very polished but still enjoyable)
viejo traidor 7b+ (very polished but still enjoyable)
vivac porus 7a+

Momia
insominio de equipmiento 6c+
anack sunamun 7b
honk down 7c (out of grade range but def worth a go)

suizo
all the routes up at the overhanging bit are great fun

castrojo
little brown baby 7a+
simon ha perdido el panadero 6c+

the gorge
el ultimo rayo del sol 7a+ (one of my favourite routes here)
zeppelin 6c+ (great multipitch)

el polvorin
all the 6c routes i've been on are fantastic here

Los tigres
los siete larrys 7b (soft touch. really fun climb)

makinodromo
forgotten which routes i've done here but all the routes around life is sweet were excellent.

if you have a car desplomilandia has some fantastic routes and is well worth the trip.
a bit quieter as well, especially that christmas period.

staying at the olive branch til mid jan. give me shout if you have any other queries.

j
Johann - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to mark20:

Mark

the fences are still there. a lot of people are ignoring them and climbing the routes anyway.

Johann
ads.ukclimbing.com
Johann - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to luke384:

Luke

i forgot encantadas...

generacion limite 7b+
gros rouge 7b (to second chain), 7a+ (to first chain)
sara 7a+
redders 7a
dura vida la de un frekee 6c+ (i really enjoy this one but not everyone does)

j

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