/ Resin walls and spinning holds.

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br01wny - on 27 Nov 2012
Hi there.

I climb often at an indoor 'resin' wall and the holds are constsntly spinning. Has anyone else come accoross this or know of any solutions I can pass onto their management because they seem unaware of any solutions.....

Cheereo

mkean - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to br01wny:
In no particular order:
Driving in a screw next to the hold.
Cleaning the back of the hold.
Doing it up properly.
Bolting the hold up against a rubber anti-slip mat.
....
JoshOvki on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to br01wny:;

If the wall is reasonably old it could be a case of the t-nuts behind the wall breaking through the resin on the back and need replacing.
br01wny - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to mkean:
the option of screws is not possible as the wall cracks, but the rubber anti slip plate is a useful method. Do you know anything about this?
Oceanrower - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to br01wny: Not the solution, but probably the reason.

If by resin wall you mean featured wall i.e. bendcrete etc, then this is probably caused by the wall section being curved and the back of the hold being flat so only a small section of the hold is in contact with the wall.

Using smaller holds on the more curved areas should help them to "sit" better.
Max Clarke - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to br01wny: Our 'featured' resin-type wall has the same issue wherever the holds aren't placed totally flat to the surface of the wall.

If there's a bolt-hole close to a change in shape of the wall, even a small one, it means the holds can't be done up tightly enough without breaking them..

What we've done is work out which bolts are the persistent offenders, and take a file to the resin around those bolt-holes. Once the surface has been 'flattened out' the holds won't spin nearly as often.

This is pretty drastic though. You'll be lucky if the wall owners are happy about taking chunks out of their lovely expensive wall!
GeoffRadcliffe - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to br01wny: You could make small rubber pads from an old car inner-tube. Just cut them smaller than the hold and put a hole through the centre. Screw the hold into place with the rubber behind it and it will be a lot less likely to spin.
stuartholmes - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to br01wny: If you route set carfully there shouldnt be a problem. With the featured walls (bendcrete and dr mainly) there are a few occasions were some grips wont sit properly on certain parts of the wall. But you get great features aswell so try to incorparate these in to the routes.
winhill - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to br01wny:
> Hi there.
>
> I climb often at an indoor 'resin' wall and the holds are constsntly spinning.

Are you sure you're not on Total Wipeout?

muppetfilter - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to br01wny: How about useing cheap household mastic on the back of the hold ?

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