/ uiaa fall rating
I've also been doing a lot of 'practise' falling to try and get comfortable with whole falling thing because the primal fear of falling has definately been holding me back....So i've got fairly comfortable taking 20-30 footers. Going past a bolt and upto the next or getting to the lower off and getting a hand full of slack before jumping and this is feeling ok but it has got to shorten the lifespan of a rope and i'm just wondering how long before I should be replacing the rope used for this. The sheath is showing a little fuzziness and minor signs of melting. I've been using a mammut vertex.
You're a braver man than I am, Gunga Din!
Josi, UIAA 'falls' create a significant impact on the rope which a 'normal' whipper shouldn't. Having said that taking repeated falls on your rope will of course take it's toll. You need to think about the fall factors you are subjecting your rope to (i.e. the distance fallen divided by the amount of rope available to absorb the fall)- the closer you get to a fall factor 1 the more you are hurting your rope, and and all the other kit in the system (harnesses, quickdraws, bolts, spines etc.)
Having said that if you make careful visual and tactile inspections of your rope you should be able to monitor when your rope needs to be trimmed or binned. A rope that is still strong but has lost some of it's dynamic property will put extra strain on the other parts in the safety chain. Hope that makes sense.
You can look at that two ways.
The good news is that the test rope looked utterly trashed after around 100 test falls but still held loads and loads more falls. You will definitely get to the stage of binning your rope before there is any danger of breaking it in a normal, clean fall. [Obviously falls on worn badly krabs or over sharp rock are a completely different proposition.]
The bad news is that taking loads of practice falls without good dynamic belaying and/or adequately resting the rope could fairly quickly take a big chunk out of your rope's life span.
30ft is a big fall!
Your rope's probably fine but if you're not happy with it cut off the beat up ends or get a new one. Your call.
I've no idea how many falls my ropes have taken, some of them are into the hundreds for sure.
Wow that is a big fall...As long as you are checking your rope (and you know what you're looking for) then don't worry too much about the falls. You should be able to tell when the ropes getting knackered.
Elsewhere on the site
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
At a bar in Llanberis an old man chimed in And I thought he was out of his head Being a young man I just laughed it off When... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more