/ First climb/gully ideas ????????
Im looking for some ideas of exiting fun safe routes to find my feet,
ive got 12 point crampons and my trusty old scottish mountain technology walking axe and plenty rock gear, also have a mate who's keen,,just looking for some info for some quality fun routes,
oh ye im based in crieff area
For a first easy gully to solo you can't go wrong with broad gully in Stob coire nan Lochan. You get the benefit of seeing the coire, the cliffs and being part of the atmosphere in a busy climbing day up there.
For something harder and you are confident with your rope work (particulatly multi pitching) you could do NC Gully.
Avalanche Safety should be taken into consideration for many routes including Broad and NC Gully.
Grab a copy of the book "a chance in a million" about Scottish avalanches. It is essential reading :)
> Avalanche Safety should be taken into consideration for many routes including Broad and NC Gully.
> Grab a copy of the book "a chance in a million" about Scottish avalanches. It is essential reading :)
I would grab a chance in a million if you can.
Where are you based?
The Glen Coe routes Milesy suggests are probably a better choice for a first route than Central Gully on Ben Lui, as they are easier to protect
with rock gear. The grade I gullies in Coire an-t Sneachda would also be good choices in this respect. You could also consider some easy mixed routes as an alternative if gullies are not in good condition, such as Sron na Lairig in Glen Coe, or the E ridge of Beinn a' Chaorainn.
Sron na lairig seriously exposed in the upper reaches, I wonder if it could be pretty intimidating for a novice. Need a cool head for the walk along the narrow section near the top.
Dorsal arÍte usually figures in these debates if mixed routes are included. It's pretty straightforward goes in most conditions and the 'hard' bit is protectable and avoidable if needed. It may be popular, but for good reason.
True enough, though the narrow section is short, and since the OP is a rock climber and scrambler they might find it OK!
Yep, all depends what you're used to. And the actual climbing on it is pretty straightforward, in an amazing situation. A great route, some lovely photos of it on here too...
next weekend ill be out, will let you's know which route went for and how it was
Thanks again Fraser
roll on the winter its looking good out their, cold and snowy,, woop woop
Then finish the day doing the ridge, it will probably be icey enough for crampons and has some narrow bits you can practice walking on.
Do a few narrow/steeper ridges to get all the basic WInter hill skills then do some gullies.
It all depends on the condition of NC. If it is banked out you can get up it with a single axe no problem, but when leaner there is a few icy bits you might prefer two axes for.
I haven't had any problems with cornices myself on NC gully, but dont know if that is always the case as SC gully just a little further up can develop a monster cornice. My initial thoughts are that NC is less liable to the same overhanging cornices as it is quite narrow at the top and the angle would just lead to it banking out more.
I did Central Gully on Ben Lui last Monday (26th) and it was ok, but a bit thin in places. We had a little bit of slab avalanche in the gulley but nothing to worry about. The protection was virtually non existant for ice gear as turf was not reliably frozen under the snow, and rock protection is limited to smaller cracks (I only took a couple of mid range rocks and got 2 pieces in total). No cornice to speak of, though a week can be a long time so could be some now.
It's a great route and well worth doing when you are happy to climb it effectively solo, but probably not a good first route to lead or try without someone who is more experienced.
That can be a life time and it has been a lifetime as there has been a lot of change since last Monday.
> That can be a life time and it has been a lifetime as there has been a lot of change since last Monday.
I would suggest/hope that the info I provided would however be helpful for Count's planning. If he thinks not he is very welcome to ignore it.
I had a bit of a look at the snowpack on the ridge above glenmore lodge on thursday and it was a weak loose base layer with a hard packed layer then another weak loose layer then a hard, icy packed top layer. If the steeper slopes are similar then be careful.
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Make the most of this months HALF PRICE OFFER on the Five Ten Guide Tennie Mid!! Designed as a hybrid approach and... Read more
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more
The Christmas Gift Guide at Outside.co.uk Check out our top selection of Christmas Gift Ideas for climbers,... Read more
I am Matthew Phillips, I'm nearly 14 and I was born without my right arm below the elbow. I started climbing at taster... Read more
Halifax-based John Colton (see his UKC Gallery here) has an art exhibition in Courmayeur, Italy (the Italian side of Mont Blanc)... Read more