/ Is Pleaseley Vale (Peaks) currently climbable?

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hipyhop - on 29 Nov 2012
Hi All,

Does anyone know whether access to Pleasley Vale in the peaks (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1378) is currently restricted?

I'm looking to head out there tomorrow but I've read a few mixed reports of people being accused of trespassing.

Can anyone recommend any other decent crags near to Nottingham? We enjoyed Horseshoe Quarry earlier in the week but would ideally like to find somewhere a little closer...

Thanks

tom
climber34neil - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to hipyhop: hi, as far as I am aware there are no restrictions to pleasly vale, can't see how it would be trespassing as I think it is on a public footpath, only thing I can think of is that you are not supposed to approach/park at the business centre end do park near the little church and you should be fine
Offwidth - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to hipyhop:

Pleasley is cleaner this last two years than it has been for a while and a good crag in winter including the best low grade limestone trad routes in the wider peak distriot region (ie its in Chatsworth an old peak guide). Bold and scary from HVS. It can seep in places. Bouldering excellent for V0 to mid grade.

Trent Bridge is good and free as a practice area and there is lots of stuff in leicestershire. The Nottingham sandstone is soft and friable and banned: needs experienced climbers and risks major hassle.
Lukem6 - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to hipyhop: I've had no trouble climbing at Pleaseley Vale. Except for in the Peaks/Peak. Harborough's not to far, but closer is matlock area.

As far as I'm aware Pleaseley vale is easy to access, the only trespassing possible is if you go the wrong way. Its only 5 minutes from the car.
hipyhop - on 30 Nov 2012
Thanks for your responses.

We didn't end up checking it out today but may still pop up this weekend, Do you know if it's sport bolted?

Cheers
Gordon Stainforth - on 01 Dec 2012
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to hipyhop)
>
> Pleasley is cleaner this last two years than it has been for a while and a good crag in winter including the best low grade limestone trad routes in the wider peak distriot region (ie its in Chatsworth an old peak guide). Bold and scary from HVS. It can seep in places. Bouldering excellent for V0 to mid grade.

Was that HVS a typo? I can remember some very good little VS and sub-VS routes at the far left of the crag - so good that they felt like 'routes'.

In reply to hipyhop:
> Thanks for your responses.
>
> We didn't end up checking it out today but may still pop up this weekend, Do you know if it's sport bolted?
>
> Cheers

Yes, and no.


Chris
Offwidth - on 01 Dec 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:

'Yes and No'???

There are no bolts on the main crag nor should there be. I'd advise top roping hard stuff there until you are used to the rock as some of the the grades are very wrong in the Chatsworth guide and bold, scary routes with snappy rock can and do hurt someone onsight (so no Gordon it's not a typo).
Given this, if Rockfax are going to do a mini-guide (as you said they might) I sincerly hope you recheck everything that you put in.

Wolverine on these pages is writing it up for the BMC.
Offwidth - on 01 Dec 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Just to be clear there ARE a lot of routes here: 7 to 14m isn't a bouder problem in my book. My favorite limestone Mod is on this crag, some of the Diffs and VDffs are fab. However some rock on nearly every route needs care as some holds are snappy and some of the blocks risk blowing off (never ever use cams there on the edge of a block or on a flake), most lines can get vegetated and some get dirty as well (although most are cleanish at present). Also by VS you are hitting dirty sandbags in dangerous terrain (there is a HVD there like this though!). To add to the fun some bold top-outs have loose stuff.

Hence, Plesley just won't take the treatment that easier grit routes in the peak get. Lower grade leaders need to bare this in mind and drop a few grades. These are the reasons I just wouldn't recommend it at all for any inexperinced climbers or any outdoor groups. It's a super little bumbly venue though for routes and solos. Some kids groups do use the place but although the route choice I've seen them make is as sensible as it could be in the circumstances I still would'nt want to be in the group leaders shoes if a lump did come off and hit one of the children.

The bouldering there is excellent and pretty sound for all.
In reply to Offwidth:
>
>
> 'Yes and No'???

He said "Do you know if they are sport bolted"

I replied "Yes (I do) and No (they aren't)".


Chris
Offwidth - on 01 Dec 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Clear as mud ;-)
DerwentDiluted - on 01 Dec 2012
In reply to hipyhop:

I think Offwidth has pretty comprensively covered this, re trespassing, I spoke to the owners of the house a few years ago and they were fine with climbers, however they had the house for sale and the new owners may take a different view. That said they only had the plot by the house, not the footpath or the crag area. I've never had any problems but I haven't been there much recently and the its popularity has mushroomed in the last 2 years so previous tolerance my be stretched. Lets be careful not to collectively balls up access to another crag with litter and turd.
Lukem6 - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to hipyhop: P.s I did my first HVS here. Dirty Habit Corner... Which is a leaning grove more than a corner. not much gear but tons of fun. took a couple of falls before working it out.

Most people climb the Vdiff in the "corner" to the right. Reading Pleaseley based on route names isn't as straight forward as you might think
Offwidth - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

The crag is blighted by littering 'corner boys' (like Black Rocks and a few other peak venues) and climbers are known to help keep the place clean. As for turds its hard to beat the cattle!

Being Pleasly and bearing in mind the previous post some of the 'corner boys' may be too spaced out to realise what they are and won't want to lose face when they are in their own groove (ie they are best not tackled).

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