/ mixed routes in coire an t-sneachda

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nigel pearson - on 30 Nov 2012
Hi, I am heading up to cairngorms on sat and was wondering if anyone has information on the conditions of the mixed routes around grade 4 in the coire an t-sneachda. thanks
Andy Nisbet - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to nigel pearson:

Should be good, if a bit plastered. Might need digging. The rockier and more exposed the better. Fingers Ridge say.
nigel pearson - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
Thanks for the feedback. There was a lot of snow, with some of it becoming consolidated. We tried to do fingers ridge but had to abort as the team in front of us took the wrong line on the first pitch and then had to downclimb.

Went up red gully instead which was surprisingly good, although took quite a while to clean the rock to find any gear. Fantastic snow and ice formations and lovely weather on Sunday.
Ron Walker - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to nigel pearson:
> (In reply to Andy Nisbet)

> Went up red gully instead which was surprisingly good, although took quite a while to clean the rock to find any gear. Fantastic snow and ice formations and lovely weather on Sunday.

Very funny, I think!

Andy Nisbet - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to nigel pearson:

Folk often go wrong on Fingers' Ridge although the topo marks it clearly and the description does mention being close to Broken Gully. Folk often go up right up an obvious groove but it leads to a dead end (though it has been done in icy conditions). I know I tend to look at the book before I start the route and then not again, so I wonder if it might be worth saying in the bext guide, " don't go up the obvious groove!" That might stick in folks' memories.
Ron Walker - on 03 Dec 2012
2In reply to Andy Nisbet:

The start is not that obvious from the guidebook and is much much much further left from Red Gully - did I say much!.
I think mentioning "following the right edge of Broken Gully from the large belay ledge with the massive block" or traversing to the extreme left from Red Gully" or even "start just right of Broken Gully" might help!!
I often see folk taking the wrong line at the start and did this myself the first time I climbed it in winter!
Euge - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Ron Walker:
> 2In reply to Andy Nisbet:
>
> The start is not that obvious from the guidebook and is much much much further left from Red Gully - did I say much!.
> I think mentioning "following the right edge of Broken Gully from the large belay ledge with the massive block" or traversing to the extreme left from Red Gully" or even "start just right of Broken Gully" might help!!
> I often see folk taking the wrong line at the start and did this myself the first time I climbed it in winter!

I saw a team come a right cropper from starting in the wrong place... we were queued up behind when a grumpy old fella said "That's not the right place to start"...

I loved that grumpy old fella :o)

E
nigel pearson - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
yes, they went up the grove. Easily done I suppose, particularly given the amount of snow cover, but it was a bit frustrating as I was keen on trying the route. But after waiting for a while we thought it prudent to change our plans given the short hours of daylight and it was getting cold.
DannyC on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Ron Walker:

Confessions time :) The fool that went wrong way on Sat was yours truly...
In my defence, under serious volume of rime it's tricky to choose between two (not one) right facing corners to left of slabs a short way above the belay. Both looking similar grade, I took the right one which had a peg in it. After some steep moves, this leads to the dead end and a difficult retreat. Another time. Sorry to the guy who waited - it was a nippy day for queuing.

Was much easier following the semi-cleaned line of grooved rib (RH)on sunday, although someone seemed to have retreated from this too on sat the crux on sat so crux was still plastered. Very good route.

D.
Michael Gordon - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Ron Walker:

Isn't the first pitch just up the obvious leftward-slanting ramp?
Neil Adams - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
> (In reply to nigel pearson)
>
> Folk often go wrong on Fingers' Ridge although the topo marks it clearly and the description does mention being close to Broken Gully. Folk often go up right up an obvious groove but it leads to a dead end (though it has been done in icy conditions). I know I tend to look at the book before I start the route and then not again, so I wonder if it might be worth saying in the bext guide, " don't go up the obvious groove!" That might stick in folks' memories.

I remember making that mistake in summer, soloing in trainers having not really read the guide, when younger and stupider than I am now. (Well, younger anyway). Quite exciting.
nigel pearson - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to DannyC: That's ok, we had a good day, and the route will be their for me another time. The top pitches of FR looked amazing with all the plastered snow on them. I have a couple of photos of you and your mate on the route if you are interested.
nigel pearson - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Michael Gordon: I think the first bit (initial traverse)was obscured as it was totally banked out with snow.
DannyC on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to nigel pearson:

No bit we're talking about was second pitch for us. First involved fairly a fairly straightforward diagonal leftwards traverse over slabs.

Pictures would be great, thanks v much.(Even if just to rem where not to go!) It's daniel_cardenAThotmail.com
Andy Moles - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Neil Adams:
> I remember making that mistake in summer, soloing in trainers having not really read the guide, when younger and stupider than I am now.

Ha, snap. Though I'm still fairly young and stupid. Isn't there a peg in the groove? That doesn't really help.

DannyC on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Andy Moles:

Definitely a peg in the groove still. An eyecatching decoy!
Andy Nisbet - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Ron Walker:

It's difficult when the start varies according to the build-up. I have started near Red Gully or further left when lean. But the description does need rewriting. First time I did it in summer, I went somewhere more direct and scary, but since it was 1974, I can't tell you where.
Jamie B - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

I managed to send someone up that right-hand groove despite having done the route twice before! It's obviously easily done.
chrisprescott - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to nigel pearson: This is what Coire an Lochain looked like yesterday. Quite a plastering of snow at the moment!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=209722
Caspar - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to nigel pearson:

Conditons: if today was anything to go by, don't go there unless you have snow shoes. It took us 5 hours to walk (swim) in, climb 1 pitch before bailing and then swimming out.
ads.ukclimbing.com
paddy cave - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to nigel pearson: Some shots of the Corries over the weekend and monday on here

- http://www.mountaincircles.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/cairngorms-01-03-december.html
Ron Walker - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to DannyC:
> (In reply to Andy Moles)
>
> Definitely a peg in the groove still. An eyecatching decoy!

It might have been my old peg form my first winter ascent and retreat almost 30 years ago. If so I wouldn't trust it and I'm to blame - sorry!!!!
Ron Walker - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to paddy cave:

It looks like someone has gone up the middle on your photo at http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QpdwdsoJznU/UL0yS1OtKAI/AAAAAAAABMo/rxl3f7S02go/s1600/06-11-12+107.jpg
Andy Nisbet - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Ron Walker:

Only to the dead-end perhaps?
Elevator - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Ron Walker:
> (In reply to paddy cave)
>
> It looks like someone has gone up the middle on your photo at http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QpdwdsoJznU/UL0yS1OtKAI/AAAAAAAABMo/rxl3f7S02go/s1600/06-11-12+107.jpg

That will have been me and my mate on Thursday, although others might have followed the cleared rock on friday/saturday... After the second belay, we stepped up left into a small snow bay and then drifted gradually rightwards up the grooveline, past the peg and onto some much harder ground... We eventually ground to a halt at some bare slabs and traversed off to finish up Red Gully... Now have to go back and do it properly!!!
Erik B - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Ron Walker: Im sorry... but that photo is hilarious in the context of this thread.. :)
nigel pearson - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Erik B:
> (In reply to Ron Walker) Im sorry... but that photo is hilarious in the context of this thread.. :)

It looks like this photo was actually taken on Sunday. I think that is me and my mate doing red gully and the others on fingers ridge. very funny coincidence.
nigel pearson - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to DannyC: yhm

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