/ Drilling DMM Fly
I've heard similar tales of how tough the flys are. Think you'd need a really high carbon steel bit and a low speed, high torque drill press. Know anyone who has access to an engineering workshop to do it for you?
That said what are you using? I know nothing about your engineering skills so forgive me if I'm teaching you to suck eggs. Use a small drill to open a pilot (a little larger in diameter that the web at the tip of you final drill), keep the drilling speed down and use a cutting fluid, normal oil is better than nothing. Most importantly make sure the drill is sharped properly.
Use a centre punch to act as a centralising point for where your drilling, otherwise the drill bit will drift over the piece of steel
If you buy Tunston Carbide drill bits (they are gold in colour), they are harder than HSS (High Speed Steel) drill bits
I've used these kind of drill bits for drilling hardend and stainless steel
As previously advised use a drill on a slow speed and use a oil, or Tallow (lard) to act as a coolant
It maybe a good idea to step the size of the drill bit.
first of all 3mm, then 5mm, them 8mm upto the desired size
Little bit of info here:
Centre punch where you want to drill and use Tungston Carbide (the gold drill bits) as I said the other day.
I wasn't aware that the the tip was used on SDS drill bits?
( I only use SDS Drills on site)
However when drilling stainless steel cabinets on sites like for cable entries we always used Tungsten Carbide Drill bits. (which are the Gold drill bits as opposed to the Black or stainless coloured ones)
So long as you don't let the drill go to fast as so heated up the material and so Harden the metal being drilled you'll be ok.
to explain about the properties of drill bits you could refer to this page.
I have a set of cobalt steel drill bits (horrendously expensive!) that I bought several years ago for drilling marine grade stainless steel. They are excellent PROVIDED (as Richard has said) you keep the speed down and use some lubrication. I am fortunate to have a drill press, which undoubtedly makes the job easier. I also had occasion to drill stainless underwater, using an air drill, which was interesting, but I've never tried these bits on titanium (they will, reputedly drill Ti).
A good quality bit will make all the difference:
Sintered tungsten carbide bits are the mutts nuts, a sort of blueish silver colour very hard but brittle and pricey.
The gold coloured bits are just coated with titanium nitride which is very hard and reduces friction but wears away eventually and a thin coating is only as strong as the substrate anyway (HSS probably)
I am really surprised you are having so much trouble i wonder if it is actually rour drill that is the problem?
Not taking the mickey but are you running the drill the right way?
In the end i took it to the Engineering department at university and they did it in two seconds.
They used my cheap bosch drill bit nothing special just £2 from B+Q.
The man just had a very good old pillar drill, and said its all amount a slow constant speed and pressure, which you cannot get with a normal drill.
He also said the axe i had attempted to drill at home was hardened because i had compacted and heated the metal where i was trying to drill.
Hope that helps,
I didn't know that, but it would explain why my tile drill bit worked to drill the pilot hole for me.
To Milesy: this is the sort of bit I used: http://diydata.com/tool/drillbits/drillbits.php#tile - they're readily available from DIY & hardware shops.
A center punch, sharp cobalt drill a few drops of oil and nice steady pressure from a drill press should see you through unless the Flys are seriously tough.
I only have a plain single speed corded drill (with hammer turned off).
I could only get the Titanium ones near me. I need to balance all this cost off with just selling the things and getting new axes. I have already wasted 30 quid on drill bits, and then when I price in the potentially wasted grip rests and petrol and hassle I would have been as well just getting the new axes.
The hardened steel of a decent punch will be harder than what your axes are made of and you need something to stop your bit running off esp if you are not going to use a pillar drill or stand
Spinning good drills against tough metal too fast without enough pressure or cooling just softens and blunts the drill. It can also work harden the spot you're drilling. You need to use a drill press.
The tip of the punch will be much harder than your axe handle.
> I only have a plain single speed corded drill (with hammer turned off).
> I could only get the Titanium ones near me. I need to balance all this cost off with just selling the things and getting new axes. I have already wasted 30 quid on drill bits, and then when I price in the potentially wasted grip rests and petrol and hassle I would have been as well just getting the new axes.
I've not tried drilling Flys but on other metals I've tried the big difference wasn't the bit or the drill (I used hand held) but getting some cutting oil. I would've got paste but couldn't find any so ending up going to machine mart where it was about a tenner for a big bottle of oil.
After that it went fine, nothing to do with the bit or the speed of the drill.
A decent centre punch will stop you slipping, especially once it's oily.
The tips of the punches are seriously hard plus you are going to have a 2lb hammer behind it :-)
Just take it too a man at an engineering works, it will cost you a fiver at most,there's one on most industrial estates. Much cheaper than posh drill bits etc
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