/ Toix - Missing Routes
Has anyone done/knows the whereabouts of
1) Another Green Route F5 (may be out of one of my old guides?)
2) A New Route F4+ "Start at the left of the slab to a tree belay"
3) aluxuplala F6a
4) box of delights ** 5+
5) hasim F4+
6) La Senda de los Huesos F6b (5 pitches!)
7) Calamardo F7a+
I don't know this crag and the grades that are detailed are on the whole are to hard for me.
However I know that on Stanage for example have a great may traversing routes are no longer get listed in modern guide books, as a leader would climb across several routes. This is done to avoid problems with one party congesting five or six routes (or even more), these traversing routes are omited from the guidebook.
I hope this helps and good luck attempting to trackdown the lost routes.
The only important one I can think of is the Stanage High Neb Traverse at Severe (which was never that clear...some versions took you across The Dalesman at HVS)? What others??
Off the top of my head I'm not sure which routes have been omitted.
However casting my mind back to the old climbing Magazine "High"
there was an article titled "The traverse of Stanage Edge". As the name suggests it talked about linking routes and generally making the whole crag as a traverse. where there are breaks in the crag there is oviously walks between the outcrops. I can't remember when the article was published but it was proberly 1996-1997
It also discussed the now omitted routes as traverse routes along Stanage edge and it detailed lots of routes that had fallen along the wasteside.
Looks like they might be on Stanage, then, Chris :-(
I saw this one in Buis last week.
> Looks like they might be on Stanage, then, Chris :-(
Indeed! When I start to rewrite Eastern Grit and have questions about Stanage's esoteric traverses I must remember to ask about the Toix cliffs at Calpe :-(
Calamardo is my route Chris...!
Oh, and I've done La Senda de los Huesos (in fact I spotted the line of Calamardo when doing it).
The latter is a traverse from the right hand end (looking in) of the ledge beneath the old fisherman's ladder (Magical Mystery Tour sector), to arrive at the left hand end of Pirates of the Carribean sector, at the half height belays.
If you want to include these routes, email me a topo and I'll add the lines. But be warned, Calamardo was climbed ground up and is what the locals call a "clean climb" (and therefore of possibly limited interest to the average holidaymaker).
Thanks for that Neil, I noticed you name in the Log Book and would have got in touch. So which is the traverse, where is the 'other' and are they both trad?
OK - I have sussed that Hueso is a five pitch traverse and the other is a 7a+ on trad gear. Is the traverse bolted - I suspect not?
That one is in, as are most of the others.
Really, "any day" in November or December?
Now you'd have me there except that if I could get away for a week or two's holiday I'd be in the US desert at Red Rocks or Joshua Tree (where Im off next Thursday) which in TV terms would be a critically acclaimed HBO mini-series. Even if I was in the Alicante area I'd be seeking out longer routes (ie watching evening ITV over daytime ITV).
> Now you'd have me there except that if I could get away for a week or two's holiday I'd be in the US desert at Red Rocks or Joshua Tree (where Im off next Thursday) which in TV terms would be a critically acclaimed HBO mini-series. Even if I was in the Alicante area I'd be seeking out longer routes (ie watching evening ITV over daytime ITV).
Nice to have the choice!
We don't have a TV in Kalymnos, and even if we did, I wouldn't watch it. life's too short.
I work hard for the choice and want my monies worth out of holidays. Kalymnos (etc) is your job.
I also love a good TV show: life's never too short to make time for good art and even lesser art can be a welcome distraction when you need to wind down.
> OK - I have sussed that Huesos is a five pitch traverse and the other is a 7a+ on trad gear. Is the traverse bolted - I suspect not?
La Senda de los Huesos is a mixed route, though there are a few bolts on the (few) tricky bits. Most of it is relatively easy shuffling but with superb rock architecture and situations.
Pitch 4 is the best. It follows the upper diagonal break running across the overhanging wall in the background of this shot:-
There is a line of 3 bolts on that break, but that is the only 'clip-up' section in 5 pitches. The hardest pitch is only 6b, so it should be well within the capabilities of many Blanca visitors.
Calamardo starts from the belay at the start of La Senda de los Huesos, is all trad and was climbed on sight. The protection is excellent. P1 is 6c and follows a superb flake and wild hanging groove, exiting where the sunlight is catching on this shot:-
P2 is somewhat harder, and still has a rest point to eliminate...
The rock is absolutely perfect on this route.
Let me know what you think of them!
Cheers Neil, they looks great, I'll pass the info over to AJ to see if there is space - it is getting late!
PS What are you doing taking a Trad Rack to the Blanca - strange?
I must admit that looks brilliant. What is it in UK currency?
La Senda de los Huesos (the traverse) - E1 perhaps?
Calamardo - E4...?
Hard to say, really. I don't have a UK trad-grading head on when I'm climbing in Spain!
Another Green Route is on page 43 of Your Costa Blanca Climbs 1990 at Toix West.
Elsewhere on the site
The Grivel A&D Ascender & Descender is brand new for Autumn 2014 and incorporates a revolutionary and innovative patented... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
This survey is being conducted by the Outdoor Industries Association in order to find out more about how and why people... Read more
From a personal point of view, photographing the night sky is one of the most difficult, frustrating yet ultimately rewarding... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more