/ Southern Highlands Turf Question...
Started up the first pitch and got about halfway up the corner but it turned out the turf was pretty shit. Now it wasn't really unfrozen it was more like really dry with no substance to it. Is that the norm?
Most of my climbing is done on the east and I've never come across turf like this. Anyway, pulled off a chunk (not a vital chunk!) decided it was a bad idea and headed down.
I don't know the crag at all but it looks a natural enough line that water would trickle down and freeze in the turf but it didn't appear to have done that.
The only reason I'm asking is that I'm now not sure when would be the best time to catch it in nick. After a big dump has thawed a bit and seeped in?
Any locals want to part with some knowledge?
It was the same on the Buachaille this morning - dry and powdery.
+1. Although more importantly. Was P3 ice formed?
Yeah there was ice on the top pitch.
Sounds like "normal" turf, Im guessing it must have just been too dry before it froze. It was weird, even dodgy turf gives some resistance. This stuff was like a rice crispy!
Swings and roundabouts I guess. Think we'll stick to a safer bet tomorrow.
Cheers , Mark.
> Sounds like "normal" turf, Im guessing it must have just been too dry before it froze. It was weird, even dodgy turf gives some resistance. This stuff was like a rice crispy!
Perhaps not proper turf but that reedy stuff you get in the Southern Highlands. No matter how hard you hit it of how well frozen it is axes rip through.
When I did this back in 97', I remember climbing moss on the left wall and the crack/groove up to the roof on P1. The roof had ice beneath it, before hand traversing left.
I think this route sees many ascents these days, we had 3 runners up to this roof, perhaps the crack is cleaner now??
I would say a long, cold, dry period, less snow the better. Much ice formation on Ben Udlaidh, could be a good indicator. P3 (when iced) is visible from the road, so is False Rumour Gully IV,4, a great wee route.
Cloudy weather too.
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