/ Orange Spot Lower Wye List
Might compile a Swanage one too, watch this space.
Feel free to abuse my selections a bit of debate is always healthy - as I've not done every route on any of the lists I'm open to persuasion.
Something to keep us mid grade punters occupied anyway - perhaps I should stop writing lists and get on with ticking e numbers instead!
L:inks to Portland & Cheddar lists:
More likely there is universal boredom with my list obsession!
I've gone for 20 Trad (hard to narrow down) 15 Sport (hard to identify many really impressive mid grade Sports lines) and 5 DWS to give a flavour of Swanage's other facet - these are mostly guesswork. Any alternative suggestions welcomed.
What sport grades does the orange spot band cover? I have to admit that I think that some of your sport choices are not really worthy of a 'best-of' list. New age, New stye? Really? It's a scrappy, boring little route. Having looked at what you have to choose from though, I'm not sure that Swanage sport is really at it's best until you get to the higher grades. Perhaps it would be a better reflection of the area to only include 10 sport routes and more trad routes?
I have climbed 38 of the list, this may be a clue as to how "orange spot" I think Donald is (after all the Conger trad grade is E1). The other is Zircon, I have a suspicion it is hard for orange as well.
I did trawl guidebooks for stars and UKC/Rockfax for user feedback and selected the mid grade Sports lines that appeared to have the best feedback, but it is a pretty shallow pool to select from.
If people want to suggest additional Trad routes and/or Sports routes to leave off the list. Perhaps a final format of 30 Trad, 5 Sport and 5 DWS would be more appropriate.
I've just looked at my logbook, and of the lower grade routes I've done at Swanage I think I would remove Moves for the Masses, New Age New style, Mackerel and All Fall Down - none of them are anything to write home about.
I'd leave Ammonitemare (but only because it might be the best lower grade route at Hedbury, rather than because it is actually very good), Date with a Frog, and Stone Mason.
I've not done several of the others at Dancing Ledge, so it is possible that the others are better than Date with a Frog. I've not climbed much at Winspit, so I can't comment on most of these routes, but Stone Mason was definitely a good route. I have to admit that at Hedbury, I've always liked Goddam Sexual Tryanosaurus, but think that is mostly due to the name.
Date with a Frog has quite good moves but is polished which detracts from the pleasure.
Perhaps I am a bit down on it as I held a massive inverted fall that ended up with me (the belayer) sat on the floor, eye-to-eye with my climbing partner - he'd gone too high under the roof and fell as he was moving left. Thinking about it more, the moves are quite satisfying. I guess the major issue is that none of the easier Swanage sport routes are actually that memorable in the grand scheme of things, and the stars accurately reflect that.
Fair enough. It's been a few years since I last did it. I suspect that one of the other 6a/+ routes on that piece of wall might be as good/better.
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