/ NEWS: Major New Route for Bracey and Helliker

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UKC News - on 03 Dec 2012
Matt Eyeing up the Pitch, ready for some tricky footless M6, 3 kbOn the 20th of November British Alpinists Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker added a major new line to the north east face of Mont Grouvetta, Mont Blanc range, Italy.

Eyes Wide Shut tackles the NE face of Mont Rouge de Grouvetta and weighs in at 900m, ED1, M6, AO, UIAA IV+.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67650

Damo on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Great stuff, well done.

Just out of interest, were they tipped-off by this thread? http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=522720
Luca Signorelli - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Great route on a beautiful and little know mountain!
Jon Bracey - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Damo:
We were not tipped-off by this thread. Corecrazion was been on the list of routes to go and do for a long while, but a tricky one to get good conditions on the face and the approach.... It's funny how some quality routes go un-repeated for years for no apparent reason.
jon on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Jon Bracey:
> (In reply to Damo)
> It's funny how some quality routes go un-repeated for years for no apparent reason.

Twenty something years in the case of Corcrazion... I'm sure most folks have never heard of it!

Ramblin dave - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Looks amazing! Good effort!

> Eyes Wide Shut tackles the NE face of Mont Rouge de Grouvetta and weighs in at 900m, ED1, M6, AO, UIAA IV+.

Is that with or without a bouldering mat?
Luca Signorelli - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Jon Bracey)
> [...]
>
> Twenty something years in the case of Corcrazion... I'm sure most folks have never heard of it!

Coracrazion has become a forgotten item of climbing lore as a lot of fine routes on the italian side, but in its specific case the reason may be the very nasty reputation the NF of Greuvettaz has. The original Boccalatte route has seen a staggering number of climbing deaths vs. an handful of repeats (its statistics make Eiger look positively safe!). The Mroz 1973 route on the left has been repeated once (by Mark Miller) and I'm told he found the experience quite nasty. In mid 80s Ugo Manera and his friend Isidoro Meneghin tried to open a new route more or less parallel to Coracrazion. Ugo wrote a very graphic description of their eventual retreat, saying that if it wasn't for "Isi" being the best big wall climber Italiy had at the time (and a master of placing protection) they would had died there.

Other routes on this side of the MB are unrepeated not because of any inherent danger, but simply because they're rarely in condition, or with.complicate approaches, or simply because they're in unfashionable spots and nobody will get any kudos for climbing there (except from me or Lindsay Griffin! ;))
jon on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Luca Signorelli:

I remember Mark telling me he thought it was the hardest thing he'd ever done. At the time John and Mark were a real force to be reckoned with in the alps. I can't however remember in which year they climbed it, other than it must have been sometime mid 80s? Do you know of any repeats, Luca?
jon on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to jon:

Ha, I've just answered that by reading the article again! 1986.
Jon Bracey - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to jon:
Word on the street is that it's still unrepeated....
Luca Signorelli - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Jon Bracey:
> (In reply to jon)
> Word on the street is that it's still unrepeated....

Precisely. I'm aware (via the Dalmazzi log) that there's been a couple of attempts, but no repeat

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