/ Ben Lui - central gully
Just wondering if anyone's been near Ben Lui recently. I was thinking of having a cheeky wee solo on central gully weds/thurs, or would I be better off doing a circuit of the ridges?
Cheers in advance
I went past at the weekend, so can only comment on what I saw from a distance, and what I understand of our recent conditions - I would stick to the ridges for now. Not enough consolidation yet.
I think it says in one of my guidebooks that it's best avoided early and late in the season.
I'd stick to a ridge somewhere but it's your call.
Big dump of snow sunday night and during monday. I wouldn't go anywhere near it.
The circuit of the ridge is a very enjoyable outing in its own right--Grade I in places and pleasingly spiky.
Might check out the gully, but the ridges are definitely favorite at the mo.
No-ones saying wait for perfect conditions just wait till it looks half decent which it doesn't right now. That way you are less likely to waste a day going to see.
Evidence of avalanches below some of the Glencoe gullies today, and if anything there looked to be slightly more fresh snow in southern Highlands today. I'd say going to have a look at Central Gully would be pretty un-wise.
There is perfect conditions and there are stupid conditions. Ben Lui is a notorious avalanche black spot - read "chance in a million". I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole after heavy fresh snow fall and no consolidation.
Swum some of the way up West Gully on Beinn an Dothaidh on Saturday, there was absolutely no consolidation and it was no fun.
There is absolutely no point in doing any gully route right now. If you are lucky they will consist of deep powder overlying loose rubble and the going will be slow and tortuous. If you are unlucky, windslab will be forming and you may get avalanched and die.
Do a ridge.
Who forced a man with your vast experience up West Gully on Saturday?
We were looking for a route on the wall beyond Taxus. It wasn't dangerous, just unpleasant.
I could see evidence of slides underneath some of the gullies on Stob Coire nan Lochan, but I'm not sure about elsewhere. I'd certainly recommend against climbing any of the gullies in Glencoe for a little while, lots of fresh snow lying on top of a layer of largely unconsolidated older stuff.
As all have already said stick to the ridges, but if you head out when planned for central gully I dare say you will come across avalanche debris at the moment, enjoy your back up plan and climb safe
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
This years ROCfest will be slightly different. We've decided to run a Climbing Festival, not just a competition! Over... Read more
The Epicentre Mega Winter Sale starts in store 9am Christmas Eve. We have a great selection of in store only deals from... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
On Saturday 13th December Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson kicked off their Scottish winter season early by making the... Read more
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more