/ Where to go for good steep Ice Climbing?
If you could also suggest places to stay or camp it would be great.
Thank you very much for any information.
Cogne in Italy and Kandersteg in Switzerland are both incredible and should have reliable conditions at that time of year. I can recommend inexpensive accommodation at both venues if you like? Cogne would be a little cheaper than Kandersteg overall.
Not many brits, quieter than the alps and weather in the valley has always been glorious for me.
If you want to compare grades take ATLEAST one off the Scottish number to get the WI grade. ie grade Scottish IV would probably be WI2+ or WI3.
I'm climbing a similar grade to you, and have researched this a bit, cogne looks like one of the more reliable venues with a good number of routes throughout the grade scale. La garve is also a good option although perhaps a bit less reliable, I think the walkins tend to be shorter.
> If you want to compare grades take ATLEAST one off the Scottish number to get the WI grade. ie grade Scottish IV would probably be WI2+ or WI3.
I'm not sure comparing WI and Scottish grades is a sensible thing, even in a rough, vauge style like this.
Generally I've found WI is significantly more solid and confidence inspiring than the frozen stuff that Scotland produces. I'll happily potter up a WI 4 without to much of a leaky bladder, but I don't fancy having a stab at anything harder than a Scottish 4. I've also yet to come across an "out of condition" WI route despite several years of trying, whereas on a number of scottish 3s I've ended up doing moves outside of my technical competence and comfort zone because the route wasn't fully formed or "a bit thin"
To be clear I was only quoting what I've read, I've not done any WI routes, which I why I'm looking at Venues for intermediate ice in Europe for this winter.
I have previously lived in Scotland for about 6 years though. I guess living there I was spoilt as you can take the time off work when the conditions and weather are good, you also get a knack for predicting which venues are more likely to have the better conditions based on the current and previous weather. I've climbed my fair share of routes with great neve and fat ice.
I guess the comparison probably works best comparing good conditions and weather.
Get to Rjukan, there are roadside ice falls all the way up the valley
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