/ Need help choosing B3 boots.

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dougyt26 - on 06 Dec 2012
Need help choosing B3 boots, the boots will be used for gulys and riges as non of my climbing partners want to taken the expensive plunge in to winter climbing resulting in me doing an ice climbing coarse on my lonesome at the Ice Factor, thats not to say i dont want to work throw the grades. so i need something thats going to be good enough now but also later so i dont have to pay for a second pair later the boots iv been looking at are the Mammut Mamook Thermo, scarpa jorasses and phantom guide/ultra.

Im scared the mamooks will get wet the jorasses are to cold to get me to the top of the Ben and i cant tell the difference with the phantoms apart from ultra are cheaper. theres some grate tech in the mamook elastic and fold-down gaiter, Thinsulate™Ultra -200 and suport for your ankle and the lightest out of all of them i think.


arhhhhhhhh to many choises what happen to the days when all you had to do was pic up some La sportiva Evo extreme
CurlyStevo - on 06 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26:
Which fits you best? Those are the ones you should get.

The Jorasses will be plenty warm enough. I have the freneys and have not had a problem with warmth (the Jorasses are the new version of this boot)
davidbeynon - on 06 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26: Get the ones that fit.

Any other policy will just result in pain, suffering and failure.
angry pirate - on 06 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26:
^^^^ what they said.
Don't buy boots online. My first two pairs of winter boots were the ones I liked best from the brochures rather than what fit. Both were expensive mistakes.
Get fitted at a shop then buy from them too. You may find them cheaper online but the shop price will include the fitting and advice that you need
Climber 1981 on 06 Dec 2012
In reply to angry pirate:
Yes get the ones which fit you best. Go to a reputable shop and try several models. Take your time and listen to the advice. If you don't trust the advice you get go to another shop and try again. Use of a foot measuring device and a ramp/incline board are a good sign they might know what they are doing.


Here are some general things to consider:

Boots with a leather upper tend to be more durable and more reliably waterproof in the long term. Boots with a fabric upper are usually lighter and not necessarily any less warm.

Lighter is nice but bear in mind that in order to make a boot lighter a manufacturer must sacrifice warmth, support, durability or all of the above.

An insulated single layer B3 will do for Scottish winter, summer alpine 4000m peaks and cascade ice climbing.


cannichoutdoors - on 06 Dec 2012
In reply to Climber 1981: Obvious I know, but no-one has said it so far...La Sportiva Nepal.
Snoweider - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26:
I've got the ordinary mammoks, Not sure what you mean by get wet, but assuming that you mean leak, never had a problem, and don't expect to.

I'm wearing the soles out quite nicely on the Arran granite though which is looking expensive in the long run.

In the end, buy the ones that fit- I'll accept soles wearing out on the mamooks, because they fit me out of the box. In the end its fit fit fit fit fit.

Have you tried any of these on? The Scarpa and the Mammut are totally diferent shapes, so you'll prob find one works for you and not the others. Don't know about the phantom Guide/ultra.
KellyKettle - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26: Go to a shop that has experienced staff and a good range of boots... Try all the ones that suit your foot shape and intended uses.
Buy the pair that fits best.
CurlyStevo - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to Snoweider:
you can probably get them resoled for about 50 quid.
Milesy - on 07 Dec 2012
I couldn't find a pair that fitted me. La Sportiva, Asolo, Scarpa all no go on my feet. I eventually drove from Glasgow to Ambleside to get a pair of Millet Alpnist GTX - fit like a glove. Now after 2 seasons of breaking in they are so so comfy.
withey - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26:

As above: Fit


FYI, difference between Phantom Ultra and Phantom Guide:

Phantom Guide says this on www.Scarpa.co.uk

"The layered upper is features PRIMALOFT® insulation and a felt layer, guaranteeing warmth, and breathability." Ultra is not as insulated.
ti.williams - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26:

This review explains the differences between the ultra and the guide:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/scarpa-phantom-ultra-and-scarpa-phantom.html
drsdave - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26:
well there is a really good reason as to why you've heard of nepals, why people still remember them and why theyre still sold, a bit like a golf Mk2, a bit dated and not as fast or most hansome as some hot hatches out there BUT they work and will not let you down, loads of tactile feed back and you get value for your money - thing is do they fit???
dougyt26 - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to dougyt26: thanks for all the help its grate that climbers have this facility to go to. Just to let very one know that i have gone for the scarpa phantom ultra i did not have much of a choice because of the short fat stub foot that i have. No one stocks sizes 39 or 40 that i hover around i managed to find one shop online that had scarpas in my size after going in every shop in Newcastle and Ambleside and having no luck. The online shop just happen to be local and had a sister company that had a small camping shop in Newcastle, and was kind enough to let me try on ultra and guide even though they don't stock them in shop.

The ultra is so easy to walk in and light fits like a glove looking at a few reviews in comparison to the guide the ultra are just as warm and drys faster but like every other review has mentioned the flex on the toe is a bit disconcerting iv tried B2 that's stiffer than the ultra but i must say they don't flex to much and when i throw a set of petzl linxs one there super stiff. I have pics to up load when i learn how and i picked up a set of BD fushion tools.

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