/ UKC fit club 299

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Daniel Heath - on 09 Dec 2012
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (298) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=529517
Posters:
IainRUK – Amazing achievement. I enjoyed reading the article. Are you now fully recovered?
Eagle River – Good to hear you put that 7c to bed.
Pebbles – Get well soon!
NMN – Wow that’s a very strong pace, well done!
Grubes – Some big plans then! Wishing you all the best as you live them out.
Joughton – Some good sessions. Shame about 3 consecutive rest days.
Curious – Glad the finger is fixed.
Mrchewey - No doubt you will be stronger after 3 sessions even if you don’t have markers for progress. Good work on the run!
Deacondeacon – 3 campus sessions is pretty good going, looking forward to hear of more improvements in a few weeks.
Exile – Warming up is the hardest part of training this time of year! Good week there.
SeanKenny – Good bouldering day. Hope your shoulder improves.
Mattrm – Random exercise is good. Though I expect you could do a few more than 15 pushups?
Biscuit – Sorry to hear work is so restrictive. Putting your efforts into a controlled diet is a good solution.
Sankey – The run can definitely have an effect if you’re not used it.
AJM – I often share that temptation to boulder if there are new problems at the wall. At least you were climbing outside!
Si_dH – Still impressed with the amount of fingerboarding you get done. Frustrating day outside but still good training benefit I’m sure.
Maria85 – Busy week, and clearly planning your week worked out well. I’m now considering using that method to control diet.
Jimmykay – what I have come to accept as the norm from you now – fewer sessions but no weak ones!
Nomics4Sale – Others have offered good advice. Rest is important, but have a look at what Si_dH manages to fit in every week. A lot can be done with care.
Ian Bell – Glad you tied into a harness, and got climbing outdoors
Rollo – Good week, and the weekend sounds like a big experience!
Ali – Don’t you love it when your core hurts from sport climbing. Well done with the progress.
Ally Smith – Strong and varied week.
Oddtoast – Leading 6as, not bad for someone who’s been climbing less than a year.
Kevster – Hope you get more done
Annak – Who you’re climbing with definitely has a massive effect on your performance/improvement. Sometimes it makes you try that bit harder.
Richard popp – Some good activity there. Great to see you getting into some effective training again. 
Kevster - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan,
Christmas glutony has started this week. Managed to do some exercise though.

Tues: Indoors, silly foot pop on the hard reds. Otherwise climbed it well.
Fri: Went for a run, calves ached the next day, but less than before.

Made a few plans to get on the 7c sport routes over winter. If it'll happen before xmas is time/weather dependant. would finish the year off to tick one.
Otherwise - try to climb twice this week. And get the hard reds ticked finally.

Cheers Kev
JimmyKay - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Morning,

2 indoor sessions again this week. Pretty heavy piss up on Friday night though which, depressingly, probably cost me about as much as a trip to El Chorro.

Just over 2 weeks till Rodellar.... amazing. Going to try and get a rope on this week as I haven't tied in since Turkey.

M-Nothing
T-Boulders down Brummie Boulder centre. Now managed 3 laps of the circuit board. Best so far. It's a crimpy and narrow circuit, not sure how much this is going to help me in Spain... Although it feels good to climb until I can't feel anything below my elbows. Surely that's doing something good?
W-Nothing
T-Nothing
F- Boulder Central. I was a bit crap here really. The moves were all really big and burly and it seems to have been something I've been lacking of late. I've got good core and strength (can still 147) but found the big explosion moves at this centre quite hard. Although this could also be as a result of a long hard week at school. Piss up in the evening.
S-Recovery
S-Nothing planned. Too much work to do!

Quite looking forward to the two competitions over the next two weekends. Brummie Boulder Centre have theirs this week - which sounds like a few british stars will be down competing. Followed by Boulder Central's Christmas Eve Eve party the week after. This will be 3 days before Spain! Wahey. Psyched!!!
Ally Smith on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Strength seems to have come back much quicker than fitness after a month off. Also struggling to find partners to complete specific sessions my coach has set.

Anyone out there want to do 10min continuous aero-cap or 4x4 route sessions at Awesome Walls (Liverpool or Stockport) or Warrington?

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT

STG (end Dec 2012)
- Stick to the plan...
- Get back in the groove quickly enough to make the most of Turkish trip at New Year - Freedom is a Battle 8a+ in Antalya.
- Avoid Christmas gluttony to make previous a reality

M - Work gym; pull-up session as per the plan. God i'm crap at pull-ups! Keep working the weaknesses. Elbow's slightly sore.
T - AWL boulders and 1st go at continuous aero-cap session. The NW really needs a good circuits board. Please someone install something?
W - Sport massage on ankle; masseur now recommends getting a scan as it's been 7months and i've still got swelling and impinged movement. Back to GP next week :-(
T - Stockport boulders and routes. 8x 7a ish but not the 4x4 i hoped to coplete. Elbows slightly sore again.
F - Mild gym session. 2k row 7:48.
S - Roaches boulders up to v9. Great session of team psyche and beta. Chuffed with doing Tetris. Then massive & boozy meal out with friends.
S - Just watched wideboyz movie and decided to get stuck into some core exercises. It's drying p outside, so might get out on bike.

5 sessions planned for coming week; hope elbows don't explode on me!
Exile - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thaanks Dan.

Thanks Dan - got it wired so not too bad

Goals:

Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)

Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5 outside?
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)

Goals for next spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Weeks training:

Mon: 50min fell run
Tues: 2hrs 30 bouldering Kendal Wall. all but one of the V4 - 6 circuit, (think it was a bit soft grade wise!)
Wed: 1hr road run
Thurs: Rest
Fri: 40 minutes dry tooling - didn't push it as wanted to be fresh for the weekend.
Sat: Second ascent of Bowstring on Bowfell buttress, VI 6**. 11hrs 15min out.
Sun: Rest

Great day on Saturday. Weather got worse through the day and the route had a lot of snow on it to clear. Very pleased to be climbing this grade this early in the season. I think picking the right VI 7 on a benign day should go well.
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan.

Work is not all bad, i'm lucky enough to have a job i love doing and had a brilliant 9 days at different crags every day with nice people. Although i rarely climb anything hard with work ( i led some 6a's and a 6a+ but most of it is in the 4/5 region) i am always climbing something everyday so i don't get stale.

And yes taking healthy packed lunches is a great way of trimming up. Lot's of fruit and homemade soups did the trick. Down to 13% now :0) I see you've got on top of yours as well. Nice one.

Last weeks targets

Get a 7b ( wouldn't mind getting back on Annak ) - FAIL
2 board sessions - DONE 3
1 max hang session - FAIL
3 x core - FAIL
3 x run - DONE


M - work
T - work
W - couple of sets of 60/20s on board to shake off the lethargy and 30 min run.
T - Climbing @ Marbella
F - 3 sets of 60/20's on board 30 min run
S - Rest
S - Just had roast dinner and off for a couple of hours walking the dog. Will do 30 min run and 3 x 60/20's later.

Although i didn't do any core or max hangs ( couldn't summon up the botherdness tbh ) i went on the board once more than planned and got rid of some flab.

Thursday was a brilliant day out, new area, new crag, new routes in the sun. Decided on on-sighting rather than working 1 route to make the most of all the new routes.It doesn't get better than that. Bit of an issue looking for lost puppies tramping up and down hills in 25 degree heat wasn't much fun but finally started climbing about midday. The day went like this:

6b - flash
6c+ - onsight
6b+ - flash
6c - OS fail
6c+ - flash on top rope
6b+ - on sight
6b+ - on sight
6c+ - flash

A good haul. I top roped the 6c+ after seeing Silvi really struggle on the crux moves. Turns out that it was due to her bad leg ( she can't push through her right leg ) and being 5ft2in. I cruised it and was disappointed not to have lead it. Stiff grades on some of the routes and the 6b and 6b+'s were not pushovers. I think it highlighted a weakness i have been avoiding for a while. The routes were 20m long but all had a bouldery crux. I am not very strong at all at the moment.

Great weather is here now and some friends staying at the OB so off to see them on Tuesday. They're here for the season so crushing will start this week.

This weeks targets:

BF below 13.5% average
board x 2
boulder x1 - going to go back to El Torcalito.
routes x 1 - 7b MUST go down in a day.
Run x 3
grubes - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Grubes – Some big plans then! Wishing you all the best as you live them out.
Cheers

STG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
LTG (End of 2013):
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Top out the chief
boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Lead E3 try onsight.
7b
7A
E3/4

This Weeks Goals:
Wall one night - Tick
Get outside at the weekend Tick

M: Rest
T: Depot 3 hours (sort of) on my own. Really fingery session.
W: Rest Fingers not good
T: Rest Fingers started feeling really tweaky. Spent all day squeezing the hell out of stress ball fingers felt better for it.
F: Rest
S: Almscliff bouldering. Almscliff definitely won. Lost half a finger nail on the first problem lost all my knuckles. Good progress on flying arκte (next session). worked the crucifix traverse good work out. Tired and hard session. Tried gypsy but feels too powerful at the minute. Lots of progress no new ticks.
S: Rest

Next Weeks goals:
Indoors during the week outside at the weekend.

The stress ball did wonders. I got the idea from something Jimmy kay said on here a while ago.
mrchewy - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan - yey, 3 sessions a week should help the strength nicely.

Xmas is here and the diet went to pot this weekend, along with some comfort eating after a stomach bug early in the week. 81kg this morning :-(

Mon - Boulder room (4th day in a row)and really happy with the session. Felt lethargic but kept plugging away and felt like I made some good progress on the roof problem.
Tues - Pressups, core and lunges. Starting to get strong obliques. Hidden by fat but they are there. A first!
Wed - Boulder room. Tough, Had been ill for over 24hrs and felt right weak but thought it would help my fingers. Not a lot done really.
Thur - Pressups and squats.
Fri - First roof problem EVER! Get in, V3 to boot. Tried a lot of other stuff first without finishing anything and wasn't going to bother with the roof. Nailed it first go, feet came off halfway but calmly got them up again and completed.
Sat - work and xmas dinner at friends. Too much food but didn't drink alcohol, so taking that as a win.
Sun - Routes - Woke up with sore lower lat, slept funny I think. Lapped a F4 after warming up but still sore, then ran up a F3 a few times whilst someone was learning to belay, soreness wasn't easing and decided to sack of climbing. Gutted as was looking forward to doing some leading for a change.

Was proper revved after doing the roof V3, everyone says it's solid at the grade. The tricky V3 on the 30deg panel is still beating me but finger grip is feeling as good as I've ever had. Got loads to work on still however but gonna have to rest the shoulder/back up I think for a few days. Never been sore on my back before and don't wanna mess up work before xmas.

Leading that 6b on the comp wall looks miles away but I'm making gains elsewhere, that's all that matters.
Curious Yellow - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Mon - Fingerboard. Max hangs.
Tues - Biscuit Factory. Good session, 16x green (V3-5).
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Rest. Bit of a cold. Bailed on a laps session.
Fri - Fingerboad. Max hangs.
Sat - Cuttings. Back on Hall of Mirrors. Trashed myself but unable to repeat links from last weekend. Never mind, great to be out in the sun this time of year.
Sun - Castle. Hurting from yesterday. Did the easier comp problems, drank tea.
Si dH - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan. Not quite so much finger-boarding this week actually, due to combination of low skin levels and having two days out planned at the weekend.

STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [so far: 2 Ft 7a]

MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March

LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- tick F7c in Ceuse
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013

Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)

This week:

M: did a decent core session while re-growing skin after last Sunday
T: bouldering at Depot. First trip there - liked it but the traffic was a nightmare. About 1.5 hours - did 15-20 of the reds (V3-5) and 4-5 of the yellows (V4-7). Was still struggling a bit with thin skin and had to leave to avoid destroying any more. Decent session although never really got properly tired.
W: Nothing. Shattered after work and couldn't motivate myself to go in the cellar, which is freezing in winter.
T: Fingerboarding. Good session, a few sets of chin-ups, then 5-6 sets of front 3 and back 3 repeaters, some more chin-ups and press-ups (just to keep warm while I rested my fingers) then some max hangs on various pocket combinations. After about 45 minutes down there in a t-shirt, jumper and down jacket I was just about warm enough!
F: Rest / too much to drink
S: Bouldering at Curbar. Really nice day. Performance felt mixed and a bit disappointing at the time but in retrospect was pretty good. After a brief warm-up got on Gorilla Warfare again after last week's efforts working it. Got it first go without too much trouble - almost felt like an anti-climax. Then went up to the far end just past Moon Buttress. Did a 6b+ and a couple of 6cs fairly easily (flash/2nd go/3rd go I think) and spent some time working two 7a+s, Cloud Cuckoo Land and Downhill Gardener. Got close on both but especially Downhill Gardener - I fell off once after doing all the hard moves and did the crux probably 10 times. Really annoyed with myself at the time. The starting moves were quite powerful on the shoulders and I just got a bit beat up at the end of the day, but because I'd been so close kept trying for too long, and went through 3 tips. Ouch! Need to head back up there for both of those, and Art of Japan.
S: Bouldering at Robin Hood's Stride. Had three fingers taped up and the conditions were bit mixed, it was windy and showery, disappointing given the weather forecast. Did a bit of messing about on easy slabs and tried Jerry's Arete (Ft 7a) a few times. It has a powerful and shouldery move to get a high right foot that I need to be properly warmed up for - and wasn't.

More skin recovery the next couple of days. It isn't lasting too well at them moment! I'm hoping it'll be well enough for a wall trip on Tuesday.

Si
AJM - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

cheers Dan...

Bit of a jumble of a week this week. Starting back at work, combined with some work stuff Thursday eve, a Saturday in London and a hospital visiting trip to Eastbourne today has kicked the volume a bit below what I'd have liked, but unlike in my lethargic week a fortnight back the sessions I did get in I've been pleased with the progress in.

So anyway:
Tuesday I did a short fingerboard session, primarily a pullup test.
5 minutes of doing a set on-the-30sec of pullups. Got about 38 I think. Totally blasts my arms and back which given I feel that's an area of improvement can't harm.
Wednesday - wall session. Bunch of routes to warm up. Then an aeropower set - 4.9x 6c+ with approx 1 min rests. I used to find that 4 at my onsight grade with about 90sec rests was a good level on this, so nice to feel that with the shortened rests that I'm still performing close to that. Tried to do the same on a 7a but was a bit knackered, got up it about 1.5x, something to maybe do first next time rather than right at the end.
FFriday - wall. Warmed up then had 6 redpoints on my board project, surprisingly good very pleased - 19, 20, 15, 15, 20 and then early last go. Had been expecting to be doing 15 at best! Then moved onto foot on campus, doing sets with 30s rests - 50, 40, 40, 40 moves roughly. Finished off with another 5 min pullup set, 44 this time.

Still on route home from Eastbourne, but hopefully some more pullup/repeater stuff when I get home.
annak on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

The difference in climbing partner really confuses and infuriates me - surely I have my grades and abilities, and they should be invariant. But they SO aren't.

M: 10km run - less than 2 weeks until the 10km in Richmond Park. Right ankle giving me a lot of grief though. Oddly running on it doesn't seem to make it worse, it's the bits in between when it hurts. Cycle commute 7 miles.

Tu: Leading at Castle. Either I was all over the place or the grades were. Genuinely not sure which. Stormed some 6bs, and then couldn't finish a 5+. Not a bad session just... weird. Also cycled 14 miles.

W: Was going to run but ankle really complaining so went for a walk instead.

Th: Bouldering at Biscuit Factory. I was so cold from the walk there, and it wasn't that warm in there, that it took me ages to get going. But it came, eventually.

F: 30min run. Ankle sore but not quite as bad as before. Might have to revert from minimal shoes to stiffer shoes for a bit, to take the stress off it (although that makes me knees hurt instead...)

Sa: Monster session at the Castle. Was there all day, leading until we were knackered. In all honesty I should have done that length of session in a lower grade range than we did - when I started to get tired my climbing got really sloppy. Plus cycled there and back, 14 miles. And went to the gym afterwards. So tired!

Su: Rest day. Bit of a walk. Nice nap. Such a treat not to have to do anything.


This week - going to think a bit more carefully about my training plan. I had a plan a while ago but so many things have changed that I've gone back to my scattergun approach, which doesn't work terribly well.


Also - biscuit: "Get a 7b ( wouldn't mind getting back on Annak )"
Huh?
mattrm - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. I could probably do more pushups, but they make my shoulders click and hurt, when I do loads, so don't do many of them.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (lost a few lbs)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no climbing this week :( )
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, v3 @ wall, 12st 2lbs
MTG - Climb 6b @ wall, v4 @ wall, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 8lbs erk! 4 lbs gain!

M - 100 situps
T - 3k run, 17 mins
W - 1 hour bouldering
T - Gran's funeral
F - 100 situps
S - 60 squats, 15 pushups and lots of stretches
S - 3.63k run in 19 mins

Again a fair bit of misc exercise. I'm trying to hit 50% on the yearly stats. So the idea is lots of exercise, but in lots of small sessions. No plan to it at all other than to do something every day between now and the 31st. Actually got some bouldering in this week, which was a shock. Nice to do some climbing of some sort, even if its just at the wall. Weight hasn't been excellent, but have been eating crap for the week, so it's not surprising.

Next week, going to up the miles a bit running wise. Hope to get out climbing again. Will also try and hit the gym. Some social stuff next week as well. Also got the Hobbit to look forward to.
Si dH - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:
That's a pretty good week if you're back working full-time mate. How's the job?

I quite like the short chin-up bursts as it's a good way to feel really beasted really quickly, and like you say, it must be doing some good. Go for a Centurion once you done it a few more times (100 in 10 minutes) - I've managed it once but failed on 3 occasions...
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to annak:

> The difference in climbing partner really confuses and infuriates me - surely I have my grades and abilities, and they should be invariant. But they SO aren't.
>

It's very true. I just feel more comfortable with some partners than others. Some inspire me with their psyche, others i just feel dead safe to push it out with. New partners can make me nervous or make me push hard so i don't look a wimp. It makes a big difference so don't get frustrated about it.

> Also - biscuit: "Get a 7b ( wouldn't mind getting back on Annak )"
> Huh?

Merely a spelling mistake. I was referring to this:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=112582

So don't worry you're safe - unless you're around 7b ;0)

I get confused now with all this talk of the biscuit factory. No one consulted me over the name of the place.
pebbles - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Back in action but feeling frustratingly weak and wiped out. Got to the wall for a couple of sessions but very frustrating feeling exhausted after doing only what I would normally treat as warm up routes.
mon-antagonistic weights and stretches
tues-nowt
weds-core session and did 5 pullups
thurs - bouldering wall, 2hrs, very easy stuff then 1/2 hour doing short (20 move)6a circuits.
fri - nowt
sat - short climbing wall session. 8x 5+ a routes and I was exhausted!
sunday - nowt, still knackered from saturday

Last of fluishness going though, so hoping to be up for a proper bouldering session tomorrow - and maybe trying to get some early nights will help get back on form!
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:

It's cold outside so i think i'm going to stay indoors on my fingerboard tonight. I may have a go at this pull up test.

From what you describe you do a set of pull ups every 30 secs for 5 mins - am i right ?

So aim for 5 pull ups each set, 10 sets = the magic 50.

Be interesting to see how it goes. I will post the results later - it's all about the numbers.
AJM - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Going ok mate yeah. Suspect it will kick off a bit after the new year.

Yeah I like the short beasting of the pullups. I've considered mixing it up and alternating pullups, pressups and situps or something for the whole body workout that things like tufa often deliver. Given I've not hit a half centurion yet I might have a centuries as a longer term goal - maybe before France in May.

On that subject, am thinking I'll likely be in France first fortnight of May as I've got a wedding in Grenoble Mayday. Going to try and sort exact dates soon. Ceuse if weather allows but will be bringing the van so will be mobile in case it isn't.
AJM - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

that's it. On my beastmaker I've been alternating wide grips (edges) with narrow (slopers), definitely find the former harder work!
Si dH - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> that's it. On my beastmaker I've been alternating wide grips (edges) with narrow (slopers), definitely find the former harder work!

I'm that way around as well although I think some people find the wide edges easier. If anything it is easiest to mix it up if you are going for max numbers, as you alternative muscle groups slightly.
I do cheat when going for 100 and do the odd set on the jugs on my Simulator...
ads.ukclimbing.com
Daniel Heath - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

I'm going through a strange time myself.

M-Running to Uni and back, short bursts of 5-10min but gets quite hard after you've done a few already and cooled down.
. TCS some campussing to get a bit of power for wed

T-
W-Military bouldering league, Bristol.
Felt weaker due to all the endurance I've been doing, and placed 5th which is about right for how I felt.
T-
F-TCS new problems, did ok
S-
S-TCS 3 x 4 laps of 7a, good endurance work.


It's frustrating to be a bit weaker than I was when I used a woodie all year round. I really hope my endurance is going to transfer when I climb outside soon. I've almost forgotten what it feels like to climb outdoors. It feels like I've been quite sheltered at the same centre for 10 weeks.

The diet has been poor this term. Habitually eating well, then binging hard. This needs to stop, but I don't want to get up and fall down again. I think a daily plan might be the answer - something to think hard about over the holiday.

Maybe I need a change. A different activity all together. Something more intense (I can't call a 4x4 circuit a workout for my body). Watch this space as I try to mix up my life a bit.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. You're right, SidH and other fitclubbers manage to do a lot in a week, it's good inspiration.

STG: V6 at BoulderUK, 7b at a wall or outdoors, do some outdoor bouldering
MTG: 7b in Spain in March 2013
LTG: more E1s, look at E2 in Summer 2013

Mon: BoulderUK, flashed up to V4, ticked 1 V5. Didn't try any V6s.
Tues: beginner beastmaker repeater session. Did ok except I could only manage 3 three finger repeaters before failure and you're supposed to do 7.
Wed: 12 mile run/walk/snow trudge over Bow Fell. 1,145m ascent. My route followed part of the Langdale Horseshoe from ODG. Snowy and windy consequently very slow progress.
Thurs: Kendal wall. Still a bit weak from lack of climbing. Flashed up to 6c then had a go at 7a which didn't go too well.
Fri: nowt
Sat: Harrogate wall. Bit of bouldering then routes. Flashed up to 6c then had 2 toprope goes on a 7b which didn't feel too desperate. Will try to RP if I get back to Harrogate.
Sun am: 11mile, 600m ascent, trail run up ingleborough from Clapham. Very windy.
Sun pm: Beastmaker session as per Tues. Managed a few more three finger repeaters.

Getting back into climbing now and hopefully syking myself up for some good winter training. I'm a bit worried about my finger. It hurts a bit and is still swollen. I think it's permanent though so being sensible and everything I'll probably just ignore it.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for your advice and comments about fingerboarding last week, I'm going to persevere, see how it goes. Hope your pull up session goes well. Will look forward to reading how you do. My money's on the big 50!
annak on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Haha that makes more sense :)
Eagle River - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks dan.

Goal: 7c by April 2013

Mon: routes indoors. Ticked off the 7b+ I was trying last week but didn't get the 7b done before the wall was reset.

Wed: routes indoors. New routes at Stockport, tried two 7b's, focused on 1 but didn't get it done.

Sat: indoor bouldering at rock over. Felt pretty strong, ticked some v6's quickly but didn't find a v7 I could do.

Still ticking over. Think I'm going to book another coaching session for the new year as I've been doing the same thing for a year now and have seen some good progress but it'll be useful to know if I could be using my time better. There are loads of things I could be doing (fingerboard, core, aerowhatsits) but for me rest is really important so I don't know what to focus on.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Exile:

Grade VI 6! That's an awesome start to winter!!
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

You can't expect everything to peak at the same time unless you've properly periodised. You won't be firing on all cylinders bouldering wise whilst you're in an endurance phase.

I am much weaker than i was when i moved to Spain. No idea how much weaker as i've not bouldered for over a year. However i am climbing as well/better than ever before so it doesn't necessarily mean a disaster.

You have been targetting endurance for routes so keep the faith. It's very common in sport to start worrying and try something different just at the time when you actually need to keep your nose to the grind stone for a little while longer and then reap the rewards.

I suspect you may be feeling stagnant being at the same centre and doing the same stuff for a few weeks. You know where you're at better than me obviously but just saying it may be worth keeping the faith a little longer or make an effort to go elsewhere for a change.
Eagle River - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Just a thought on your indoor session at Kendal. If you want to climb routes in the 7s, why not try them straight after warming up rather than flashing lots of routes you can already do? If you treat the indoor session like an outdoor redpoint day you'll probably get those 7s much quicker and it normally feels to me like a more effective way to train.
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm waiting for the kids to go to bed and to let my roast dinner digest a bit more. I seriously ate too much 6 hrs ago but still feel slightly bilious :0( I packed in the veggies though so not all bad.

You've got to stick with stuff like fingerboarding but you should see some good quick gains initially which should give you the motivation.

I'm going to get back to mine this week i think i've got out of the habit of intense training and i need to bring some fingerboarding and bouldering in.
Daniel Heath - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks mate, you might be right.

I can't wait to have a reason to test myself in "real climbing". Maybe it will fall into place.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

Yeah I think you're right. I have thought that myself too. The only reason I keep to the same routine is force of habit. But yeah I can see it makes sense to try the harder route earlier on in the session. It will be a bit demoralising no doubt if the RP tick takes more than one session... I think you mentioned this before? If you keep your focus on the main prize over a few sessions then it keeps the short term lack of ticks in perspective..
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I will 2nd Eagle River. A proper flash/on-sight go at something will take it out of you.

Plus if you were on the main wall at Kendal i came back home a few months ago and went there and still couldn't get up it on anything over 6c despite having climbed 7b outside so don't fret.

As for fingers i have similar issues ( hurts a bit and sometimes is a bit swollen and never goes away ) and i work with it/round it. Not saying that's right for you but these things are manageable i believe.

3 finger repeaters feel very intense to start with. It's not something we're used to doing. Just think of the potential gains when you find a weakness :0)
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

There's only one way to find out !

Just remember it can take a while for gains made indoors to transfer outdoors as your climbing style has to adapt to the fact that it is stronger/fitter than before and can now do more. Your brain will still be used to your previous limits outdoors.
Nik Jennings - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I don't think it's only Eagle River that has mentioned this...
Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Sadly I can't use the height of the as my excuse, the 7a was on a short wall. I'm going to use lack of climbing fitness as my excuse instead. Works for me.

So i'll put that into practice this week, straight on a hard route after warming up. Cheers.

And glad to hear that ignoring sore fingers is a well established remedy. I won't feel so bad now :-)
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I manage it, not ignore it, but i don't stop using it ;0)
Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Nik Jennings:

Well no probably not but you know what they say about old dogs and new tricks (not that I'm an old dog). So I might have seen the light now.
Eagle River - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to Eagle River)
>
> It will be a bit demoralising no doubt if the RP tick takes more than one session... I think you mentioned this before?

You're talking to someone who has spent at least four weeks trying to tick an indoor route on more than one occasion.....

Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

Yeah but you got the 7c tick! That's worth four weeks!
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> that's it. On my beastmaker I've been alternating wide grips (edges) with narrow (slopers), definitely find the former harder work!

And the results are in....42.

Using the wide slots is harder than the slopers for me too. I alternated.

I got 6 sets done of 5 then had to drop down to 3 for the final 4.

Hard workm but for 5 mins a great quick blast.
NMN - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan, really surprised myself.
Struggled this week with loads of work to do, a couple of evenings working into the early hours and one of the little'uns was in a show every night, so quite pleased to have got ok miles in.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km. - Tick
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.


M - 3.32m treadmill, 1.9%.
T - nothing.
W – 6.01m trail run, 703ft.
T – 4.1m road run, 44ft.
F – 5.12m trail run, 640ft.
S - rest.
S - 9.94m road run, 226ft.

I need to sort my goals out for next year.
It is probably obvious but the 10k goal was brilliant to work towards because it was so specific and really well set at needing to work hard but being achievable.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

42 is pretty good! So close to 50...
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Close but still not 50 :0(

Going to work up to 50 and then see if i can crack the 100 - elbows willing.

As it's so quick there's no way i can say i've not got time to do anything so it's ideal for lazy days/days off.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

50 is nuts but 100 is insane! Won't take you long to get to 50. I might give it a go, start off aiming for 20.
Daniel Heath - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:
Not bad at all! I find one set a minute to be quite intense, let alone 2 sets
mrchewy - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: I can't even manage one set but you lads give me something to aim at, I'll say that!
AJM - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Dan, feeling frustrated is probably just par for the course - you're starting to work weaknesses which is always harder mentally because you have to play the long game rather than taking the short term rewards.

A couple of thoughts:

Make sure you keep the strength stuff ticking over anyway, partly as a reward and partly cos you need to

Pick an indoor goal to see progress against if you can't get outdoors - does your wall have say a 7c-8a set that you could spend a few sessions working on, could give you the feeling of the training being relevant that it sounds like you're currently struggling with.
AJM - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Race you to 50 then? ;)

Short sharp workout isn't it!

I'm going to stick at it the next few weeks - feels like it targets the back/shoulders where I seem to lack stamina_, seems like often I fall off without pumped arms but because another shoulder-intensive move into a high tufa sidepull is just too much for my shoulder/back/core chain to deal with...
biscuit - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:

You're on !

I just can't see it doing any harm really as long as my elbows stand up to it.

Much more specific than either just pull ups or things like type writers, which bugger up my elbows, i like the endurance side of it.
Daniel Heath - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:

There is a hard circuit that I could work but I'm not particularly inspired by a horizontal "route". I think laps of the 7a is the best use of time at my level.

My "treat" has been spending the odd session trying newly set boulder problems. I think it's hard to improve like this due to the lack of steep stuff. You're right that I should do more strength stuff for maintenance, so I think a phase of fingerboarding would be a good idea for a few weeks. Not now though, Christmas offers much more variety (thankfully).

Thanks
Ali - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan - it definitely makes you feel as though you've worked even if it is a bit uncomfortable...

So this week's goals were:

Don't party too much (got 2 work related xmas dos which could scupper a lot of plans so aim is not to stay out late or drink toooo much on either!)- TICK
1 x run - TICK
2 x climb - TICK
1 x gym (mix of cardio, weights and core)- FAIL
Fix bike brake cable so can start cycling into work again - FAIL

M - rest
T - Biscuit factory - good session on the Greens, managed 3 V5s I think. Short core session to finish
W - Intended to go to gym, but ended up staying late at work instead
T - Work xmas do - drank a bit more than intended but it finished fairly early so didn't feel too bad the next day
F - Supposed to go out again for drinks, but ended up working late again instead - boo to the working, but at least it helped with my 'don't party hard' target!
S - run, 35 mins - before breakfast so felt a bit slow and took me a while to get into it
S - Reach - 12 routes up to 6c and a short lived attempt top-roping a 7b to try the moves...gave up just before half way after pulling past several moves I don't think I'll ever have the power to do! Nails.

Really struggling to get stuff done at the moment - definitely not enough hours in the day, but not really sure how to resolve that! Other than sleep less, but if I get less than 7hrs for a week I get ill :-S

maria85 - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan.

This week wasn't quite as productive despite the planning. Last week's goals:

- 3x lunchtime/short runs -ONLY 2
- 3x bike to work -ONLY 2
- 2x wall sessions (maybe 3) -TICK (2)
- 2x core & fingerboard sessions (finally have a working fb again!) -ONLY 1
- Sat: long run? Weather looking rubbish right now. -FAIL
- Sun: climb, hangover dependent -TICK

M: Depot climbing. Got quite a few moves of some hard (for me) problems, didn't finish any new ones though. Didn't feel as productive as last week.
T: Lunchtime run, 4.7km, 93m height, 29 mins (slow).
W: Biked to and from work. Lunchtime ride also - 35 mins, 8.5km, 190m up (and down!)
T: Lunchtime run, freezing, just bumbled about on the Chevin for 20mins, no idea how far. Used new shoes just arrived - love them :)
Bingley wall in evening. Managed a few of the new comp probs up to no 12 or so, few new greens and a yellow! First yellow in there I've done (V4/5?), maybe 10th try, utilising an interesting knee... swear no one else does it that way :S Good fingerboard/campus board/core session after. Good day.
F: Nada, had too much to get done at lunchtime.
S: Failed at doing anything. oops. Running psyche precisely zero.
S: Sharp edge, Blencathra. ~4 hrs round trip. Bust the crampons out for the first time this season. Not as windy and cold as expected and nice to actually get something done.

Planning this week again, to the day. And will be stricter this time...

- 3x lunchtime runs
- Orienteering
- 2x fingerboard/core sessions
- 2x wall (1 boulder, 1 ropes)
- 2x bike to work (probably not 3 this week as have lots else to get done either side of work)
- Weekend mountains both days, climb/hike/ski.

Hoping to make biking home more fun with the delivery of a new super bright light (fingers crossed) tomorrow!

Hope everyone's had a good week, sorry no time to read your posts right now but will catch up later in the week.

Ali - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali: Oh forgot cycled to the wall today - only 7 miles round trip, but was freezing and I didn't want to! Good thing that there wasn't really any other option :)
Si dH - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
The depot has a bigger steep section than tcs and might be worth a visit if youve not been. Its v close to the towncentre. Why cant you get outside?

If you are short of partners at all and fancy some bouldering give me a shout, im out most weeks and there is often a good crowd of us.

Given the amount of stuff you got done this summer, just being in the wall is bound to get dull - stick with it.
Si dH - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali:
Hey Ali, I feel a bit like that sometimes too, but ive found sometimes what can be useful is some way of getting a quick blast in just to keep the motivation going and keep things ticking over as much as anything else, even if its not a proper training session. Eg doing a bunch of chinups for 5 mins in the morning, or some core exercises while watching tv...that sort of thing. The little bits add up. Wouldnt advise deliberately losing sleep!!
IainRUK - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks steady week

Mon rest flew to germany
Tue steady 3 mile run
wed steady 4 mile run fell smashed two teeth in.. road running is dangerous.. flew back drive to scotland
thurs rest - teeth re built
fri 7.5 mile road run
sat 10 mile trail run peak district
sun: 9.2 mile fell race, 2nd, pm: 6 mile fell run win hill


Felt good again today so feel fairly recovered.
Daniel Heath - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks

Yeah the depot sounds really good. Uni work has restricted me much more than before this term, and I don't have a car at Uni. Thanks for the offer to boulder. I'm itching to do routes though :P
Si dH - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Ali:
PS if you are home over xmas and fancy a trip to pex let me know, im going to try and fit a mat in the boot if I can and do a few hours there if we get good weather, im around from approx 22-27th I think but dont know when ill be free yet.
AJM - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

well, I've just done my Sunday evening set and hit 41, although some of those were slightly poor form-wise.

So my pbs for me to improve on are:
Home beastmaker: 41
Wall beastmaker: 44
oddtoast on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Ehup, folks. I had more of a sociable (and work-busy) week than a fit one. Fitting climbing around christmas obligations is already proving tricky.

M - nothing.
T - Counch to 5k Run.
W - nothing.
T - got pretty drunk at a series of social occasions.
F - mnrnghhg hungover... go through day at work just about then..
S - Sleep. Cured! Couch to 5k Run. Still doing the week 2 runs because I'm not doing it regularly enough to build up much stamina. Will do another tonight then maybe try a week 3 run later in the week.
S - Christmas shopping, wrapping, tree hugging etc.
Ian Bell - on 10 Dec 2012
Nothing too special to report from me.

Couple more boulder sessions and a bit of autobelay. Did manage a V3 & a V4 in the castle (although both slab). Would have got another V4 but it was a bit tweaky so stopped.

Weight up to 62.5kg which is good, only another 2.5kg to go and then I have to try and turn it into strength not fat! sure everyone who is trying to be healthy on this thread will love my reverse weight target ;-)

WW is getting re-set this week so some new problems to try which is good. Last full week of climbing before I'm off for Xmas so will see if i can get in 3 or 4 sessions.
Exile - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Thanks, I've not climbed the grade much before, and certainly not this early on or for a few years - so here's hoping for this season!
deacondeacon - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january)

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

Mon-Campus Session- works/ 20 mile cycle
Tue-Nothing
Wed-Trad at Lawrencefield up to VS
Thu-Campus session- Works
Fri- Leading down the foundry with a mate (nothing structured)
Sat-Nothing
Sun-Nothing

Quite a mellow week again with too many hurdles getting in the way. Campussing is still going well but only found time for two sessions.
Got the new bike but the roads were icy all week apart from the day I got out on it.
Trad was fun but not very successful. Walked to Lawrencefield which took 1.5 hours and when I got there it was really windy and just couldn't get warm.
Then had to go to London for a few days (until monday night) so all training and climbing went on hold).
Oh well campussing again tomorrow and am looking forward to it :)
Ali - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Si dH: Yeah, I think if I had a fingerboard I would get more done, especially if I could do it in front of the TV, but still not figured out how to hang one in this house!

I'm also around from the 22-27th - not sure what I'm doing but will stick boots and chalk bag in and keep in touch! Won't be able to bring pad up though as on the train :o(
Just Tintin - on 12 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Right, sorry, a bit late getting going as just got back from the Lakes. The past week does not look great, but this current week will be much better!

M: -
T: 5mile run
W: So almost there on the V4. Past crux and only sticking the top dyno left. Routes change on 15 Dec...better work quickly...
Th: 3mile run.
F: - (Too many carol services)
S: New Wall: Ambleside. Lovely mix of features and holds. Had a play. Onsighted a few 6bs.
S: 10k fell run Loughrigg Terrace/Grasmere. Beautiful. Scrambling around Stickle Tarn/Pavey Ark. Dusting of snow on the top.

Training is much easier in the Lakes...
JimmyKay - on 12 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

I'll be joining you guys on the beastmaker sessions in the New Year. Jan-March = Font training.
grubes - on 12 Dec 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:
Are you to font over easter again?
JimmyKay - on 12 Dec 2012
In reply to grubes:

It's tradition!
Nomics4sale - on 12 Dec 2012
In reply to Ting:
>
> S: New Wall: Ambleside. Lovely mix of features and holds. Had a play. Onsighted a few 6bs.
> S: 10k fell run Loughrigg Terrace/Grasmere. Beautiful. Scrambling around Stickle Tarn/Pavey Ark. Dusting of snow on the top.
>
> Training is much easier in the Lakes...

New wall in Ambleside?? What?? Where??

Sounds like a lovely run... I thought it would be too windy up there on sunday so went over to yorkshire instead. Pretty windy in yorkshire!


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