/ mini screwgates for leashes

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toolboxtim on 09 Dec 2012
I bought a double leash from grivel, but without the mini screwgates. Last year I tried it unsuccessfully with some cheapo keyring snapgates, but these kept getting pushed open when plunged into snow, coming loose etc - didn't really work.

Has anyone got any idea where you can get mini screwgates from, or any other clever tips for connecting leashes to axes?
nniff - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:

You can get carbine hooks (captive eye or plain) from a chandlers - they work well
wilkie14c - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:
Camp nanos are full strength mini crabs, you want full strength really with any climbing gear. They work well for me
thedatastream on 09 Dec 2012
Maillons?
thin bob on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:
maillions if load bearing (do 'em up with a spanner :-) ) or tape up the gates of snap-krabs?
Petzl attache krabs? (from memory, might not be that small)
The Ex-Engineer - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim: I've looked extensively and failed to find anything similar.

Outside of winter I've now used my Grivel mini-screwgates for loads of other things like attaching my guidebook holder to my harness and found them so useful that I could really do with a couple more of them.

However, I really wasn't completely convinced about their use with my axes so I've got some 3.5mm stainless steel maillons to try out for the coming season. My thinking was that since the connector will only need to be closed and opened once per day, a maillon could work. I'm going to give it a go and see how it works.
Sliabh1982 - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:

very handy post!
angry pirate - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:
I debated maillons but I like the convenience of being able to undo snapgates in the event of tangling my leashes round the rope, my leg, neck, poons etc.
I use some old wild country snapgate biners on mine.
wilkie14c - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to angry pirate:
Yes, full strength climbing crabs are the way IMO. The thing is I've found is that axes need to be clipped and unclipped many times during a climb. The top outs in gullies are often snow plods where the axes are used to plunge so you'll not want your springer clipped into the spike end so a quick and easy unclip is needed. Axes can be easily detatched so you can use the axe as protection - buried axes at a belay for example. I've also found that when arriving at a belay the easiest way to go about organising things is to unclip both axes and get them out of your way and clip the 2 ends of the springer together and pop them over your head out of the way. Screwgates or mailons will just complicate things but I see that some people find them to work for them.
Gazlynn - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:

I agree with Blanchie


Not very helpful but grivel changed the biners you got with the leashes a couple of years ago from snapgates to screwgates a bad move IMHO.

For a punter like me I would not be a fan of the screwgate option as I like to change to plunging on easier ground.

cheers

Gaz
neuromancer - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:

DMM phantoms could be a good shout?
CurlyStevo - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to Gazlynn:
> (In reply to toolboxtim)
>
> I agree with Blanchie
>
>
> Not very helpful but grivel changed the biners you got with the leashes a couple of years ago from snapgates to screwgates a bad move IMHO.
>
> For a punter like me I would not be a fan of the screwgate option as I like to change to plunging on easier ground.
>
> cheers
>
> Gaz

you don't have to do up the screws.
Jonay - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:

These are for sale usually beside the axes and other accessories in decent shops.

http://www.grivel.com/products/rock/carabiners/10-rotor

I know they are for sure in Cairngorm Mountain Sports in Aviemore.

Cairngorm Mountain Sports

111 Grampian Road

Aviemore

Highland PH22 1RH

Tel 01479 810 903

Fax 01479 810 971

email cairngorm@braemarmountainsports.com
Milesy - on 10 Dec 2012
I bough some regular clog screwgates for my double springer today. I'm happy knowing I can clip them at the axe if needed.
Mark F - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim:

I use Black Diamond Microns. They seem to be quite strong and the size is good for axes.

http://www.snowandrock.com/pws/UniqueProductKey.ice?ProductID=BLK012000
RichardP - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> However, I really wasn't completely convinced about their use with my axes so I've got some 3.5mm stainless steel maillons to try out for the coming season.

I was thinking exactly the same while reading this thread
Alex Slipchuk on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to toolboxtim: since i often like to back up a belay with my tools. I like whatever used to be load bearing and if not leaving enough room for a crab that is. Camp nanos with a petzl string or BD swivel leash.
andy_e on 10 Dec 2012
I've had these on my leashes for two seasons now, and they are very good quality (compared to cheap plastic accessory crabs). The spring strength of the gate is really good, good size for the axe, and if you have home made leashes, attach them with a barrel knot and they can't rotate.

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