[I do not own any pegs or hammers]
- Placing them, rarely acceptable.
- Re-placing existing ones in poor condition, generally acceptable.
Wasn't there originally a peg on the first pitch of The Mousetrap which made the traverse much safer? Has it ever been replaced? If not, shouldn't it be?
The problem is that the placement and removal of pegs damages the rock (no matter how careful you are). The other issue is that pegs will rust away quickly on sea cliffs. This two factors work against each other.
I'd agree that nailing up a route where there was oportunity to place other forms of protection was wrong, but I don't think anyone would really encourage that in this day and age.
I also happen to think "fixed" pegs are a worse alteration to the rock face than peg scars, the former is potentialky dangerous and clogs up the placement long after it's rusted out of usability; by contrast, peg scars will become usable with small bits of normal "clean" pro, eventually obiviating the need for further use of pegs.
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