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Topic - Caingorm Trip 10/12/12

lanc23 - on 11 Dec 2012
Right just to give you all some basic background: "we" are Adam Turner and James Kirkpatrick (me). Adam is an adventure loving mountaineering with accents of Kili, Toubkal and an alpine 4000m (had to back off others), and of course plenty in the UK. James got into the hills with his dad as a child backpacking but soon realised it was not for him. Without a passport he hasn't had any of the mountaineering experiences Adam's had abroad, but he's pretty much a self taught climber, has taken plenty of people out for their first time rock climbing (including his dad) and has completed about 60 leads (and never seconded a climb). No great grades though, only a failed attempted at Sundowner (E2 5a).

SO basically we decided to go ice climbing. Adam with solid British winter skills and a few hairy icy moments on Toubkal and me with...well...summer rock climbing experience and a lack of a passport. We felt this was a valid enough amount of experience to give ice climbing ago so we booked the trip and started accumulating gear. Fast forward 6 months and lose a fair amount of money and we're here. Sitting in Glenmore Lodge awaiting "tomorrow". We have no avalanche forecast until Thursday which is worrying us, but after keeping a very close eye on the weather over the last few days, the avalanche forecasts for this weekend, and my copy of "A chance in a million" we're happy to go out. Although we're going to stick to non avalanche prone slopes just to be sure. We've also decided that we won't attempt to go near the Lochain's until we have an avalanche forecast so we're hopeful we'll get one in time. We're also not doing an ice climb tomorrow because apparently I have to learn to "walk" before I can climb. We're going for a walk up Cairngorm, and a bit of a play with ice axe arrests, snow bollards and buried axe belays. While testing out a borrowed Mountain Equipment Bastion jacket too.

Adam writes about his trips: http://community.cotswoldoutdoor.com/users/adam_turner/blogs/
James writes "stories":
http://community.cotswoldoutdoor.com/users/james-k/blogs/2012/6/29/old-man-of-hoy/
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