/ Hooded Wiregates - Gear or Rope End?
My brain says gear, as the wires of wallnuts are much more likely to get snagged than a 9.8mm diameter rope.
I agree but I've found some hooded wire gates don't easily fit through the eyelets on smaller wires. Just something to consider.
I thought that part of the reason for hooded gates was so that the gate didn't rub on the rock and partially open. Therefore, I'd suggest the rope end.
By hooded here, I mean fully shrouded like a WC helium - even a Wild Wire has a hood to some extent.
Everything being equally, definitely gear end, but it depends a bit on what krabs are you considering.
For example, WC Heliums are superb for the gear end of draws but DMM Shields can be problematic as the nose can be too wide to clip some pitons and older bolt hangers.
Engineer - I had originally considered something like a phantom, but I had a few phantom draws and really struggled with them in my ice gloves.
They would certainly be my first choice for Scottish Winter use, although for Summer Alpine use I'd be more than happy with any of DMM Phantoms, Petzl Ange S, BD Oz or WC Astro.
> although for Summer Alpine use I'd be more than happy with Petzl Ange S
Have you used them? They are rubbish. They're not going to break, but they don't handle anywhere near as nicely as your other suggestions. A lot of money too.
For my money:
If you want one krab to rule them all: Sport, Winter, Trad. The WC Helium is the best around.
If you want a super light set for hard trad route the DMM Phantom is superb.
>The WC Helium is the best around.
Might be worth noting if there are any recent converts to the lovely Heliums reading this that Wild Country has had to recall some recent batches due to some error in their making. Clear info on the recall on the Wild Country website.
>error in their making
>dmm make heliums
Surely you aren't suggesting anything deliberately sinister...
As it happens, the DMM Alpha wiregates are a rather nice alternative to the Heliums
My fingers always slip on them from to the sloped edge.
Either way, non-recalled heliums be good!
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