/ Hooded Wiregates - Gear or Rope End?

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neuromancer - on 13 Dec 2012
If you were trying to make up some alpine draws on the roughly cheap, which end is it most important to have a hooded wiregate on?

My brain says gear, as the wires of wallnuts are much more likely to get snagged than a 9.8mm diameter rope.
Dave 88 - on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to neuromancer:

I agree but I've found some hooded wire gates don't easily fit through the eyelets on smaller wires. Just something to consider.
Monk - on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to neuromancer:

I thought that part of the reason for hooded gates was so that the gate didn't rub on the rock and partially open. Therefore, I'd suggest the rope end.
DANNYdjb on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to Monk: rope end always. never had a problem
neuromancer - on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to neuromancer:

By hooded here, I mean fully shrouded like a WC helium - even a Wild Wire has a hood to some extent.
The Ex-Engineer - on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to neuromancer: For 'alpine draws' I'd say neither, I'd be much more concerned about overall weight.

Everything being equally, definitely gear end, but it depends a bit on what krabs are you considering.

For example, WC Heliums are superb for the gear end of draws but DMM Shields can be problematic as the nose can be too wide to clip some pitons and older bolt hangers.
neuromancer - on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Engineer - I had originally considered something like a phantom, but I had a few phantom draws and really struggled with them in my ice gloves.
The Ex-Engineer - on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to neuromancer: I have to admit I'm still a big, big fan of WC Heliums, they are expensive but I still think they are about the best all-round karabiner available.

They would certainly be my first choice for Scottish Winter use, although for Summer Alpine use I'd be more than happy with any of DMM Phantoms, Petzl Ange S, BD Oz or WC Astro.
Captain Gear - on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
>
> although for Summer Alpine use I'd be more than happy with Petzl Ange S

Have you used them? They are rubbish. They're not going to break, but they don't handle anywhere near as nicely as your other suggestions. A lot of money too.

For my money:

If you want one krab to rule them all: Sport, Winter, Trad. The WC Helium is the best around.

If you want a super light set for hard trad route the DMM Phantom is superb.
kyaizawa - on 13 Dec 2012
In reply to neuromancer: Hooded gear end definitely, for the reason you mentioned. I use Mammut Bionics (DMM Shield equivalent) gear end and WC Xenons rope end.
In reply to Captain Gear:

>The WC Helium is the best around.

Might be worth noting if there are any recent converts to the lovely Heliums reading this that Wild Country has had to recall some recent batches due to some error in their making. Clear info on the recall on the Wild Country website.
neuromancer - on 14 Dec 2012
In reply to TobyA:

>error in their making


>dmm make heliums


>.>
nufkin - on 14 Dec 2012
In reply to neuromancer:
> (In reply to TobyA)
>
> dmm make heliums

Surely you aren't suggesting anything deliberately sinister...




As it happens, the DMM Alpha wiregates are a rather nice alternative to the Heliums
neuromancer - on 14 Dec 2012
In reply to nufkin:

My fingers always slip on them from to the sloped edge.

Either way, non-recalled heliums be good!

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