/ Leashes

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Roberttaylor - on 14 Dec 2012
Who here uses leashes and why?

I've never climbed with leashes before (other then the ones between my axe and harness). I was round a friends flat recently and tried hanging from two straight handled axes without leashes and slipped off straight away. I then tried with leashes and was able to hang one handed for ages.

When do you find leashes beneficial? I can imagine on steep ice they might be pretty good (caveat, I've never climbed steep ice)

R
sdawson1 - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to Roberttaylor: Not sure this is a wind up as no-one has responded since Friday when you first posted.

You answer your own question really. Useful for releasing gripped hands and allowing blood to recirculate somewhat.
Jamie B - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to Roberttaylor:

Leashes are neccessary for climbing steeper ground with straight-handled axes. With modern ergonomic axes your hands are not going to slide off.

I don't see any advantages of wrist-leashes. Perhaps when you are getting pumped they might allow you to hold on for longer, but equally perhaps that pump could have been allayed by the greater ease of shaking-out that leashless climbing allows.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

> I don't see any advantages of wrist-leashes. Perhaps when you are getting pumped they might allow you to hold on for longer, but equally perhaps that pump could have been allayed by the greater ease of shaking-out that leashless climbing allows.

Can't speak for anyone else but not true for me. I climb steep ice more easily and more confidently with wrist loops. For me there is a very specific point where the advantages of leashless become outweighed by the increased difficulty of hanging on without wrist loops, and that's 85-90 degrees I reckon. I thinking about this yesterday morning when soloing and shunting laps on little local icefalls. At 70 -75 degrees when I can get most of my weight on my feet, I prefer leashless, although soloing I tend to put a harness on so I can clip my springer-leashes to it. If there are steeper bits than that, even just a body length of vertical, I prefer to have my wrist loops on. As I have vipers with android leashes I can change between the two for each pitch. I second just about everything leashless though.

I think though I just don't have very strong hands. All my hardest routes in summer have been cracks, I'm definitely happier hanging from a solid hand or fist jam than I am from even a perfect jug. I feel climbing with wrist loops gives me a similar feel to crack climbing in winter.
Roberttaylor - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to TobyA: thanks, this has confirmed what I was
thinking.
Ronbo - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Roberttaylor:

I think there is an advantage on ice in using leashes. On easy ground I go leashless, but on the short steep sections I clip the leashes in and use them to take the weight. I think on minus 1, minus 2 and coming out the cave on vanishing gully they were particularly useful.

As I only use the leashes for short sections there is no faff and I can very easily remove them for placing gear.

I don't have particularly good grip strength, and I use old style quarks on ice.

Mixed I would go leashless.

Ron

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.