/ UKC fit club 300
In that time Biscuit has established his lifesyle in Spain. Andy has been consistently writing the most comprehensive post with several different target categories, Si_dH now finds E2 a walk in the park.
Worth giving Jake Oughton a mention, who one week just decided that he was going to climb E5, then did one, and a few others pretty quickly.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (299) thread:
Kevster Hope the weather improves for you before the end of the year
JimmyKay Im psyched for you, but also incredibly jealous.
Ally Smith Great effort on Tetris. Hope you find ways to rehab your elbow.
Exile Good week, and its good to hear of someone doing some winter climbing now, and at a strong level!
Biscuit Good that you managed to climb for yourself for a day! Well done on 6c+s.
Grubes Id love to go to Almscliffe, though it does sound brutal.
Mcrchewey Good to know Im not the only one who comfort eats like a champion when Im slightly under the weather. Congrats on first V3/Roof/Flash! Great work
Curious Yellow Busy week despite being a bit less than you planned. Hope the fingerboarding pays off.
Si_dH So Gorilla Warfare feels easy now huh? :P nice work
AJM Some useful training, well done
Annak Good and varied week. Take care of your ankle and good luck in the race.
Mattrm - I like the idea of something every day. Hope you manage it even on 25th, 26th!
Pebbles Theres only so much you can do when you feel rubbish. Hope you feel better now.
Nomics4Sale It takes a while to tailor the beastmaker session to your ability. (eg 6/4 rather than 7/3 seconds.) Great week there.
Eagle River Well done on 7b+. Coaching session would be quite timely after a year as you say.
NMN That was a well set goal. Not a bad week again. Looking forward to seeing what targets you set yourself for the new year.
Ali Much better to sleep enough and not get ill!
Maria85 Careful not to make your week plan unachievable. Good to see another person doing winter stuff!
IainRUK Man, thats not good news. At least it only cost you one rest day. Well done on the race.
Oddtoast Im happy that youre still doing C25K despite hangovers/other business. Discipline is most important in these early stages.
IanBell Id love to be as low as 62.5 kg :P no well done. Good luck in achieving 65kg of muscle.
Deacondeacon Well done with the campussing
Ting Good to see you again, stay with it :P Three runs isnt bad.
Thanks Daniel, this thread really makes me get out when I don't feel like it as I'd hate to post a blank week :)
STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january)
MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)
LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)
Tue-Bouldering at Plantation/ Soloing at Popular end
Wed-Routes at Stanage Popular
Fri-Routes at Foundry
Gave the campussing a rest this week as I'm feeling rough and thought i'd just get injured. Bouldered up to 6C and routes up to HVS so nothing hard but was good to get out in the unseasonably mild weather.
I'm feeling like crap now and have been lying on the sofa all weekend, but i'm happy that I still got out and reckon I'll be fine to get back up to 7A in January.
Going to Cornwall after christmas which will be good to climb on something other than grit.
No outside climbing, though indoors was OK. Finally did the hard reds clean, as frequently found, it was easy when it went and at no point did I feel I was about to come off. So I now need a reset for a new hard route to play on. Or start climbing elsewhere more often.
Given that I haven't been climbing as often or as dedicatedly as I probably require to advance physically, I still seem to be climbing OK. Which is good, but I guess xmas will tell when I get on some Chorro long routes.
This coming week: Climb indoors twice, and if the opportunity for outside presents it's self - take it!
STG - sport 7c
MTG - Get on sport 8a, trad E4 & keep head in with the low E's.
Ill this week unfortunately :(
T-cycled slowly to TCS and tried two new circuits. warmed into it and ended up climbing ~50 new V3-5s
F-still low on energy
S-Feeling better. First time at The Depot Notts. Some big roofs and then getting pumped silly on the circuit board - tried the hardest 7b circuit in the world :P. So refreshing to climb somewhere steep with different holds and moves.
S-6x 250m hill sprints. Hard
Now implemented a diet plan - just in as much as I write down what I'm going to eat the next day, so I have no choice but to stick to what I planned. This avoids relying on my hunger-induced decisions.
Injured shoulder needed resting, still a bit sore this morning but eating more protein should help. Noticed I'd hardly had any this past week. Nothing done training wise as work has been busy, accounts needed doing too and the sore shoulder needed rest. Done a fair bit of core work and pressups mind.
Advice needed. Chatting to Eric (mono pullup man), he thinks I should be climbing harder than I do but when I said I couldn't do one pullup, he thought I meant a one-armer - I can't do any with two arms again now. Managed a few the other week with great effort.
Methinks this is probably holding me back but am I better just keeping climbing and hope my arms catch up? My finger strength is not so bad I guess, I can hang around under the roof on a straight arm, it's the pulling up were I'm weak. Even when I played rugby, I could lift big fat blokes above my head in the line-out but couldn't do a pullup to save my life.
So what to do?
Add to that lots of close arm press ups yesterday.
This morning wide arm press ups 40,30,20,10.
> Methinks this is probably holding me back but am I better just keeping climbing and hope my arms catch up? My finger strength is not so bad I guess, I can hang around under the roof on a straight arm, it's the pulling up were I'm weak. Even when I played rugby, I could lift big fat blokes above my head in the line-out but couldn't do a pullup to save my life.
> So what to do?
Hard to say. Pull ups are good, but the most relevant thing you could do is climb more steep stuff.
Someone posted on a thread recently, doing pull ups with your feet in front of you on a chair - simulates the body position on overhanging terrain. It's slightly easier but more specific. Worth doing if you're motivated.
Cheers; Tetris was an unexpected tick.
Big week of training ticked this week; similar volume planned this week, then taper for Turkey.
Still looking for NW partners for sme big aero-cap sessions. Anyone keen?
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT
STG (end Dec 2012)
- Stick to the plan...
- Get back in the groove quickly enough to make the most of Turkish trip at New Year - Freedom is a Battle 8a+ in Antalya. Seen a video with kneebar inverted rest. More static core exercises needed!
- Avoid Christmas gluttony to make previous a reality
S - 10mile circuit of canal towpaths on MTB, 4x10min 7a traverses, core.
M - Beastmaker pull-up session as per the plan. Much easier than work gym. Lots of core/antagonists too.
T - Rest and elbow eccentrics rehab
W - Hangar - bouldering upto v7. Then aero-cap traversing; very hard to get intensity right.
T - Stockport routes. 15x upto 7a+. Both elbows started aching, but finished session.
F - Barely able to get out of bed with fatigue. Works xmas meal was a big effort. Went home sober at 5:30pm and watched Downton DVDs; middle age has arrived!
S - Xmas shopping then Beastmaker pull-up session. Core/antagonists too. Pub/take-out. Much more fun than works do!
6 sessions planned for coming week; still tweaking some of the sessions and listening to body to avoid elbow aches and pains
Me? I think Quiddity took that crown when he was posting personally, but thanks ;)
Three good sessions this week. Given its nearly Christmas and the start of a taper should be upon me that's not too bad. I managed to sidetrack most of the gluttony too - party on Tuesday but I only found out mid afternoon so was driving, hence was limited to a plate or so of finger food and a pint and a half, and a Thai meal, a pint and a third of a bottle of wine on Thursday...
Monday - Warehouse. Started off with 3 goes on the boulder traverse, getting to about hold 25 each time. Progress! Then had a roped session - a few warm ups, a 7a (decided I didn't like it enough to lap it), a 7b onsight attempt (got to about 2/3 height) then had a redpoint, fell on the hard moves over the roof. Then dogged the bottom section of an 8a - nails! Then got onto the 6c+ for some laps - first 3 clean, then foot slip on the last move of lap 4, then fell from last move on lap 5, about half way on lap 6. Progress over the previous time!
Wednesday - Warehouse boulder session. Onto the boulder project - got to hold 26 twice, then tickled hold 27 on my third go, then hit the last hold (28) by the skin of my teeth fourth go! Hell yeah! Then some foot on campus - 20 seconds ish rest, 50, 50, 40, 30 move sets. Then a 5 minute pullup test - 47. Pushing nearer to the magic 50!
Sunday - Warehouse boulder session. Tweaked a move in the middle of the project to make it harder and stuck a few moves on the end. First go managed a miraculous push through to move 29, then had a memory blank go 2 and fell off about hold 22 or so, then 3 more goes to around the hold 25 point. Then foot on campus again, same rest period, 50, 50, 45, 38 move sets. Finished off with a 5 minute pullup test - 49!!!
Good week. Got hopefully a session Monday and Tuesday, and Friday too. Turkey soon!
m: 10 mile road run
t: eve: 5 mile fell run foel lus then 6 mile road run around llanberis
w: 4 mile trail run. 5.5 mile road run eve,
f: 7 hills urban night race. 12.5 miles on the road.
f: lunch: 5 mile run on kinder. pm: 6 mile road run
s: am: 11.5 mile road run. pm: 3.1 mile road run.
s: Rab MMM, 17.5 miles, 1500m ascent.
A fabulous week for me!
M: ran 3.7 miles in 28:20; cycled 6 miles
Tu: walked to work; leading @ Westway- not too brutal a session, partner wasn't feeling too great so we both took it quite easy and ended up having more fun than normal.
W: ran 3.7 miles in 30:20 - slower time presumably cos of climbing the night before. Cycled 10 miles.
Th: bouldering @ Biscuit Factory. I realised that I've been getting too hung up on grades and being frustrated with myself on off days, to the point of which I've started to spoil climbing for myself. Today I kicked back and relaxed into it all again, enjoying the simple act of climbing again. Have to remember to keep it fun!
F: gym - benchpress, overhead press, skullcrushers, squats, reverse lunge, calf raises, weighted sidebends, abs.
Sa: rest day in anticipation of Sunday. Which is so hard - about every ten minutes I thought, ooh I could go for a run/climb... oh no I can't. Boo.
Su: Richmond Park 10km - 50:22! A new PB! Really chuffed. I hurt quite a lot right now and I ran the last km so fast I thought I might be sick, but I wasn't. Am going to wear my medal all day.
Week ahead: Stay fit and uninjured in the run up to my exciting break, consisting of visiting my mum in Spain and, ahem, getting some sport climbing in (we figure if we pop out early each morning and get home for lunch she might not notice), then up to Aviemore for New Year (fingers crossed for cold weather). And remember to keep having fun!
Cheers Dan. Although E2 is definitely not usually a 'walk in the park' :) I'm psyched to get on more trad in 2013 and push myself on gear a bit more often than the last couple of years, so maybe in a year's time it will :)
STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [so far: 3 Ft 7a]
MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March
LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- tick F7c in Ceuse
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013
Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)
M: core session I think
F: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Felt quite tired after work but managed to do all the new problems up to dark blue, got a few of the greens still to go at - maybe go back tomorrow. Not a bad session.
S: Bouldering at Robin Hood's Stride. Target was to do Jerry's Arete, which I didn't manage (it only dried up towards the end) but I had a good day. I repeated The Cave twice, which felt pretty easy, retro-flashed the Kid (both of those I did last winter), and did Spinal Slab for the first time. All Font 7as although the Kid is soft I think. I was really psyched after doing Spinal Slab, I must have fallen off it 100+ times over the last 3 years or so. As I got my right foot on the final high hold I could feel myself starting to over-balance backwards so just pushed up and went for the top with both hands, it was awesome :)
As you'll see my training this week was low in volume - this was due to having zero skin left after last weekend, it just wasn't up to climbing until Friday. Also had a touch week at work. However was pleased with today's day out as although I didn't tick what I went to do, I felt like I was climbing really well, the best I have outside this winter.
I will also own up to the fact that I have started doing weight-watchers this week. My wife was talking about it so I thought I would too, although I've only downloaded a point-tracking app rather than paying the monthly subscription, and I'm certainly not going to any meetings. Currently it seems fairly easy to keep to my daily points allowance as long as I don't snack a lot or have a big meal or booze out, which is nice. I'm currently 11 st 4-5 lb, and would like to get back down to 11 st or just under before Font in March. Given the Christmas break is about to arrive, I will need some willpower - hopefully this will give it me.
Cheers almscliff is great
STG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
LTG (End of 2013):
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Top out the chief
boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Lead E3 try onsight.
This Weeks Goals:
Indoors during the week - Tick
outside at the weekend - Tick
T: Depot 3 hours (sort of) on my own. Really fingery session.
W: Rest Fingers not good
S: Almscliff nice session but pretty wet. Got some new problems because what I wanted to do was soaking. Ticked a 6A and a 5
Next Weeks goals:
Taking it easy on my fingers so cut down mileage. After new years I am going to re focus on route fitness.
Oh - on the negative side, my holiday situation for the coming year is looking a bit uncertain as I am due to visit Ruth's family in Crete. This was supposed to be at Easter but we might now be going in May instead, which would throw Ceuse plans in to disarray. If I don't get a sport-climbing trip in Spring then I may re-focus my plans to trad a bit earlier (after Font in March, instead of after Ceuse in May) and then try to do a week or a couple of long-weekends in Wales or somewhere in the summer instead. However I think some springtime sport would definitely also be useful to build the stamina and power endurance following the winter...
Fair enough mate - let us know when you do. I think Alex has requested holiday for it now as have I, so all being well we should be confirmed on dates pretty soon...
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick
Sub 40 min 10km. - Tick
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
M - 4.75m treadmill, 2%.
T - 6.44m road run, 154ft.
W 6.17m road run, 138ft.
T 4.53m trail run, 613ft.
F 8.00m trail run, 338ft.
S - 5.17m road run, 59ft.
S - 7.94m road run, 226ft.
(not that I am in any way suggesting you're fat - quite the opposite!!)
Thanks Dan - paid for it this week though with a cold!
Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)
Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5 outside?
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)
Goals for next spring:
RP - 7a+
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
Frid: 1hr dry tooling
Sun: 2.5hrs MTBing
Getting cold, wet and scared last Saturday, although awesome, ment I ended up with a cold this week. As I'm starting 8 wks power training on Monday I didn't want to do my usual trick of going back to training too early and prelonging ilness, so I made sure it had gone before doing anything. So, not a great week training wise, but glad I had the dicipline to set myself up properly for what I want to do this coming week.
Spanked. Just got back from the BBC comp which went on allllll day. Skin suitably shredded, limp arms, back ache and cramped calfs. Was good to see Shauna and Puccio crushing in the female cat though! I managed to qualify 5th to make it through to the finals (unfortunately...) in which I was truly awful and didn't top any of the blocks finishing 5th overall. Was so wrecked. Now I have a shed load of work to do for tomorrow!! Arrggghhh.. Cannot wait until Friday. Then Spain a week Tues. Wahey! There is also talk of popping to font for a few days on new years day!!! Unreal!! Psyched. So much climbing!! Haven't actually been outside since Turkey 8 weeks ago!
T-BBC did a load of problems up to v8.
T-Boulder Central West Brom. Struggled on all the v6's. Was shattered from work.
F-On the lash. Very very drunk.
S-BBC comp. Qual - 5th. Finals - 5th. Was not expecting to do this well considering I barely climb at the moment. It showed a little in the final when I didn't have the energy, skin or psyche to get up anything.
Well done on using that diet plan!! That's some serious self control.
Week's plan is achievable but challenging, which is exactly what I need. Didn't totally achieve all of it this week, mainly due to work xmas do that I had totally forgotten about whilst planning last weekend...
Last week's goals:
- 3x lunchtime runs -1 DONE :(
- Orienteering -TICK
- 2x fingerboard/core sessions -ONLY ONE
- 2x wall (1 boulder, 1 ropes) -ONLY ONE
- 2x bike to work (probably not 3 this week as have lots else to get done either side of work) -SORT OF TICK
- Weekend mountains both days, climb/hike/ski. -TICK
M: Lunchtime run, 20mins on Chevin. Lovely and frozen.
T: Wussed out of lunchtime run due to sleet... rubbish! Evening City Bloc. Didn't really keep track of what I climbed but nothing too notable. I find that wall really intimidating - I feel I can barely climb anything there, the problems feel really high, and I'm the weakest person and only female in there! Doesn't help the psyche.
W: Evening orienteering. Hilarious as my (new and super bright!) headlamp gave up after 10 mins (my fault for not charging properly) and I ran the rest in the dark! Still did ok though. Loving the orienteering.
T: Biked to work. Work xmas do in evening, meaning both climbing and following day's activities were abandoned...
F: Biked home - the long way so I'm counting it as a bike ride!
S: 1hr10 run on Ilkley Moor. ~8km? (will check tomorrow). Fun despite rain.
S: 3.5 hour walk up/around Round Hill. Evening core session & attempt at fingerboard - found my old fingerboard session written down, tried it and realised how weak I am now. Definitely got to work on this...
This week's goals:
- 3x lunch runs
- 2x bike in
- Depot - work on the one red I nearly did 2 weeks ago
- Harrogate wall - 3x 6a, 1x 6a+, try a 6b.
- 2x core and FB sessions
- Find a decent FB workout plan that I can actually do!
M - Biscuit Factory. Warmed up then tried some of the white problems (v5-v6). Got four (I think?) of them which was pleased with as I haven't done any before) - either low or mid in the grade. Also ticked a couple of greens/reds I hadn't done.
T - Street orienteering round Pimlico. Good fun but bloody cold. Tactical error at the start meant I got about 30 fewer points than should have done. 2nd female overall
W-S - nothing (wedding, friends birthday, chocolate making)
S - shamed from reading fit club into fast 20min walk and core session.
F: A couple of hours bouldering at WW, really good session up to about V4, worked a V6 and generally felt I climbed well.
W: 3.1m run around Bridlington.
S: Bouldering at WW. Got a move further on the V6 and nearly completed a white (V3 - V5 I think).
I missed last week so a two week update from me. It's been a bit of a rubbish period as my Mum was taken into hospital a few weeks ago - she's never been ill before at all so it's all be a bit of a shock. She's fine now but I did spend all week up in Yorkshire looking after her. I hoped and expected to get a bit of running in but could only manage the one three-miler (which was actually very lovely).
Hopefully better this coming week.
Thanks Dan. 300 eh? Looking at my posts, I started around 180ish, but I think it was earlier, as UKC seem to delete older posts.
Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (lost a few lbs)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no climbing this week :( )
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, v3 @ wall, 12st 2lbs
MTG - Climb 6b @ wall, v4 @ wall, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - Dread to think
M - 100 situps
T - 40 squats
W - run - 3.4k, 19mins
T - 30 mins @ gym
F - 60 situps
S - 50 situps and 10 pushups
S - run - 11.5k, 1h 52m, 700m asc
Big increase in the running, too much kms in one week. Will stick to a really small week next week. Horrible weather up Pen-y-Fan and I've tweaked my ITBS again. I really need to try harder to stretch it out and see if I can get rid of it for good. Managed to do something every day this week. I can only have one more day off till the 31st. Should be able to manage the 25th/26th ok. Bit more worried about the works do on the 21st and then the 22nd.
After my 'bulking up' period I'm moving onto finger strength which is another department I'm lacking in, simply because I've never really had the motivation to improve.
Mon - rest
Tue - started my finger strenght phase, set loads of really fingery problems on my board, worked on locking crimps below shoulder level, finished off with half an hour fingerboarding and doing fingertip pull ups
Wed - rest, fingers a little sore but in a good way...
Thurs - back on the wall, again lots of fingery problems
Fri - rest
Sat - once more back on the wall at home, again doing lots of crimping, amazingly already feeling an improvement, can manage twice as many finger pullups as before!
Sun - YECTOYD day on the grit, went to Stanage and froze my fingers off on a HVS, two E1s and an E2 all lead. One of the E1s was Desperation which felt nails, the other was Easter Rib which felt piss. The E2 was a highball V3 into some well protected but tough 5c moves - hard for the grade!
Just checked mine and I started at Wk134. Mental. Still trying to achieve the same goals.... Doh. Well one of them anyway (Sport 8a....) The other was font7c but have managed more than that now... phew! :-)
AnnaK - nice work on the PB!
Last post for a two weeks as off to Wales on Saturday and then up to Scotland on the 27th till the 8th. In search of snow but want big days out and fun.
Had no alcohol this month and weight is the same as it was at the start of the month - should end the month lighter once I'm in the hills.
Happy chrimbo and New Year everyone!
Desperation is hard for E1 isnt it! Especially if you are less than 6ft, the start is tough. What was the E2, cave eliminate maybe? I want to get on that.
Decent week for me;
M - WW routes. Few easy warm up and then 2x6c & 2x6c+. Both with rests as bouldering has left my stamina / route reading a bit shoddy. However was happy, bouldering has meant that even the crux moves on them felt quite easy.
W - WW boudlering. New set. Lots of the easy problems in the oven. Flashed all the V1-V3 set. A few of the black V2-V4. Bit of a go on the V5 slab.
F - WW bouldering. Few more V2-V4, only one left on the oven side now. 1 of the V3-V5. Bunch of easier (V1-V3) in the oven. Bit more gos on the V5. Do-able but will be hard, lots of rockovers onto my right leg which has always been a bit weaker since breaking it.
Overall decent progress, feeling strong. A V5 & v6 I think will go in the WW boulder set this time. Also a very fun sideways dyno! the only remaining black must be V4 but will go.
One more session next week then off to parents for a week of eating. Then a week climbing in malta. Will post again in the new year.
Have a great Xmas and New year all, see you in 2013!
Morning everyone. Thanks Dan.
STG: V6 at boulderUK, RP 7b indoors or out, get outside at some point
MTG (March 2013): RP 7b in Spain
LTG (Summer 2013): more E1s, look at E2
Mon: Stockport bouldering, flashed one V5, more V3-V4s.
Wed: Beastmaker beginner training. Failed on the 3 finger hangs at the 3rd set, meaning I completed 2 sets. Progress :-)
Fri: Kendal wall, baltic. Sacked it off after 4 routes to sit in the cafe eating cake. Too fecking cold!
Sat: Stockport with Eagle River. Excellent session.
Sun: 11.2 mile run, 700m ascent, half of Kentmere horseshoe and back down the valley. Bit cold and windy on top, got lost in the clag so retreated early.
Had an educational session with Eagle River on Saturday. Started off with 2 warm up routes then following ER's example got on a hard (for me) route - a 7a which I tried (and failed) three times. Then kept up the pressure and did seven more routes at least one grade harder than what I thought I could onsight given how knackered I was at the time. Which meant I pretty much failed everything I tried in the session! But I definitely felt I got more out of that as a training session than my usual session. Gonna try to keep to this plan at the wall from now on. Cheers Steve!
Had a bit of a cold on Thurs/Fri/Sat and decided not to run on thursday cos of it.
You're welcome :-)
I may set up a coaching business simply regurgitating exactly what Nik Jennings told me.
ha ha yes I do remember Nik saying EXACTLY the same thing! Not sure why it took so long for the penny to drop but I got there in the end...
just realised that I only did 10 routes in total on Saturday so the numbers in my post are a bit off. obviously can't count in addition to my inability to listen!
Mon: Routes indoors. Ticked off what felt like a hard 7b from the new set of routes at stockport fourth attempt of the night (think I'd tried it a couple of times previous week), finished by failing on a tricky 7a+.
Thurs: Stockport again. had a few failed attempts at another new 7b, then ticked off the tricky 7a+ and failed on a funny route that was given 6c+ by Ian Vickers (the setter) then upgraded to 7b because loads of people found it really hard. For me it feels like a hard 7a, 7a+ at a push.
Sat: Stockport with Nomics. Ticked off the 7b from thurs so got on the new 7c which didn't feel too bad. Think it'll come down to a really strenuous clip on the lip of the overhang but it climbs really nicely. Finished off by ticking the 6c+/7b route (7a) and falling off another 7a+.
Felt like a good week, didn't feel weak for any session and I'm ticking off the new routes fairly quickly. If I can keep up this level of performance when training it'll pay off when it finally stops raining and I can climb routes outdoors again.
I think you missed the 3rd warm up route that we used for falling practice.
mon - bouldering, did all the easy (pink and yellow) problems then wave of tiredness hit so called it a day before my eyelids shut ;-D
tues - back to bouldering, did about half of the v2-v4s ie realisticly probably the v2/3s but not the 4s.
weds - lunchtime c25k session, really enjoyed it in frost so overdid it a bit (suffered next day ;-D). did a few pullups inn the evening
thurs - bouldering at red goat, warmed up in main room, then, 6x 40move laps with 3 minute rests on the 6a circuit, then did a few more of the black problems before heading to pub for forearm training session ;-D
fri- nowt except a short core session
sat-nowt except a short fingerboard sseshion
sun - mega scrambling and wainright summit ticking day in the lakes, could hardly move when I got home!!!!
plans for this week are to probably sack off bouldering tonight as I'm exhausted but then hit it tues evening and try to get some more of the blue routes (v2-4) done - reckon theres at least one possibly two I can get
Don't feel too bad about city bloc. The setting is really technical (fantastic though). I have not been in a while but it definately takes more thinking than other walls and a few sessions to get used to it.
Keep at it and it will come.
Which red at the depot? There is a really good one on the vert wall near the roof at the back definately worth a go.
wow mine was wk151 that seems so long ago ...
Looking at my goals I think I was a little adventurous
Finally got my V5 this year
Finally lead 7a this year.
So all goals have been achieved. Think I need to focus back on weight loss starting in the new year.
I guess I should return to verdon at some point too.
> I may set up a coaching business simply regurgitating exactly what Nik Jennings told me.
I do this to my mates at the wall too .. maybe I should start charging too ;o)
Also forgot that I did a session at Harrogate on Wednesday. Dogged the 7b I worked last week but didn't lead it cleanly.
Oh, and in the spirit of others reminisces, I had a quick look back and it turns out in week 200 (about 2 years ago, about new year) I was running Fit Club, and whilst I didn't know it at the time was about to get spanked on a trip abroad to Chateauvert. I was looking forwards to visiting Malham for the first time, and unbeknownst to me I was about to have a cracking year where I managed to get my first 7c. I think it was probably about 30 weeks later that the "8a before 30" goal started to form in my head :)
And back in week 100, I was dreaming ambitiously of crushing Still Waters, which I did about 20 weeks later, and had what now looks like a hopelessly overoptimistic set of plans for ticking dozens of 7s, E2s and the like.
Onwards to week 400 - hopefully by about week 360 I'll have a big 8-shaped announcement to make, but apart from that I'm curious to see what happens...!
> I do this to my mates at the wall too .. maybe I should start charging too ;o)
Ah but it's the way Nik says it that's important.
Cheers Dan. I may have established my new lifestyle but my goal of on-sighting 7a has stll not materialised :0(
Anyway onwards and upwards is the only way to go.
Last weeks targets:
BF below 13.5% average - DONE, just 13.3%
board x 2 - DONE 3 times
boulder x1 - FAIL. But i did a finergbaord session to make up for it.
routes x 1 - 7b MUST go down in a day. Got out but no suitable routes.
Run x 3 - DONE
M - Rest
T - Climbing at El Chorro
W - Rest - could have done something tbh
T - board 2 sets of 60/20's. 60 press ups and 20 pull ups.
F - Interval runs. 1 set of repeaters.40 press ups, 20 pull ups
S - Interval runs. 40 press ups, 20 pull ups.Board new protocol of 1m30s on 6 min off X4
S - Same as Sat + pull up test. 44 this time. I think Andy is going to win this one !
Climbing wasn't great. Mini heatwave caught us out. Went to Poema de Roca cave and did 2 awful warm ups and then realised everything was baking hot so retreated into the cave.
Had a look at a short 7b but it ended horizontally in the roof and i didn't fancy my chances of my getting the gear back if i couldn't do it. Then had a look at Swimming Through a Shark Attack as it has fixed gear in it. Great moves, i found it very intimidating and gave up at the 4th bolt as the fixed gear was not good.
Moved on to the Black Cave just to the left of Poema. One route in there which is a super steep 7b+. I had to admit it was a really nice route but a bit run out and i got scared again. Bit gutted that the fear seems to be back but this sort of steep climbing was always the worst for me. I know it's safer as you are falling into space but tell that to my head !
I had one good burn at it but bottled it basically at the crux and slumped on a bolt. I am pleased i went on and did the crux though with the adrenalin really pumping. At least i didn't give up. I had another go on top rope after and got through the crux but pumped out just after. If i am in the cave again i will have to give it another go.
I've started interval running as a way of being a bit more effective at burning the flab and aim to do it most days.
New board protocol as i was getting a bit stale on the old one. Using what i originally started with which is the Steve Mc idea of 2m30s on and 5-7 min rest repeated 4 times. It actually gives a much more realistic feeling, maybe i shoud have stuck with it. Ah well. Going to make a big juggy hold as well to stick in the middle to work on active rest/recovery.
Climbing with a good group in Chorro tomorrow so fingers crossed.
Didn't get out bouldering as my wife went back to the UK for 3 days which meant i had the kids. Went on the fingerboard and could feel the tweak in my left middle so sacked it. Anything intense is feeling hard at the moment so i really need to get bouldering and get some power back.
This weeks goals:
Either 7a on-sight attempt or 7b in a day
Should be climbing 2ce this week.
3x board - need to complete 1m30 sets in good style.
Run - 4 times
Boulder @ EL Torcalito
BF average below 13%
good result Jimmy. It'd be nice to place 5th when you don't feel youre going well.
Heh, yeah should have looked at my original goals:
>STG - Get out onto proper rock, ideally doing trad (don't care about grades, just want to have fun), break sub >30 mins for 5k distance (flat, not my usual hilly runs)
Done and done (around 25 mins atm, but have gone a bit faster).
>MTG - Bristol Half in Sept, aiming for sub 2 hours, Lead some easy trad, 13st weight
Never did the half, knackered my knee. With the benefit of hindsight, I wasn't a good enough runner (or had done enough running) to do a half marathon. Done and done.
>LTG - Walking/climbing trips into North Wales, 12st weight
Done and done.
>VLTG - Alps & Scottish Winter climbing also Cullin traverse & maybe a marathon?
Done, done, not been to Skye yet and done an ultra (so yes I guess).
So pretty much all of them done really. However I've stagnated a bit recently. Good to read this tho, reminds me how far I've actually come, which is quite a long way really.
Thanks for the round up Dan, is cool seeing peoples' progess. Disclipine is my weak point because my motivation is simply generic improvement, rather than a burning desire to lose weight, run a speed or distance or climb something specific. It's very early days for me though so I'm not too bothered, just moving more is an improvement.
M - couch to 5k run
T-T - nothing, lots of social and family stuff
F - routes at a new wall for me - leading 5+ but stiffer than am used to, worked hard and pleased with effort. Caught some falls too which is good for my confidence.
S - club christmas dinner, nom nom
S - Very nearly skived a prior commitment to go climbing but felt too guilty. Mebbe next weekend :p
So this week is my own, going to try a couple of the week 3 couch to 5k podcasts and climb at least once. Last week of work before christmas, lots too do then ready for a good break. Hope things aren't too manic with you all and thanks for the accountability :)
Hmm, well my first FC post was week 100 and I was still on here for 200, so it seems a shame to miss the next century.
Currently - my masters degree has taken over my life in a big way and I simply don't have the time to train at the moment. On the one hand I enjoy climbing most when I'm challenging myself, but on the other 2013 simply isn't going to top 2012 and I want to be realistic and not frustrated about that but still find a way to maintain the motivation to keep doing it. Definitely keen to think about goals that I can achieve without such a big investment in time and energy. I'm keen to keep my climbing ticking over and I don't want too big a hole to climb out of when I get a bit more time on my hands to focus on it again.
maintain 9000 8a.nu points (ie. maintain level of onsighting 7a+ and RP 7c)
do some trad in 2013
T - biscuit factory. quality session, mostly trying white circuit problems and the pink/green across the roof. Did the pink/green in 2 but failed to link it.
F - shortish boulder at castle. slightly frustrating set on the mezz where I feel like I did pretty much everything that I'm going to do there in the first 30 minutes, before hitting stopper moves on pretty much everything else. Spent another 2 hours failing to make progress on anything.
I have slipped out of the habit of keeping a note of what I have been upto but will do so once more from today. I hae been manging to run and fingerboard atleast three times a week each and am sure there is some progress-built upto just over three miles in just under 30 mins with a max run off five and half miles.
been mixing the burl routine ( as posted last week) with reapeaters and deadhangs and am definately making progress-I am sure that some of this is down to justy getting used to it but some of it does seem to be strengh.
More of the same to the new year really-. Got a cottage booked in peak for week after new year and will take my tiny tiny pad, hopefully get out a few times-if anyone lives in bristol area and could lend me a peak bouldering guide that would be great-loathe to spend £20 on something I might only use once or twice, though quite fancy the idea of getting up to the peak moreover the next year.
Thanks to all
I've got the older portrait style peak bouldering guide you can borrow if we can work out a way to exchange. I'm working by Parkway these days if that helps. Also got some of the peak definitions which have good bouldering coverage these days.
Since everyone else was reminiscing I thought I'd join in.
I joined fit club most recently in week 244 (Nov 2011, so only just over a year ago). Goals then were to maintain my weight at just below 11 st (which I did as a STG but have failed more more recently), do Green Traverse (done), do a couple of Font 7a+s/V7s (not done unless I count outrageous softies), and then a selection of grit and limestone trad routes, and 7b+ sport. I didn't manage all my grit goals but over-achieved on limestone and elsewhere, and ticked 7c - so pleased with that overall. Aim this year to do more trad.
More interestingly I was first involved in Fit club between weeks 32 and 78 (October 07 - September 08). This was at a time when I had broken my toe and had serious worries I'd never climb again (it never healed properly) so I needed something to motivate me to do some fingerboard training while I waited for it to recover enough for me to climb without pain (it eventually did in about March 08, after 6 months out). My goals back then for 2008 were:
- Onsight one or two E2s on grit
- Onsight at least five E1s on grit
- Climb Flying Buttress Direct
- Onsight one or two E1s off grit, or more if I fit in a weekend trip anywhere further in good weather
- Get out and try to onsight at least 5 routes of VS or above every week (when doing routes)
- Work a Font 6c.
- If I go on a sport climbing trip, work a F7a.
- Get consistent on the V2s and V3s at Wirksworth wall (this may be the hardest of the lot!)
I think its fair to say I've come a long way since then, which is nice. The trad grade has only crept up one notch but everything else has improved significantly. One thing I do notice looking back to my posts in that first Fit Club stint is that I clearly wasn't as motivated at the time by training. I think the reasons for this are twofold - 1) more sport climbing and bouldering focus which has made me concentrate on getting stronger & fitter, 2) knowing more of the people on fit club in real life, so having more interest in filling in the posts etc and feeling a bit more pressure to not be a lazy arse.
PS someone else said they didn't think the older ukc posts were stored prior to a certain date. They are - its just that the search will only show up to 5 pages' worth of posts, so if you do a stricter search (eg only looking the training forum instead of in all forums) you will get posts going back to longer ago. I've got them going back to early 2004 anyway which is when I joined ukc.
Yes it was Cave Eliminate, it's a pretty good route. The boulder problem start took me three goes, on my third go I noticed a horizontal slot that I'd been missing, but it feels a bit highball with a high heel hook... after that there's another pretty hard move, probably 6a again, so it's a tough one!
Just looked back at my first post - Week 242, which is just over a year ago now! Doesn't seem like that long ago but when I read over my post it really does, my ambitions have changed so much!
My short term goals at the time (which Andy described as "stretching") were to redpoint a 7c in the Peak *tick*, onsight Bitterfingers (E4) *tick* and to work a few V7s *tick* which is nice, but I didn't really do them in the 'short term'. Then we move on to the midterm goals - redpoint 8a - *drastic fail*, get on the British Team - *MEGA FAIL*. Ironically my long term goal was to onsight E5 which makes up for the other stuff a bit, and I also exceeded my sport onsight goal by onsighting the 7c in Spain. My grit climbing has also improved a lot so that's another thing to be pleased about.
Hopefully my failures are kind of outweighed by any successes, and I'm keen to be able to achieve some of those redpointing and competing goals given a bit more time, so it's not all bad!
Good to hear about other people's Fit Club histories too!
Oops <blushing smiley>
"Goal for the year is to stay injury free - last year was a washout due to knee op and torn shin and ankle muscles. Entered my first ever race in March, an adventure race in the Grizdale forest, also entered The Wall in June - 69 miles. No ambition to climb hard, would just like to be neat at english 5a/b."
Tick - Injury free. Niggles yes but they've been managed.
Tick - Finished the adventure race and the Ultra
Tick - Climbing is loads neater!
I now have much harder climbing goals tho. My first year on fit club has been alright tho. Happy days! Thanks everyone.
Thanks Dan. I've been avoiding the fingerboard while the broken finger healed, it's good to get back on it.
Happy tricentenary, fitclub :-)
Mon - Biscuit Factory. 2x whites (V5-6), pretty pleased with that.
Tues - Biscuit Factory again. Another white and getting close to a couple more.
Wedns - Castle. Short boulder.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Castle. Fell off the V1s on the mezz... Weighted pullups.
Sat - Castle. Supposed to be doing laps but totally crashed about half an hour in... not really a surprise looking back at the week!
Sun - Rest.
Yeah, I realised my mistake later on and found all the posts. I'm tempted to write a scraper to archive all my fitclub posts onto my blog, as it's been quite interesting to re-read them.
AJM - Flights are booked for Weds and Weather is currently looking OK. Any recommendations?
For Rodellar - what sort of grades?
I've got an email somewhere ally sent me with loads of 7b+ to 8a stuff on it - ping me a mail and I'll see if I can find it.
Of the stuff I did, I enjoyed the 7a+ at aquest that I flashed, traglobadas or something, although it's a bit intimidating, but my favourite route I did was the second of the 2 7bs I did - caco de te mato or something, but check my logbook.
Breaking out into recommendations from others and stuff that looked good now, the 7b+s at pince sans rire get good writeups from most, the 7a+ up near El delfin looks bonkers steep for its grade as does pequeno Pablo, there's a 7c on the right hand side of givers, about 5 routes or so from the end that I kind of fancied, and sopas de aho is apparently good in a weird way, basically hopeless tufa udging.
Of, and if you're fit enough corridor del muerte I think it is at surgencia just looked insane!
Elsewhere on the site
Atom Series: Synthetic insulated mid layers AR: All-Round. Significantly warmer and more protective than a fleece hoody, this... Read more
Nikwax’s uncompromising environmental ethos has once again been recognised and rewarded by a trusted authority in... Read more
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
The British climbing scene is very exciting at the moment. It is quite clear that as a sport it is developing at a rapid rate and... Read more