/ Taxus Icefall finish

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alastair maclean - on 16 Dec 2012
Just after some opinion/advice about the icefall finish. How many pitches, what are belays like, how many screws assuming good quantity of ice etc?

cheers
Al
Wee Davie - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to alastair maclean:

Haven't done it but I know a man who has-
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Stuart the postie - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to alastair maclean:

I've done it a few times, the ice is short but fun. You will probably belay above this at a short corner/wall, then one pitch above this will lead onto easy snow slopes above.

The ice is usually thin, one screw would be enough, the belays are fine too.

Stuart
Wee Davie - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to Stuart the postie:

'one screw would be enough'

Who for? You?
Stuart the postie - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Wee Davie:

Ok, 2 then.

One placed above your head, at the steep bit, the other on the flat bit as you pull over! I think it might be some kind of thread belay above.

The corner/turfy wall above, is more difficult than the ice.

Stuart

gregor - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to alastair maclean: Hi Alistair - like Postie I have done it a few times but have seen it very fat with ice a couple of times, 4 pitches is how I remember doing it most times, like Postie I find the last turfy pitch the harder one. It is, I think very low in the grade and I have found it a good route to take a new start on. For me it is a 5 ice screw route but I like a bit of kit in hand and on a couple of times have used an ice screw belay - Gregor
In reply to gregor: Agree, four or five screws seems sensible. The steep ice is fairly short-lived, but including the easier ice below it's a reasonable length pitch and I do seem to remember ice screw(s) in the belay at the top of it too. The turfy pitch above felt harder to me as well.
LakesWinter on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to alastair maclean: The top corner pitch is definitely harder than the ice step. It is the top pitch that gets the route the IV overall grade really. The ice pitch is steep for a move or 2 but never that bad and more like the grade III lower in the gully.
alastair maclean - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to all:

Thanks to everyone for their help.
Just need to hope for good conditions now.
Merlin - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to alastair maclean:

There is a peg it the capping roof above the tuf wall before you have to traverse left, but I don't remember getting much else in - although it was dark and by that point I was just gunning for the top. I rember the final slope being quite long and only just having enough rope to flop over the top!

Great route, not too difficult.
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m dunn - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to alastair maclean: Done both finishes; the non-icefall one is better.:)

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