/ Lost the Mojo!

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Kaya - on 17 Dec 2012
Two years ago use to climb alot, the an hiccup. Got trainning again then a finger injury in March 2012 and now lost the flow. Weather, lack of trainning facilties, time etc etc. I need to get on the band wagon, got a font trip next spring and want to get back up to my previous trad standard.
Has anyone else been here and what did you do to get the mojo going again?
GridNorth - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya: I stopped worrying about grades and piddly little boulder problems and got back into proper adventurous climbing.
Timmd on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:

Don't think about the grades and just do things for fun I guess, i'm very slowly coming back from injury, and my focus is on things which are interesting or stimulating, which for me is balancy things which need a little bit of technique.
Jon Stewart - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:

I'd say: structured training. It's winter, you're not going to get anything done trad-wise for a while, just get someone who's committed and enthusiastic to train indoors with, and train indoors.

A session with a coach who could analyse your strengths and weaknesses and come up with a plan for you that fits your goals and level of commitment/available time might be helpful too.
Mark Harding - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:
> Two years ago use to climb alot, the an hiccup. Got trainning again then a finger injury in March 2012 and now lost the flow.

In pretty much the same situation, (except it's a very long time ago since I was climbing really seriously). Anyway, not climbed at all since March so I'm off to Spain for a couple of weeks to clip some bolts. Not expecting anything at all grade-wise, just a fun trip and a bit of sun. Hopefully this will do the trick. We'll see.
Bulls Crack - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:

With me it seemed to centre around climbing 'well' in my own estimation. I'd been in a decline for several years getting progressively worse and hating the fact that i was (a)wibbling all the time and (b) climbing badly. and had seriously thought about giving up. Then, on an inconsequential sport route in Yorkshire, on the point of bailing out, it all changed and an inner voice said: 'You can do this' and I did, with ease - and enjoyed the feeling..a lot. The next route I cruised and loved every second and since then it's been a steady recovery in both trad and sport. I have the occasional off day but then I always did. So, I suppose, you've got to want to do it in the end!
Alun - on 18 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:
Relax, when it goes, there's nothing you can do about it. It comes back eventually. And if it doesn't, so what? There are more amazing things to do in life, and never any excuse to be bored.
Blunderbuss - on 18 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:

I lost mine after the birth of my first child and it completely disappeared when my second turned up!

I suspect it may return when my son is older and he maybe wants to climb. If he doesn't I think that'll be it for me.

I am now in the process of selling all my gear, it feels like a 'cleansing' process in a strange way!
David Rose - on 19 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya: Take up caving.
ArnaudG - on 19 Dec 2012
In reply to davidoldfart:

Or sea kayaking.
ChrisJD on 19 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:

Buy a mountain bike - will get you fit, give you a speed buzz and help keep the weight down, which will all help when you start to climb again
Kemics - on 19 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:

or..slightly controversial ..start grade chasing again

Your muscle memory will still be there and your body will very quickly develop back to your previous high point, it takes no where near as much effort getting back as the first effort to get there. So a bit of a structured training should see you rapidly develop and I always find fast development really motivating. e.g "man I remember a few sessions ago not being able to hold something and now I can"
tombeasley - on 19 Dec 2012
In reply to Kemics:
> (In reply to Kaya)
> or..slightly controversial ..start grade chasing again

Got to agree with the above, have been at the same point a couple of times before, indeed very recently. Focus on short term goals, progressing and having fun! Try to climb with like minded people even if its once a week.

Whilst it isn't always about the grade it is great to feel progression and moving well on rock - get out there and have fun!

fizz - on 19 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:

Well you wouldnít be asking if you DIDNíT want it back again

Sympathise with the injury / lost the flow thing ... have had 4 knee ops since I started climbing, all with long waits for diagnoses/ treatment/ rehab. My climbing feels like snakes & ladders, grades and daring go up and back to zero. That got pretty depressing so instead of thinking about how well I could / should have been climbing whenever I went back to it, I stopped to think about why I climb.

I do it because it makes me happy.

I enjoy different lots of different stuff - windsurfing, biking, guitars Ė but nothing makes me happy like pootling about on a climb. And if I strip out all the judgemental voices in my head (should be able to climb harder / god youíre really crap at this now etc) and just appreciate why I liked it in the first place, when I go again after a two-year gap this time, I will have fun.

Guess itís just a long-winded way of saying donít do it because youíre comparing yourself with how good you think you used to be. Do it because you remember how much fun you thought it was in the first place and see where that takes you this time around.
Beardyman - on 20 Dec 2012
In reply to Blunderbuss: Shame, having kids sure takes up alot of your time but it's still possible to get out climbing.

Since my daughter was born it has been really hard to make time to get out climbing. One solution is to have short bouldering sessions at a child friendly area. I live about 1 hr from Bowden so have taken my daughter there quite a few times, never for more then 2 hrs and only when the weather is pleasant.

If you really don't miss it then fine......
,......but you are reading this thread! .......on a CLIMBING website

....get the kids out in the fresh air and have a wee boulder.
mick.h on 20 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:
I have lost my mojo and never want to get it back. No idea why - after daughter #1 I climbed at my (modest) limit, now ten years and another kid later, I have no inclination to risk myself at all. I have no idea why this has happened. I am starting to look at climbers as nut jobs rather than kindred spirits. Answers on a postcard please.
Jonathan T - on 21 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya: Give up, do something else. You might enjoy your new activity more or it might bring you back to climbing.
caradoc - on 25 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya: I have had a poor year too. I didn't get out anything like as much as I used to mainly because of the weather and I have gradually lost motivation. There are are still a lot of routes I want to do and I spend my time looking at photos of the Alps. When the sun comes out and the country dries up it will all look a lot better, fingers crossed for next year.
Jamie B - on 25 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya:

In 16 years of climbing I've lost the mojo several times, for a variety of reasons. I (eventually) got it back every time, but would struggle to say why/how. I think the truth is that if climbing is really deeply imprinted on you, you'll ride all of the waves and turbulence that seem to accompany it. Or if not you'll drift away and do something else. As others have said, if that is the truth don't fight it. I've seen loads of good climbers for whom there was nevertheless a timsecale to their enjoyment. Maybe that is you?

Don't know if this is much help - Merry Christmas.
gazfellows on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya: Just get back on real rock ! It worked for me ;)
gazfellows on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: agree entirely JB
Chambers - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Kaya: It comes and goes, I find. In over 35 years of climbing I've had periods of high motivation when I've been climbing pretty much full-time, and then there've been periods where I've done nothing for months.

At the moment I'm having a serious climbing renaissance. After a year when I was continually thwarted by lousy weather and was seriously beginning to wonder whether I even wanted to go climbing again. Now, however, my seventeen year-old son has come to live with me and he's always keen to go out. So it's been down the wall a lot lately, and the spark is re-ignited. Henry's pretty capable and has a far better build for climbing than I do. He's snapping at my heels already, and I ain't about to get burned off by damn Henry!!

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