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Topic - Finale in Jan. - Tips please!

Darragh - on 18 Dec 2012
’Going to Finale Ligure for the first time in a couple of weeks – just for a week and the guidebook is 600 pages long (!) so I’m eager to get some tips on which crags to hit. I think some crags/routes are very polished, some are very, um, ‘traditionally’ bolted and I’ve heard there’s a fair amount of sandbag grading. We’d quite like to avoid each of these (especially scarily spaced bolts, as we haven’t been proper sport climbing for ages and a week is not such a long time to get the psyche on) so tips on which crags have been most recently developed/equipped and fairly graded would be especially useful. We climb up to 6c or so on a good day, but very happy to romp and bumble on lower grades. Long routes preferred (really long, if the weather’s good enough). We love crimpy balancey face climbing and physical, brain-teasing corners, off-widths etc.; not so big on OHs and roofs.

In the guidebook it sometimes gives ‘compulsory grades’ with aid grades numbers for people wanting to do routes a bit too hard for them and aiding through the cruxes. I’ve never done much of this (honest!) but I’m tempted try on one of the sublime multi-pitchs. Is it feasible? (To do it, would we need to carry trad gear to pull on, or is a sling on a bolt usually enough?)

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