/ Finale in Jan. - Tips please!
In the guidebook it sometimes gives ‘compulsory grades’ with aid grades numbers for people wanting to do routes a bit too hard for them and aiding through the cruxes. I’ve never done much of this (honest!) but I’m tempted try on one of the sublime multi-pitchs. Is it feasible? (To do it, would we need to carry trad gear to pull on, or is a sling on a bolt usually enough?)
There's a very nice 200 metre cliff just outside the city of Finale. The new area towards France, "Oltre Finale" a lot less polished.
http://www.patagonia.fi/finale/ (my pics)
I've been to Finale loads (although not recently) and haven't found it that polished. The older multi pitch routes have less bolts but almost all the single pitch stuff is well bolted. Grades wise I always found them consistently tough (rather than sandbags). Look to drop a couple of grades at the start. A good place to start would be Rian Cornei valley which has loads of crags in it.
Grades are tough in Finale....and locals are really proud of it...IMHO some of it is sandbaging, but some of it is just that Finale has a tricky climbing style, especially the "crimpy balancey face climbing" ones.
I agree that la "Valle Cornei" has a good introduction for you guys....La falesia dell'eco has several nice 6a's for you to try as a first day...once you get used to it, the "Rocca di Perti" and "Monte Cucco"(free camping here) are a good choice. In Monte Cucco you will find a few 6a's that feel like tricky 6c's, but just look at the route's year...if it's from the late 70's early 80's then you know you will face a tougher grade.
The longer routes there are located mainly in the "Paretone" (big wall in English)....there is a must-do route called "Grimonet", 240m, 6b max (1 or 2 pitches at 6b),....mind you that longer routes almost always mean more spaced bolts, but it never gets really scary there, as far as I am concerned. It is an awesome route!
I also heard that the new guidebook was more "precise" with the grading....but such statement has caused some controversy.
Finale has around 3.000 routes, so you will have plenty to climb...go to "Finalborgo" and ask for some advice at one of the two stores there.
I live about 60km from there...if you want to, drop me a line and I may be able to join you guys at least for a day or so. Have a nice trip!
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