/ what would you do in Glencoe (or near) tomorrow...?

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sleeplessjb - on 20 Dec 2012
.... apart from call it a day and go to the pub?

the sais forecast is better here than anywhere but still not quite good enough to go to dorsal arete or twisting gully... just got up tonight so haven't really seen how far the snow is down...

any advice appreciated...

Andy Nisbet - on 20 Dec 2012
In reply to sleeplessjb:

I'm sure you'll get some ridge done, but not my area for a suggestion.
Jamie B - on 20 Dec 2012
In reply to sleeplessjb:

Dorsal should be fine if it's not too windy, just head for the bottom of the buttress rather than towards Broad Gully.

I'm headed for the Ben, but not clear what if anything we'll get done.
JohnnyW - on 23 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

After a really wild couple of days down here in Stirling, I am curious if anyone did actually get anything done? Surely it was too grim!?

I'm off work from tomorrow night until after Hogmanay, for the first time in my working life, and am praying for some decent weather to climb in.........but it looks iffy eh?
Jamie B - on 23 Dec 2012
In reply to JohnnyW:

Walked into the Ben on Friday and found freezing conditions above the hut, but also a lot of wind and scary amounts of snow higher up. The Ben really gives me the willies when it's getting battered by easterlies, as they tend to be really gusty, get vortexed around and lead to windslab deposits in all sorts of unexpected places.

We cut our losses and went up Ledge Route, which was blustery but manageable. At least two teams headed into the Ciste and one of them was reported to have got up Wendigo. Another pair did R-Hand Chimney on Moonlight Gully Buttress, which was a good choice if somewhat hard for the grade in rocky conditions.

Don't know what happened to the team leaving the hut at 9.30 for Tower Ridge, but I hope they didn't mind my "hint" that this wasn't a good idea and that there wasn't too much trauma thereafter.

I was back at the car-parks (top and bottom) yesterday to look for some lost kit, and it was a lot wilder. There were 2 cars at the bottom, but I suspect these may well have been runners/dog-walkers.

What did surprise me was the amount of visible ice on the lower crags. There was a fair amount of development on Gemini, Waterfall Gully and the Curtain, and even the Hut Cascade looked almost climbable. There was probably quite a lot more that I couldn't see amongst the whiteness.

Somebody once said to me that "the Ben loves a storm", inasmuch as this produces the mix of snow build-up and oscillating freezing level that ultimately builds great conditions. But I think until this one blows itself out much of the hill will be death on a stick.
JohnnyW - on 23 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Thanks Jamie, much as I thought, other than the amount of ice build up I suppose.

I had contemplated Ledge Route myself, but I hate wind, so I am comforted in the fact that my enforced lazy weekend was probably the right decision in the circumstances.

Bloody typical, back to work tomorrow, family stuff 25th and 26th, then I can get North just in time for the forecast to worsen again

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