/ fingerboard warm up ideas

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alanlgm - on 21 Dec 2012
evening all

I am currently climbing at around 7a + or - a grade or so depending on how energetic i am feeling.

I have just got a beastmaker so i can get some training done at home as i am making it to the wall less and less at the moment and dont want my grades to suffer.

I can find lots of workouts for the fingerboard and will adapt one to my needs as i go along but what i am after is any ideas on a good warm up.

The last thing i want to do is to start on a session without giving my digits a proper warm up as i have heard that popping noise before and theres no way i want to hear it again.

What do you guys do to make sure your fingers are good to go before starting to beast it.

Al
rtwilli4 - on 21 Dec 2012
In reply to alanlgm:

Get your heart rate up for 15 min first by running, skipping rope, etc. Then do a few sets of pull ups on the jugs and start in slow on the smaller holds. Warming up and cooling down/stretching accounts for half of the time spent working out.
Toby Dunn - on 22 Dec 2012
>
> What do you guys do to make sure your fingers are good to go before starting to beast it.
>

you need to warm up most of your upper body, including core really. Easy climbing is ideal but if inacessible.... a theraband is useful, some sets of reps with a gripmaster / powerball / squeeze tennis balls.

I usually use a pattern of repeaters to simulate a climbing session, if that is the object rather than max hangs, start with a couple of easier sets and wind it up gradually.

Monk - on 22 Dec 2012
In reply to Toby Dunn: what he said. I normally do sts of press UPS, pull UPS and squats to warm up, then start with some easier repeaters. Seems to Work... Although I an injured at the moment...
shark - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to Monk:

I don't think you need to warm-up anything bar your fingers/forearms for deadhanging.

A warm-up is key not only for injury prevention but to get your fingers fully "recruited" (neurally activated) so that you are hanging at your best/hardest to get the best training stimulus.

Progressively harder hangs are best and some pull-ups if your routine involves pulls. Foot on a chair and using different grips is good.

Allow half an hour for warming up although there is a lot of variation in how long people need.
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to shark:

+1

After some easy hangs, you can do a full set of repeaters on 5/5 rather than 7/3 seconds. Then rest - and go.
Fluvial - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to alanlgm:

beastmaker have a plan for you to follow loads on their website
alanlgm - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to fozmeister:
> (In reply to alanlgm)
>
> beastmaker have a plan for you to follow loads on their website

There are plenty of training plans all over the Web and i have butchered a few to meet my needs but the trouble with them is that they do not include any warm up or preperation excersises they are just teh training plan.

we all know how dodgy fingerboards can be and with the abscence of a wall to warm up on its actual warm up ideas that i am after.

Thanks to the guys that have given a few ideas i am getting somewhere with building a complete plan.

any suggestions still welcome though


thanks

Al
Fluvial - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to alanlgm:

Right I am with you.

Have you tried those ball squeezers things. Generally before I go on mine I do small stretch exercises with my fingers by gently allowing my body weight to rest on each finger in the hold by hanging gently on it.

I can see what you mean there aren't that many prescribed ones
ads.ukclimbing.com
shark - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to alanlgm:
> (In reply to fozmeister)
> [...]
>
> There are plenty of training plans all over the Web and i have butchered a few to meet my needs but the trouble with them is that they do not include any warm up or preperation excersises they are just teh training plan.
>


This post is by Carlisleslapper aka Dan Varian of Beastmaker:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10876.msg198885.html#msg198885

Warm ups:
The best way to warm up on it is to get an old chair and put it roughly2-3feet behind the board and stick a leg on it for your first hangs (with your other leg guarding against un expected pings (if you only have 1 leg this may be difficult, and a hard decision between warming up well or falling on your back might have to be made)),

I go 20 degree sloper, sets to: 1 hand jug 1 hand big slots , to dragging the slots, then crimping them, after a bit of a rest and shake of the arms i then move on to pockets front, middle, back, and then onto the 35 degree slopers.

I then sack the session off if i feel bad on these after a few reps. Or get crushing if it feels like i just about only need one arm (personal reference only)

I'd agree if your only using 50% of the board in general sessions it'll be harder to warm up on, so the chair/pulley/bungee option would help with this best.
I generally allow 30minutes to get fully warm and recruited/ to expect some power to start arriving in my arms, before that i'm quite patient.

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