/ NEWS: Tokoyo, 8C, by Toru Nakajima

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UKC News - on 24 Dec 2012
Toru Nakajima on Tokoyo, 8C, Kasagi, Japan, 4 kbToru Nakajima, 19, gave himself the best possible Christmas gift by making the second ascent of Dai Koyamada's Tokoyo, 8C, at Kasagi, Japan.
Dai put up the problem in November last year calling it his best problem ever.
I'll try to find out more about this and update the news sortky.
I made an...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67698
mplaine - on 24 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Congrats, Toru! Sounds like the best Christmas present ever! :)

Any idea who did the second ascent and when? I haven't heard any news about it prior to this post.

Ps. The video ( http://www.vimeo.com/44600835 , 2:07 ->) of the first ascent can be seen on the Eternally DVD.
HP - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to mplaine:
The thing in this news item that I am most interested in is why did the second asenscionist not claim it?

Does this person climb for fun and not publicity? Did they have to trespass to do the climb? Did he pull a sickie from work and not want to get found out and sacked?
Alex Thompson - on 03 Jan 2013
mplaine - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Alex Thompson:

Interesting, the title of the video now states "Toru Nakajima sends Tokoyo V14".
douwe - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Seems a new sequence has been found making it V14 instead of V15. Dai writes about it in his online dairy.
mplaine - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to douwe:
Google translate (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fkoyamada.dai.hiho... was not that helpful so I watched both sends (Dai and Toru's that is) through a few times. They use a different sequence for the first few moves. However, the holds they are using seem to be the same, just in a different order.
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Jonas Wiklund - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to mplaine: 8B+ and 8C are both covered by the same grade (5-dan) on the Ogawayama scale for bouldering used in Japan. (=5-stage in the useless google-translation of Koyamadas blog).

As far as my very limited Japanese goes, the blog first describes some access issues around the area, then explain that Tokoyo seems to have settled at V14/5-dan and that a new sequence has been found. The last paragraph says that the neighbouring problem "Gense" is 4/5-dan and not v14 or 5-dan in Koyamada's opinion.

(Disclaimer: I often get things wrong and always miss subtext)

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