/ Mull?

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royroybridge - on 27 Dec 2012
Just wondered if people are aware of any winter climbing possibilities on Mull? I'm aware of some good looking ice smears which have never been climbed but think they might be out of my range, was more wondering about gullies/buttresses on Ben More or something.
Thanks.
Colin Moody - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to royroybridge:

Don't know what your 'range' is, it would be handy if you had a profile on here.

Six route have been recorded on Ben More. The longest is a 150m I/II, the hardest is a 30m III.
Milesy - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to royroybridge:

Probably but it is a long way to travel for conditions which may or may not exist plus Mull's climate is more moderated by the gulf stream.
fall-line - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to Colin Moody:

Sounds about right - can I find the descriptions anywhere? Doesn't seem to be much on UKC.
fall-line - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:

I wouldn't travel all the way there specially - just happen to be on the island at New Year.
Colin Moody - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to fall-line:


Ben More

Alt 700m North-East facing

Cioch Cleft 50m I (2006) NM 529 333

On the north side of the interconnecting ridge between A Cioch and Ben More is a prominent well-defined narrow gully line splitting a buttress on the Ben More side just upslope from the lowest part of the ridge. Straightforward snow leads to the lower part of the NE ridge to Ben More.

Organic Diversion 150m I/II * (2005)

Climb the obvious shelf that cuts from left to right across the north face of Ben More finishing 100m to the right of the summit.

Carrot 50m II (2006)

Follows a gully diagonally up left for first pitch, then move right up rocks and up easier snow to the ridge.

Professor Falls 30m II/III (NM 52277 33878; 704m) (2008)

At the right-hand (north) end of the outcrop lies a higher, more broken area of ground. A noticeable broken cascade flows down this in a series of steps. Climb this to where the angle eases off.

Cascade Karen 30m III (NM 52220 33925; 625m) (2008)

About two-thirds along the cliff going south an icy ramp cuts through the steeper ground. Follow the ramp to an awkward bulge which leads onto less steep mixed ground.

Vertige Vivienne 30m II/III (NM 52277 33878; 625m) (2008)

About 15m left of Cacade Karen, towards the south end of the outcrop, lies a slightly easier angled break in the cliff down which flows an icy cascade. Climb the cascade, steepest in the first 10m before the angle eases and becomes more mixed.
fall-line - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to Colin Moody:

That's brilliant - thanks a lot!

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