/ Beastmaker for the older climber ?
Most of the strong (and much younger) lads have beastmakers so I'm considering getting one. I don't expect to be able to train as hard as someone of 18 and I don't want to finish off my somewhat abused fingers but do you think some worthwhile gains could be made if a sensible training regime was followed ?
I'd certainly hope so. Ask Rab Carrington!
Word of warning though don't over do it and get quality rest in between sessions.
Having been climbing a long time then your tendons should be in a better condition to cope with fingerboarding than most unless you have a history of finger injury.
Gains should be possible. Admittedly I'm 10 years younger than you but have gained excellent results from deadhanging over the last 6 months and can now hang with with about 20kg+ more than in the summer.
As a long termer you should be looking for a high level of intensity (after warming up) to provoke a training response. That means hangs at or near the limit of your strength. Lots of medium level hangs might result in little or no response. To achieve the required intensity usually requires a day of rest before a deadhang session and 48-72 hours rest before your next fingerboard session. Blocks of three weeks then a rest week can work well.
I'm 51 and bought a BM1000 this year. Am not using it much yet I must admit; mainly bought it as a precaution against times when work/family precludes getting to the wall regularly, and that luckily hasn't been the case so far.
One thing to not be too surprised/disappointed by: new ones are *much* more slippy and harder to hang than well worn-in ones at walls. I can hang the 45 slopers for a few seconds on one at my local wall: on my own at home I have yet to get off the ground on the 35s.
See this thread on the other channel where I asked for advice about which one to get:
I've never used one, but isn't the idea that they should be hard to hang? Genuine question, by the way.
Genuine question, genuine answer: yes, but ...
I am not an expert, but what impresses me about the BM from what I've heard / read on their website is a lot of attention to detail. Careful selection of wood for skin-friendly texture, shapes & radiuses painstakingly thought out to be tendon-friendly and so forth. But also: consistent/repeatable/comparable across individual boards. What I can do on my beastmaker is supposed to be somewhat comparable with what I can do on your beastmaker; assuming both are hung exactly vertical, similar temp, humidity etc. Kind of like in rowing where there are Ergometer online leagues & records, working on the assumption that Ergometers tend to be pretty well calibrated and consistent.
Whereas in reality what I learned is that there is a *huge* difference between a well bedded in heavily used BM in a public place and a brand new slick one at home.
This doesn't bother me at all - I was just pointing out to the OP that it is so, in case he too is used to BMs at walls and is then shocked to find he can hardly do anything when he hangs his new one up at home.
Yes. There is a trade off in consistency vs skin friendliness between wood and resin fingerboards. Slopers on new beastmakers are especially slick. Dan at Beastmaker has recommended using diffrent grades of sandpaper to customise the texture. Another tip is to rub spit into your fingers instead of chalk. Ambient heat/humidity can make a big diffrence too.
On a seperate note I have found that weighted deadhangs using a half crimp on an edge whilst (currently) unorthodox has given me vastly better strength gains than various forms of repeaters across diffrent holds. This approach has been pioneered by Eva Lopez whose initial research is here http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Finger%20training and expanded in her blog and there is a UKB discussion here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20341.0.html
The sports science is woefully limited especially compared to cycling. No prizes for guessing why. Unfortunately we can't borrow much either as the development of isometric finger strength and endurance is useless for any other sport.
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