/ F8a project close to Bristol

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Bodiggo - on 29 Dec 2012
Any recommendations for a F8a sport project for evenings from North Bristol?

Cheddar/brean probably too far away at ~50mins, normally climb in the wye but not sure of anything there

Have been on academic at Avon a few times but can't do the drop knee crux (dodgy knee..).
Stone Muppet - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Bodiggo: Isn't there one at the bottom of the ramp? ukc has it at 8b but I thought it was less in the guidebook. might be mistaken seeing as it's out of my league at either price!
AJM - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Bodiggo:

Can't think of any in the wye I'm afraid, think Ban y Gor tops out at about 7c+.

If you think Cheddar or Brean is too far away (I used to do it regularly when I was working in Glucester and at Bristol Parkway, so unsurprisingly I disagree :) and you can't get the drop knee on Academic then I'm afraid I'm at a loss, sorry. I don't think Stone Muppet is right that there's another 8a on the bottom of the ramp - I think he might be thinking of The Prince which is 8a+/b in the guide? There might be some sort of bouldery E6 7a or something that translates to 8a I suppose, but you met have to experiment to find which one it is.

In a similar position to you, I chose Right Hand Man at Cheddar to try and work.
gazhbo - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Bodiggo:

Academic is probably the only 8a at Avon. One Scream's Enough is given 7c but is very hard, I think harder than Academic. The one at the bottom of the ramp is The Prince and is very hard and very specific (tiny crimps on a slab)

If you can get to Cheddar/Brean there's loads to go at. Right-Hand man is good and crimpy. Lion Sleeps tonight on lion rock is Shadow Walker with a slightly easier finish and is brilliant. Fornicator Simulator is wonderful but soft (very soft really). At Brean, Milky Bar Kid is great but requires a lot of endurance. Black Snake Moan is also good but it's a bit of a one move wonder (albeit a good move) and it's not really 8a.

You can do Cheddar in 45 minutes from North Bristol on a good day.
Bodiggo - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to gazhbo: thanks for the info guys. The problem with 45mins down to cheddar is that I have a long drive to Bristol in the morning to work and then my climbing partner comes from Swansea for the evening so not really practical which is a shame

Maybe I should find try and find some other beta for academic..
AJM - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to gazhbo:
Agree with all your comments about Bristol 8a's. My main comment to the OP is that 50min really isn't that far to drive. During the summer I regularly drive to Yorkshire from Chester; a minimum of 1.5hrs each way. If the psyche is there you'll find a way to get yourself an 8a project!

(ally smith stealing Ajm's iPad in turkey)

Bodiggo - on 30 Dec 2012
> If the psyche is there you'll find a way to get yourself an 8a project!

Yep, fair enough!
cha1n on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Bodiggo:

You could go to Swansea instead? Dinas Rock, Witches point, Foxhole Cove?

If it makes you feel any better, the drop-knee on Academic is the easy part of the crux sequence!
gazhbo - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to cha1n:

Never been on it but H1N1 at Dinas Rock looks pretty good.
guy xavier percival - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Bodiggo: If you want a "guidebook 8a" near north Bristol then Three Minute Slater at Charlcombe Cornice would fit the bill perfectly. In good conditions it is no harder than soft 7c and is probably a 20 minute drive from Bristol. The crag is only a short walk from the car. It is a short really steep route on pretty good holds all the way.
Bodiggo - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to cha1n:
Bizarrely I could do the bit after the drop knee! Maybe should try it again

Guy - thanks, I'd like to do a 'proper' 8a, however browsing the logbooks there's a lot of stars at charlcombe cornice, is it that good? If so, would be good to do some routes there even if the elusive 8 isn't there!

Ajm - I know 50mins isn't that much, but after a 2h45 drive to work it seems like it ;)
quiffhanger - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to gazhbo:
> (In reply to Bodiggo)
> Black Snake Moan is also good but it's a bit of a one move wonder (albeit a good move) and it's not really 8a.

I found Black Snake Moan harder than Right Hand Man. I eliminated the ledge for hands though, so not much of a rest before the upper crux. I heard that was the way it was originally done. Agree Milky Bar Kid is nails. v5 into v6 into v7 into v5 with minimal rests as far as I can tell.

To the OP: You could always get on this & upgrade it: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=46163 . Might persuade others to try it to confirm/deny the grade.

Let me know how you get on - I've always fancied it but have heard that e7 might be a more accurate grade :)

-ross
guy xavier percival - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to Bodiggo: Charlecombe is fairly tidal and the bottom of the crag gets covered in oozing , clawing ,grasping Severn Estuary mud . There is also lots of seaweed and slippery boulders this all makes hanging around at the bottom a bit unpleasant . The lower holds get filled with mud as well. That said the rock is really solid and the climbs are quite good .
If you go it is essential that you check that the tide is right. A breeze would help as well.
Take the following ; 1.Wellington boots 2. A large groundsheet or tarpaulin 3. A towel and small brush .
cha1n on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to Bodiggo:
> (In reply to cha1n)
> Bizarrely I could do the bit after the drop knee! Maybe should try it again

Yeh, sounds like you should get on it. Strap the knee up and get it done. It's a fairly deep drop knee but certainly not the worst I've had to do!

duncan b - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to quiffhanger:
> (In reply to gazhbo)
> [...]
>

> To the OP: You could always get on this & upgrade it: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=46163 . Might persuade others to try it to confirm/deny the grade.

I was inspired to try that by a photo in the new Wye Valley Guidebook. I seem to remember it involved a massive span going through one of the roofs and I didn't really make much progress. Do you know anyone other than Crocker who has done it?

quiffhanger - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to duncan b:
> Do you know anyone other than Crocker who has done it?

Cailean Harker might have done it. I've always been keen but never quite got round to it.
fezzi - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to quiffhanger:

Sorry to interject the conversation.

Has any of you climbed Liquid Crystal at Cheddar?

Any opinion on the grade?

Thanks.

F

Bodiggo - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to guy xavier percival:
> (In reply to Bodiggo) Charlecombe is fairly tidal and the bottom of the crag gets covered in oozing , clawing ,grasping Severn Estuary mud...

you're really selling it there Guy ;)

anyone want to hit me up with some Academic beta then? a new year a fresh set of beta might help?! feel free to PM me

quiffhanger - not sure that a crocker "E7" is my idea of a sport project, but will have a gander when next at wintours



mattrm - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Bodiggo:

It's probably too far away, but there's an 8a at Witches Point nr Bridgend, takes me an hour to get to Bristol from there.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1025
Mike Highbury - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to fezzi:
> (In reply to quiffhanger)
>
> Sorry to interject the conversation.
>
> Has any of you climbed Liquid Crystal at Cheddar?
>
> Any opinion on the grade?
>
> Thanks.
>
> F

Since you invite a response, 7c+ and not a fleck more

quiffhanger - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Bodiggo:
> quiffhanger - not sure that a crocker "E7" is my idea of a sport project, but will have a gander when next at wintours

Ha, fair enough. Mine neither I'm just looking for someone to get on it & confirm or deny the rumour to save terrifying myself ;)

Anyone else fancy taking the bait?

-ross

fezzi - on 05 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Highbury: Thanks!
olliebenzie - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Mike Highbury:
> (In reply to fezzi)
> [...]
>
> Since you invite a response, 7c+ and not a fleck more

probably more 7c. its a line of jugs to one small hold and then another line of jugs, word on the street is that loads of people are top roping it and claiming a tick.
also academic has to finish at the in situ thread not at the top of the bolts, just that i've heard/wittnessed people ticking it at the ledge and not doing the hvs solo.

when pickers did bsm he put his feet on the flake but not his hands, i think it climb better with hands on the flake but only at 7c+.
ollie
cha1n on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to olliebenzie:

I was also told that most people who do academic finish after the peg but surely you'd still get an 8a tick, you have done the hard climbing afterall. I've not looked but I was told the trad finish is bushy ledge hopping?

It is meant to be a sport climb afterall...
gazhbo - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Bodiggo:

Another good one at Ched is The Wrist Business finishing up the top of Homegrown/Bristol Weed. The Wrist Business in hard enough on its own mind.
olliebenzie - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to cha1n: the proper finish encapsulates true avon climbing, you've got to work for your route not just boulder on a rope.

gazhbo got rained off the top out once so came back the ext day to do the real finish!!
Ally Smith on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to quiffhanger:
> (In reply to gazhbo)
> [...]
>
> Agree Milky Bar Kid is nails. v5 into v6 into v7 into v5 with minimal rests as far as I can tell.
>
You must be on crack. It's bottom end F8a with nothing more than v5 on the whole route.

To the OP; if you want another Avon 8a to think about, try this:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32346
Careful with your tendons - it's been a long time, but i think it was about 7Cish
ads.ukclimbing.com
olliebenzie - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to ally smith: surely its middlimg 8a, but deff no v7 on it anywhere.
if milky bar kid is soft 8a then black snake moan is soft 7c and storm warning is 7b plus

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