/ F8a project close to Bristol
Cheddar/brean probably too far away at ~50mins, normally climb in the wye but not sure of anything there
Have been on academic at Avon a few times but can't do the drop knee crux (dodgy knee..).
Can't think of any in the wye I'm afraid, think Ban y Gor tops out at about 7c+.
If you think Cheddar or Brean is too far away (I used to do it regularly when I was working in Glucester and at Bristol Parkway, so unsurprisingly I disagree :) and you can't get the drop knee on Academic then I'm afraid I'm at a loss, sorry. I don't think Stone Muppet is right that there's another 8a on the bottom of the ramp - I think he might be thinking of The Prince which is 8a+/b in the guide? There might be some sort of bouldery E6 7a or something that translates to 8a I suppose, but you met have to experiment to find which one it is.
In a similar position to you, I chose Right Hand Man at Cheddar to try and work.
Academic is probably the only 8a at Avon. One Scream's Enough is given 7c but is very hard, I think harder than Academic. The one at the bottom of the ramp is The Prince and is very hard and very specific (tiny crimps on a slab)
If you can get to Cheddar/Brean there's loads to go at. Right-Hand man is good and crimpy. Lion Sleeps tonight on lion rock is Shadow Walker with a slightly easier finish and is brilliant. Fornicator Simulator is wonderful but soft (very soft really). At Brean, Milky Bar Kid is great but requires a lot of endurance. Black Snake Moan is also good but it's a bit of a one move wonder (albeit a good move) and it's not really 8a.
You can do Cheddar in 45 minutes from North Bristol on a good day.
Maybe I should find try and find some other beta for academic..
Agree with all your comments about Bristol 8a's. My main comment to the OP is that 50min really isn't that far to drive. During the summer I regularly drive to Yorkshire from Chester; a minimum of 1.5hrs each way. If the psyche is there you'll find a way to get yourself an 8a project!
(ally smith stealing Ajm's iPad in turkey)
Yep, fair enough!
You could go to Swansea instead? Dinas Rock, Witches point, Foxhole Cove?
If it makes you feel any better, the drop-knee on Academic is the easy part of the crux sequence!
Never been on it but H1N1 at Dinas Rock looks pretty good.
Bizarrely I could do the bit after the drop knee! Maybe should try it again
Guy - thanks, I'd like to do a 'proper' 8a, however browsing the logbooks there's a lot of stars at charlcombe cornice, is it that good? If so, would be good to do some routes there even if the elusive 8 isn't there!
Ajm - I know 50mins isn't that much, but after a 2h45 drive to work it seems like it ;)
> Black Snake Moan is also good but it's a bit of a one move wonder (albeit a good move) and it's not really 8a.
I found Black Snake Moan harder than Right Hand Man. I eliminated the ledge for hands though, so not much of a rest before the upper crux. I heard that was the way it was originally done. Agree Milky Bar Kid is nails. v5 into v6 into v7 into v5 with minimal rests as far as I can tell.
To the OP: You could always get on this & upgrade it: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=46163 . Might persuade others to try it to confirm/deny the grade.
Let me know how you get on - I've always fancied it but have heard that e7 might be a more accurate grade :)
If you go it is essential that you check that the tide is right. A breeze would help as well.
Take the following ; 1.Wellington boots 2. A large groundsheet or tarpaulin 3. A towel and small brush .
> Bizarrely I could do the bit after the drop knee! Maybe should try it again
Yeh, sounds like you should get on it. Strap the knee up and get it done. It's a fairly deep drop knee but certainly not the worst I've had to do!
I was inspired to try that by a photo in the new Wye Valley Guidebook. I seem to remember it involved a massive span going through one of the roofs and I didn't really make much progress. Do you know anyone other than Crocker who has done it?
Cailean Harker might have done it. I've always been keen but never quite got round to it.
Sorry to interject the conversation.
Has any of you climbed Liquid Crystal at Cheddar?
Any opinion on the grade?
you're really selling it there Guy ;)
anyone want to hit me up with some Academic beta then? a new year a fresh set of beta might help?! feel free to PM me
quiffhanger - not sure that a crocker "E7" is my idea of a sport project, but will have a gander when next at wintours
It's probably too far away, but there's an 8a at Witches Point nr Bridgend, takes me an hour to get to Bristol from there.
> Sorry to interject the conversation.
> Has any of you climbed Liquid Crystal at Cheddar?
> Any opinion on the grade?
Since you invite a response, 7c+ and not a fleck more
Ha, fair enough. Mine neither I'm just looking for someone to get on it & confirm or deny the rumour to save terrifying myself ;)
Anyone else fancy taking the bait?
> Since you invite a response, 7c+ and not a fleck more
probably more 7c. its a line of jugs to one small hold and then another line of jugs, word on the street is that loads of people are top roping it and claiming a tick.
also academic has to finish at the in situ thread not at the top of the bolts, just that i've heard/wittnessed people ticking it at the ledge and not doing the hvs solo.
when pickers did bsm he put his feet on the flake but not his hands, i think it climb better with hands on the flake but only at 7c+.
I was also told that most people who do academic finish after the peg but surely you'd still get an 8a tick, you have done the hard climbing afterall. I've not looked but I was told the trad finish is bushy ledge hopping?
It is meant to be a sport climb afterall...
Another good one at Ched is The Wrist Business finishing up the top of Homegrown/Bristol Weed. The Wrist Business in hard enough on its own mind.
gazhbo got rained off the top out once so came back the ext day to do the real finish!!
> Agree Milky Bar Kid is nails. v5 into v6 into v7 into v5 with minimal rests as far as I can tell.
To the OP; if you want another Avon 8a to think about, try this:
Careful with your tendons - it's been a long time, but i think it was about 7Cish
if milky bar kid is soft 8a then black snake moan is soft 7c and storm warning is 7b plus
Elsewhere on the site
At a bar in Llanberis an old man chimed in And I thought he was out of his head Being a young man I just laughed it off When... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more