/ Gower recommendations hvs - e2
What are best routes to zoom in on, has to be well pro
like i said havent done massive amounts there but the new guidebook is hopefully going to change that (once/if the rain stops). looks some brilliant climbing there all in that VS to E1 bracket
F*ck me Steve I thought you'd died! You have not put anything in your log book since forever. Happy New Year!
Juniper Wall is awesome, Assassin and the two rising traverses all look brilliant - I did a VS and backed off Assassin, but will return.
Boiler Slab doesn't quite have the scale of Juniper but the climbing there is certainly worthwhile. Fall Bay is indeed excellent, Yellow Wall looks incredible if you are up to the challenge. Done a couple of routes on Upper Jacky's Tor and that is another good crag, nearby Kaiser on Block Buttress looks tempting.
Roll on some winter sun!
The festival has been held in 2009 and 2010, and both previous events turned out to be a great success, with plenty of visitors from all over the UK joining us for the weekend. The best way to find out what this year's festival will be like is to watch the festival video (embedded below), browse our Facebook group, or look at the 2009 festival report, complete with a feature article in the BMC's Summit magazine.
Fall bay. Start up Seth, then finish up Lazy Sunday afternoon going over the roof.
That's paviland! I agree that it's rather disappointing on first acquaintance. The wall below shelob has never had any clean rock. Worth scrambling up though for the experience of escaping the cave.
The best routes there are those HVS-E2 ones that go up the shield to the left of East Gully Groove. Has anybody had a look at the threads on Talons recently? If they've been replaced then the route is one of the best E2s on Gower, safe but very difficult for the grade. If they haven't been changed it's probably nearer E4! :S
We did scrabble through the shrubbery to access Shelob's cave, which was an entertaining little pitch.
O yes, and Shelob is really amazing.
Could one abseil straight into the cave and therefore not have to do the terrible initial slab?
I'm pretty sure you can. The slab isn't that terrible though. It's looks chossy but actually it's much more solid than you'd think (the vegetation is mostly due to Paviland's famous 'plant pots'). There's no gear of course, but it's basically a scramble.
What's that quote from the old guide? "Don't do Shelob if you're fat or pregnant", or something like that..?
HVS (top 3)
South West Diedre
Fall Bay Girdle
E1 (top 3)
E2 (top 3)
Weather and tides permitting :)
World's biggest sandbag. Solid E2! Nice line though.
Isn't that HVS? And isn't it not very good now the top bit has fallen down? I ended traversing just below the top to finish up the 'ridge' on the right.
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