/ NEWS: VIDEO: New Gritstone Highballs for Brimham

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UKC News - on 01 Jan 2013
Jordan Buys on the first ascent of Time and Tide, 4 kbJordan Buys and James Ibbertson have added a couple of new micro routes / highball problems to Brimham, Yorkshire.

Jordan has climbed Time and Tide, E7 7A or highball 7c...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67711

El3ctroFuzz - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Im sorry but that just isnt a solo. Boulder pads, spotter and toprope. Its not a solo..

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=66088
Andrew Smith - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to El3ctroFuzz: What you cannot see from the Video, is that he is not above a mat, but a pit of deadly snakes and spiders.....
chalkyjim - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort lads.
El3ctroFuzz - on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to Andrew Smith: Comments like that is what the Facebook like button was invented for! ;)
Dom Whillans on 01 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:
i don't know why that's graded as a highball, let alone an E grade; it's only about 5m. what am i missing?
TC - profile removed - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

wouldn't get a look in on the news page if it didn't have an E grade in front of it, Jordan has a living to make you know, like John dunne used to.
Daniel Armitage - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Dom Whillans:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> what am i missing?

A quick repeat by yourself would of course give you the opportunity to suggest a more realistic grade.

And to Mr Clifford: Jordan makes a living cleaning windows. Not climbing rocks.
SteveOc - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Armitage:

Good point, you boys get up there and show us how its done.

Though when you look at the landing perhaps you'll realise it ain't a little boulder, especially with the crux at the top.

And if he was doing it for the money he wouldn't have announced this on UKB weeks ago or offered a bouldering grade as well as an E grade.

Great line, well done.



a13x - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to El3ctroFuzz:

Have you actually been to Brimham? Its way higher than it looks and a damn fine effort.
In reply to a13x:
>
> Have you actually been to Brimham? Its way higher than it looks and a damn fine effort.

Well it 'looks' between 5 and 6 metres, how high is it really?


Chris
Fraser on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to SteveOc:

> Though when you look at the landing perhaps you'll realise it ain't a little boulder, especially with the crux at the top.

It would be better to have seen the problem/line in more context, including the landing. All many of us can judge it on are the 7 hand moves shown to the top jug, hence jumping to conclusions.
mark s - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to El3ctroFuzz: ukc forum heroes at it yet again,the spotter is stood on nasty blocks,not on the floor.
simes303 - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Dom Whillans:

That boulder is bigger than it looks.
simes303 - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to a13x)
> [...]
>
> Well it 'looks' between 5 and 6 metres, how high is it really?
>
>
> Chris

It says 9 here:

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=27079

Tom De Gay climbs Tender on the "Some Climbers" video if you want a better view...

ChrisJD on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to simes303:

From the video, it is about 3 Jordan 'Body Lengths' high. (use your mouse to track head to feet)

Never met him, but if he is c 1.8m tall, that makes it around 5.5 m high
jkarran - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I think people often overstate boulder height and (or as a consequence) totally under estimate the seriousness of a 4 or 5m drop let alone an awkward fall especially onto blocks.

jk
El3ctroFuzz - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to mark s:

Haha! Me a UKC Hero! Finally, iv reached an enlightened state!

I think you'll find i said he isnt soloing. Which he isnt. If you're soloing, you dont have pads and spotters. If you're highballing, generally you dont use a toprope, but you do have pads and spotters. Can we see the difference?
maybe_si - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

What a bunch of miserable nit picking b*stards!

Good effort Jordan!
tom290483 - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to El3ctroFuzz:
> (In reply to mark s)
>
> I think you'll find i said he isnt soloing. Which he isnt. If you're soloing, you dont have pads and spotters. If you're highballing, generally you dont use a toprope, but you do have pads and spotters. Can we see the difference?

What if its only a very small pad and Jordan used it to keep his feet dry as opposed to saving himself from injury? Highballing or soloing?
tom290483 - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to maybe_si:

Maybe we should head up Si and get on it???

Of course were not allowed to use mats, ropes, chalk, sticky rubber. But we are allowed hob nailed boots, tweed jackets and a pipe.

Oh and we can't claim an onsight cos we've watched the video of it now. A flash is probably also out of the question as the moon and the sun are not properly aligned.
ark05 - on 02 Jan 2013
if someone who climbs as hard as Jordan thinks its worth top roping first.. then it must be higher/ worse landing than it looks.
andi turner - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News: Looks brilliant and desperate! From memory, Tender Homecomings was pretty high and scary, I can only imagine this is the same. Jordan has absolutely nothing to gain from overgrading, if he thinks it's worth E7 then I'd take his word for it, there can't be many British climbers out there with his wealth of experience when it comes to this kind of route. I've seen him on sight numerous E7's and know he has on-sighted harder routes too as well as climbing 8c, V13 (I think) and even isn't averse to running it out on crumbly sea cliffs.

I'd wager it's higher, harder and scarier than the vid makes it look.
mark s - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to andi turner: doesnt matter though andi,when the punters on here say its crap and not news worthy thats it,end of.
if someone climbed olympus mons some tw*t on here would claim its not onsight because they have seen it from the mars rover.
its like someone who rides a bike saying valentino rossi doesnt power slide his 220 mph gp bike properly
mark s - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to mark s: oh and nice one jordan.
maybe_si - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Oh and Jordan, thats a fine hat! :)
jas wood - on 02 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News: For the record this is more or less my local crag and i can vouch for the scare factor of this climb. I'd consider myself quite "game" for the odd highball (bancrofts roof,barley mow at almscliff being examples) and even if i could tackle the technicality of this climb, which i cannot, it would take much whiskey to get me on it !
Cannot beleive how small the clip makes this climb appear.


biscuit - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to jas wood:

It'd be nice if people just believed Jordan in the first place. Has he ever done anything for people not to trust his word ?

This isn't cycling after all.

Realise how lucky we are to have a sport that is still essentially about personal achievement and having a good time - there have only been a couple of exceptions to this. That's rare nowadays and we should be grateful for what we have.

I think this must be the 3rd or 4th comment like this i've made in response to comments made about Jordan. I don't know him but to me he comes across as what climbing is about. He is always honest about his ascents and how he did them - pads, top roping etc. but still has a massively impressive list of onsights proving his ability.

Why do people feel the need tp be so negative about him?

I'm glad it doesn't seem to be stopping him carrying on.

GrahamD - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I think comments reflect more on how we now grade short routes / high ball boulders than on Jordan himself. There is a line being drawn between different styles and different applications of grading systems here which will take a few years to settle out.
Jamie B - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to GrahamD:

I think Jordan has recognised the ambiguity of the route/problem/highball by offering two grades and letting others decide. A lot seems to be being made of his use of the word "solo", which may or may not have been made with much thought.

I very much doubt if he cares what it is classified as, for him (and me) it's just a neat bit of climbing with a certain degree of commitment. I can't understand less talented climbers feeling the need to over-analyse and belittle.
GrahamD - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

I'd say more over analyse than belittle. People want to pigeon hole styles of ascent which really don't have a category to be pigeon holed under just yet.
JLS on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to GrahamD:

Yeah, I think you and Jamie have it about right. The guy climbed up a bit of rock and offered some numbers (E7 7a or highball 7C) for anyone intrested in having a go. I doubt he intended the numbers to be earth shattering.
Franco Cookson on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News: This block is really big. He gave it a font grade as well as a trad grade. What's the problem? I don't get it. Even if he had only given it E7 7a without a boulder grade it would still be accurate.

I think people (a) don't understand trad grades (b) are ridiculously jealous.

Good effort Jordan. Looks like a good-looking line.
andi turner - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Franco Cookson: I think you could be right!

There's a photo on his blog which demonstrates....
Offwidth - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Franco Cookson:

First thing congrats to Jordan: good to see the gaps in the new guide getting ticked so soon.

Now that wall isn't really big, its about 6m which doesn't mean the grade is wrong but I do think exaggeration detracts from the success. It may well feel higher given how precarious the climbs there are and the poor quality of the landing.

I do think there is an issue here with grades for micro-routes. The grades given to such hard things I think are usually not far off for onsights without mats. Yet drop a few grades and you will find precarious 5c moves with equally bad landings on some routes still given HVS.
JLS on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to andi turner:

>"There's a photo on his blog which demonstrates...."

Link? Google didn't come through for me...
Adam Lincoln - on 03 Jan 2013
Are you guys for real about the height/landing!?

Do you really think jordan would have given something e7 if he didn't think it was e7. When has one/any of his routes ever been downgraded?

Typical ukc this! Idiots.
alex - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to....

Speaking as someone who was there when Jordan climbed it, it's hard, it looks scary and it's very easy to find from the car park so, if worried about the grade, go and have a look yourself, or even a little go.
ellis - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort. Two great lines next to each other waiting for their first highball ascents? That's what I'd be psyched about if I were stronger.
Chris63 on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News: Route, boulder problem E, V, F...whatever, good effort however you want to describe it. If people don't like the letters n numbers then they can decide to just ignore them.
Adam Lincoln - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to Dom Whillans:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> i don't know why that's graded as a highball, let alone an E grade; it's only about 5m. what am i missing?

A brain?
jonathan shepherd - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to andi turner)
> Link? Google didn't come through for me...

http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/bouldering/time-and-tide/
tom84 - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

typical ukc sh1te being talked, i think theres a good chance that a great deal of climbing gets filmed and never sees that light of day because of the reaction from the armchair punters on this website.

5 meters, 8 meters, e5/6/7/8/9... most of you guys should be over at 8a.nu, you're pathetic.
gallam1 - on 03 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

A couple of friends of mine spotted Nick Dixon on the original ascent of Tender Homecomings and the line they insisted that he climbed is the same as this, except using the micro edge for your right hand and slapping up left into the scoop with your left hand to finish.

It has occured to me that this might have been a wind-up, since I then spent about a month trying to repeat the line on a top-rope, succeeding once. I then tried to get it wired, and broke the micro-edge so that it is even smaller now than it was originally.

It would be interesting to hear from Nick Dixon himself to get it cleared up. Anyway, very well done to Jordan for finally doing/repeating it.

Incidentally, for anyone wondering if it is dangerous, just climb up round the back, dangle from the top holds and let go. As I recall Nick Dixon did something nasty to his achilles tendon/heel bone when he fell on his first try, and there was some consternation when he got up for a second go.
hoodmonkey - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to mark s:

Awesome post!
Michael Ryan - on 04 Jan 2013
I wonder what E-grade one of my first ascents would get....I gave it V5...highball.

It is here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=155558

Mick
JLS on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:

Looks quite juggy, HVS?
JLS on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to JLS:

HVS without mats of course!
Michael Ryan - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to JLS)
>
> HVS without mats of course!


It's a bit like Three Pebble Slab JLS...... so let's give it E0
ralphio - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH: a bit off topic here but i've always wondered... How do you get down off such massive boulder problems like the one in the that photo?!
highclimber - on 04 Jan 2013
Michael Ryan - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to ralphio:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH) a bit off topic here but i've always wondered... How do you get down off such massive boulder problems like the one in the that photo?!

Down climb. Depends on the boulder. Some are easy, others, like the Pollen Grain boulder with this problem on, are a tad tricky. I seem to remember down climbing to Lydia's Mouth, the alcove on the left (v3/4 to climb up) then dropping off....or there is a very tall V0 on the back of the boulder.

Michael Ryan - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to highclimber:
> (In reply to UKC News) That's not a highball - this is a highball : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usLZ5vf3isM

That's a route. Fall off that and you die or end up in a wheelchair. Quartz-monzonite patina as well, prone to breakage depending how fused it is.

I forget the proposed E-grade.... E10 I think.... taller than many Hard Grit headpoint routes.

It was quite liberating to be free of E(go)-grades around Bishop: you get a V grade for difficulty then look at the problem and make up your own mind whether you want to go for it, you can usually work out where the crux was, and often it is a good idea to go the the top of the boulder to check the top out....
Ramblin dave - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to highclimber:
> (In reply to UKC News) That's not a highball - this is a highball : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usLZ5vf3isM

I'm not really a boulderer but am I right in thinking that the spotter holding his arms up is a pretty quixotic gesture if the climber comes off near the top?

Looks awesome, though. As does the Brimham stuff, come to that.

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