/ Northern Corries Condition
Any recommendations on gullys worth giving a crack tomorrow?
It's been warm most of today. There is snow in several of the gullies, but most didnt look complete.
We managed to do The Runnel today where the crux pitch was very thin.
We wanted to do spiral gully, but it didn't look complete.
I think mirror direct actually collapsed today as I also had a quick blast up Alladin's mirror (not complete) and down Alladin's coulior (complete), and there was broken ice debris under where it should be.
There is climbing to be had, but you'll have to hunt for it?
Hope that helps?
Don't fret. A week from now it could all be different. Just remember your transceiver and shovel.
Fingers crossed I am a pint half full person believe it or not.
That's good, should give the ground a chance to freeze without the snow insulating it.
The current forecast is for refreeze tuesday night. Going longer term (with all that implies) there looks likely for possibly a fair amount more snow Sunday evening, with some snow showers before then.
The forecaster on countryfile yesterday said that the model showed the possibility of some properly cold weather arriving from the east at the weekend (though also the possibility that the mild weather to the west would win)
Yes interestingly ECMWF and UNISYS are now converging on cold weather gradually getting colder as the week progresses. Possibly substantial snow Sunday evening, and then colder to lower levels too there after.
Of course it's not great right now but it will almost certainly come back in again. Each winter season there's nearly always a period of thaw at some point before cold weather returns again.
> Each winter season there's nearly always a period of thaw at some point before cold weather returns again.
Yes, but the scale and timing (just when things were looking really promising) of this one are particularly disappointing.
I don't think it will be as bad for mixed stuff as for ice. It's certainly a pity in terms of the latter with the likes of Meagaidh and Nevis especially starting to look pretty good just before the thaw.
> Yes, but the scale and timing (just when things were looking really promising) of this one are particularly disappointing.
Jeezo - it's only the 7th January. Heaps of time left for the Ben and Megaidh. Thaws and shite weather are part and parcel of winter climbing.
Update from Alan Halewood
For an acceptable season, for sure, but with this little base at this point in the season would you say late season awesomeness (think screws at will in Psychedelic) is possible? Interested in your experience...
> For an acceptable season, for sure, but with this little base at this point in the season would you say late season awesomeness (think screws at will in Psychedelic) is possible? Interested in your experience...
Aye of course - just depends on how much snow comes along latter and and the freeze thaw. A thaw at this time in January is not out of the ordinary. We were just spoilt by early December being so good. Climbers have very short term memories as well as short term memory spans :)
It's no over till it's over.
So anyone been up Coire an Lochain recently? We're thinking of trying a few of the steeper mixed routes under frost this weekend.
In reply to Fieldus: Aladdin's has a wee rock step in it at the Narrows. Jacob's Ladder and the Couloir are the only 2 gullies in the Northern Coires that are completely unbroken as of today (the Runnel is complete up to the narrows and there is more snow above the rock step).
Likewise, I was in Corie an T'Sneachda today and had a run up Jacob's Ladder and there is plenty of snow in it (and lots of steps).
Didn't see you though Al.
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