/ Glencoe/Mamores/Nevis conditions
We did Broad Gully in SCNL on Sat, but it was all disappearing fast. Today's rain and warmth won't help. Did one of the Ballachulish munros today, no need for any ice equipment at all
It's going to get a little colder from Wednesday, but remains to be seen when and how much snow will come. I'd take the winter kit.
We were up on Nevis yesterday. Only really the large easy gullies looked complete (we saw No's 2,3,4 & 5). The snowpack starts just short of where the climbs start.
We ended up going for no 2 gully as it lookes the best; but I'm sure grade II gullies don't usually have a bergscrund or crevaces? Although the snowpack was generally nice and solid and minimal snow/rock fall, the ice falls were running with water and it was raining on the summit. It wouldnt surprise me if the cornice collased last night as it looked fairly cracked up?
It's already been said though, it's getting colder midweek (hopefully), so the damp snow might consolidate really nicely? Good luck with it!
sounds like unless your thing is grade I (and the odd II) gullies it's back to square one.
Some of the harder mixed climbers may be quite happy to hear this once we get a freeze, some rime and a dusting of snow though!
It's going to be like early-season all over again, with the familiar waiting game for frozen turf, build-up and consolidation. Easy gullies should come back into good condition pretty quickly though.
The turf should freeze quicker than in the autumn now the ground is cooler.
Trying to decide whether to go East or West this weekend if the lower temps do materialise. I was on Broad Gully on Sun, and I hoped something would have survivied on the Ben, particularly the easier gullies.
It's no all doom and gloom a bit higher:
That's kind of what I thought after the weekend just gone. Ach, it'll be worth a punt.
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
Make the most of this months HALF PRICE OFFER on the Five Ten Guide Tennie Mid!! Designed as a hybrid approach and... Read more
I am Matthew Phillips, I'm nearly 14 and I was born without my right arm below the elbow. I started climbing at taster... Read more
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more
The Christmas Gift Guide at Outside.co.uk Check out our top selection of Christmas Gift Ideas for climbers,... Read more