/ End of March - Sardinia or Turkey?

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Blue Straggler - on 07 Jan 2013
Veering toward Sardinia to be honest, but thought I'd just put to the great unwashed...

Myself (6a+ - 6b on a good day) and a mate (6b -6c), both a bit rusty on sport, are looking to go out to the sunshine around the first half of the school Easter hols (he is a teacher so we have to go in school holiday time)

We'll probably have at least a couple more folk coming with us so should be OK to get an apartment in Sardinia (I heard the campsite at Cala Gonone is not that nice).

Just looking to see if anyone has been to BOTH, and could give us some pros and cons.
I have read a bit (via relevant UKC articles) about Climber's Garden and JoSiTo around Geyikbayiri, and have read Peter Herrold's piece on Sardinia.

I have sport climbed in Kalymnos, Istria, Languedoc-Roussillon and Buoux.

I am veering toward Sardinia partly because AFAIK Turkey can be saved for proper UK winter e.g. over New Year, whereas Sardinia needs to be done when it's a BIT more temperate.
Climbing partner thought there might be better campsite "craic" (his words!) in Turkey, but also liked the look of multipitch stuff in Sardinia.

I've looked at flight prices and logistics, there's not much in it so that's not a factor.

Let the deluge of conflicting opinions begin :-)

Thanks
jmerrick21 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler: I think you should go to Sardinia Its well good. does the 6b include standing on bolts?

is it me or does the quantum five ten advert on the left look like stink lines coming off the shoe?
jmerrick21 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to jmerrick21: bump
Skyfall - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:

Yes I've been to both. Both are v good in slightly different ways, as you would expect...

Went to Sardinia (Cala Gonone) a few years ago, Turky (Antalya) a couple of months ago. We climb similar sports grades.

Stayed in apartments at both but did see the campsites at Antalya. JoSiTo's is v well organised and right next to the lower tier of climbing but, personally, it would have irritated me if I'd stayed there (people seemed a little too cool for school). Climbers Garden just below the upper tier (arguably better climbing) but more basic.

Sardinia is definitely more of a beck holiday mixed with climbing. Antalya - well there's not a lot more to do in the immediate vacinity other than climb so it's more of a hardcore climbing trip really.

Although my recollection of the climbing at Sardinia is a little hazy now; I do recall a fair amount of polish and, although it seemed developed out to an extent, there were still some new routes going up. There were some impressive slabby routes if that's your thing.

Antalya seemed, to me, to be better quality climbing (hardly any polish except the very oldest routes) and a good variety of v steep, steep and some slabby by stuff.

Antalya would probably be better for your climbing; Sardinia would probably be a more relaxed trip. Both have some quality climbing though a lot of the older stuff at Sardinia was showing the wear. Both beautiful areas in different ways (Sardinia's coast line and the mountains above the town creating a natural ampitheatre vs Antalya's less developed surroundings with mountain views).

Hope that helps.
Blue Straggler - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Skyfall:

Thanks, that is very helpful.
I'd originally pencilled in Sardinia because I was thinking of tacking on a week of freediving to the end of the climbing, but that's not happening now, hence considering other venues.
We'll see what other responses we get and make a decision tomorrow. I'm sure we'll have a good trip in either location!
Skyfall - on 07 Jan 2013
> Sardinia is definitely more of a beck holiday mixed with climbing.

Sorry, 'beach' not a well known brand of lager holiday.

Also re-read your OP.

Your partner at least may like the fun and games at the campsites in Antalya - both seemed lively, particularly JoSiTo's. Not my cup of tea but there you go.

And, yes, more multi-pitch in Sardinia - though neither of them seemed particularly strong in that respect.

I seem to recall more easy grade climbing in Sardinia. Mind you, we easily filled a week with climbing up to 6b'ish at Antalya without struggling and we climbed every day etc.

Although there's not much else to do around the climbing at Antalya, there is a weekend market down the hill which is great fun to stock up at and try some of the local food etc. Although you don't in theory need a car as all the climbing is so close together; we found a car really useful as we stayed in an Apt a little way from the crag and found ourselves going up the down the big hill for provisions quite regularly. If you self cater at all, you would be best to stock up with any hedonistic pleasures (like coffee, beers, milk etc) whilst still in the towns near the coast as the small local shops have v v limited food/drink. Good for a diet mind...
Blue Straggler - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
>
> Your partner at least may like the fun and games at the campsites in Antalya

It's risky, most of the time he is a grumpy old man who whinges about other people but for some reason he's into the idea of some campsite craic this time, probably so he's not stuck with me pointing out what a grumpy old man he is all week :-)
AJM - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:

It'll be seriously hot in turkey by then and the main shady sector, Trebenna, doesn't have very nice 6s - a few but lots are on sharp conglomeratey sort of stuff.
Blue Straggler - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy! Wasn't sure what the "season" was in Turkey, that is very useful info.
AJM - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:

I've just been out there, and in full sun it was just about uncomfortably hot on south facing sectors if there wasn't haze/breeze
Skyfall - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

On the other hand, we were in Antalya late October and it wasn't very hot at all. Though, on paper, October is supposed to be a much warmer month than March.
Blue Straggler - on 09 Jan 2013
Thanks all. We have plumped for Sardinia after all. I think I can save Turkey for when it's going to be grotty weather in both the UK AND Sardinia :-)

Now to start some threads mithering about car hire and accommodation! (Cala Gonone camp site looks a bit pish so I think we'll go for an apartment)
Peter Herold - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler: Cala Gonone has some polished routes as noted by comments, but if you go to newer sectors (at Cala G. I really like Arcadio which for your grades would be great) or more recently developed bits of the island this problem simply doesn't exist. Round where we live you frequently have the crag to yourselves and I often leave my quickdraws in on my projects, the only polished routes are on the Aguglia di Goloritze. Have fun Peter
Blue Straggler - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Peter Herold:

Thanks Peter - noted! :-)

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