/ Elbow exercises
On a related note, here's some potentially dangerous anecdotal evidence about elbow problems:
I've had a mild case of 'font elbow' (pain in the centre/crease of the elbow) for months, which was worse at the end of the rainy summer when I was not climbing much, but doing some trad. Now I boulder indoors and out regularly and it's getting better, to the point where I reckon I could go on a campus board. I do some push-ups/yoga and use a powerball everyday, but I also did that (but maybe less) when the elbow was worst. So I've concluded: bad elbow? Climb more!
Only been at it since last night, I feel better already but I think that's just psychological!
> I've had a mild case of 'font elbow'....... So I've concluded: bad elbow? Climb more!
I have that I think (biceps tendon?), but it definitely gets worse with climbing, especially bouldering hard.
I've been doing eccentric bicep curls and press ups which seems to help. Press ups seem really excellent (immediate relief and gradual improvement) for my tennis elbow too (also doing eccentrics for that)
I had elbow pain, I found climbing eased the pain once I had warmed up, but if I rested for a few days the aches got worse, classic symptoms. I continued climbing for six months and it didn't affect my grade, but the aches in the following days got worse with time, and were there as soon as I woke in the morning.
I went to a physio and he diagnosed lateral tendonosis (tennis) but also a radial nerve syndrome, not the first time he had seen this in a climber!
I am 6 weeks into treatment which includes
Nerve gliding exercises
Powerball (only just got this so not used it yet)
Physio is happy for me to climb at a very low intensity with the aim of building things up really slowly.
Things seem to be heading in the right direction but you need to compare your progress over weeks to notice the difference. The aim is to be pain free climbing at a reasonable level by Easter and back to my best by May.
As an indication of indoor grades I was climbing indoors 2 to 3 times a week last winter at f6c. I am currently climbing once a week at f4+/f5 and just increasing it to twice a week, I hope to up the grade to f6a at the end of January.
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