/ NEWS: Font 8A at The Cuttings for Young Pair

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UKC News - on 08 Jan 2013
Ellis Butler Barker on the thin crimps of Guy Fawkes, Font 8A, 4 kbYoung climbers Ellis Butler-Barker (16) and James Squire (16) have both made fast ascents of the technical Font 8A problem of Guy Fawkes at The Cuttings, Dorset.

Ellis, from Devon, has been climbing less than two years, and has been romping through the grades...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67724

snoop6060 - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Font8A in less than 2 years of climbing is massively impressive.
Owen W-G - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to snoop6060:

On his blog the climber claims to weigh 80lbs!
Richard White on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

> On his blog the climber claims to weigh 80lbs!

Wow, one of my legs weighs 80lbs!
Morgan P - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News: Awesome achievement! Just keep raising the grades!!
A Longleat Boulderer - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News:

This problem is nails. Nice work!
Sircumfrins - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News: Excellent effort guys! It is a tough problem.
The only thing is that the grade is questionable (unless things have changed in the last 3 years).
I reasearched who had climbed it, after I climbed it in Jan 2010, and it seems that several big names have called it 7B+ / 7C so I ended up settling on 7C as I hadn't climbed anything above 7C at the time.
If more ascents have been made and 8A given then that would be sweet as that would be my first 8A.
Anyone care to clarify?
Adam Lincoln - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to Sircumfrins:
> (In reply to UKC News) Excellent effort guys! It is a tough problem.
> The only thing is that the grade is questionable (unless things have changed in the last 3 years).
> I reasearched who had climbed it, after I climbed it in Jan 2010, and it seems that several big names have called it 7B+ / 7C so I ended up settling on 7C as I hadn't climbed anything above 7C at the time.
> If more ascents have been made and 8A given then that would be sweet as that would be my first 8A.
> Anyone care to clarify?

did you do it after or before hold breakage?
Sircumfrins - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Yes, after the hold broke. The hold broke many years ago (I believe 2000).
duffy01 - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to Sircumfrins:

I did it last year and two holds broke in one session! A foothold broke and made no difference, at least to me and a small piece broke of the right crimp. I haven't huge experience at this grade but its certainly comparable to other soft 8a's.

I suspect the grade will vary according to hold breakage, I thought it was actually a bit of a crap problem, that said it is though one of the best of the grade in the South West...ie there aren't many!
robin mueller - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to duffy01:
> other soft 8a's.

Which are they? Just curious.
Sircumfrins - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to duffy01: It may well be however at the time (of my ascent) I could only go by other peoples advice, as I hadn't even climbed 7C outdoors and decided to go for the conservative approach.
Beastly Squirrel - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC News: Hi Guys, I too was a bit concered about the grade as always. When I first started trying it at the start of the session it felt nails, but when you get the beta and sequence sorted to fit you (and have small fingers) it comes together quite well. No harder than 8a and no easier than 7c+ in my opinion, so maybe soft-ish for 8a? I've never done a hard 8a so not really sure I'm the one to say. But can depend on how well it fits your style of climbing, especially on the two micro crux crimps. Hope this helps.
James :-)

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