/ best easy leads in snowdonia

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Oliver Smaje on 08 Jan 2013
Planning a trip to north wales this summer. Hope to do some climbing as well as hillwalking but have little leading experience. have led a single pitch vs which i had already top roped but want to do some multi pitch stuff. any ideas?
Kid Spatula - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16:

Tryfan Bach is good for a first multi pitch. I'd start with leading some single pitch first to be honest though.

Avoid things like Idwal Slabs as getting off it can be interesting.
scott titt - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16:
Left Edge Carnedd y Filiast http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=41038 is very amenable and a nice long route.
Jon Stewart - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16:

If it's pissing down in the mountains, consider this for an amazing experience that is much more likely to be in condition:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=180521

You will need to use a little nous though - sea cliff adventures require a degree of competence in order to avoid death by drowning (unless you're really good at swimming racked up).

(I haven't actually done the route, but the crag is a favourite of mine).
Pursued by a bear - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Kid Spatula: Sound advice there. It'd be best not to be a grade snob whilst you're starting out; try the easier diffs, even mods, just to get into the groove. I remember doing some of the slab climbs on the Gribin Facet (Clogwyn y Tarw) early on in my leading - short pitches make it easy to stay in touch. Slab Recess (mod) might be a good start, and perhaps some of the others thereabouts if you wish. My memory of the descent is only that it seemed straightforward, but I can't actually recall what it entailed, so others may care to add something about this.

Don't rule out a simple multi-pitch either, particularly if you've done some scrambling before; something like North Buttress (mod) on Tryfan. That might be the perfect follow-on to a session on Tryfan Bach.

T.
Lukem6 - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Kid Spatula: Another Vote for Tryfan Bach. Lots more in the area also if you got bored
The Ivanator - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16: Clogwyn Yr Oen in the Moelwyns is a great crag for learning multipitch with a choice of good climbs at V Diff and Severe and no major nasties regarding approach and descent. Often good weather when the main mountain groups are grisly too.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=862
Another good option if you want slightly harder grades (S - VS) is the upper tier at Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog). As these are both great introductory areas they do get some use by outdoor centre groups, so arrive early if you want to secure a particular route.
Skyfall - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16:


Who are you going with? Anyone more experienced who can help you get into the swing of multi-pitch?

All the following suggestions are classic multi-pitch outings, some in the hills others more or less roadside:

Some of the good long mountaineering routes could be ideal - such as those on the E Face of Tryfan - Grooved Arete, 1st Pinnacle Rib etc. All at about V Diff with typically large stances and short cruxes. More about mileage and having fun in the mountains.

Also in the Ogwen area are Idwal Slabs with the three classic slab routes of Faith, Hope and Charity - all at around V Diff. They are great routes but get v busy on a nice weekend, can be v cold when the sun drops out of sight, and have an 'interesting' descent which many find harder than the climbing! It's not really that bad but you need to know how to move on difficult terrain so make sure you are experienced enough or are with someone who is.

Left Edge mentioned above by someone is a similar slabby route at an easy grade at a less frequented crag but still a good route and feels more remote. It's not far away from Idwal Slabs, in Ogwen area. Might be a good call.

The classic easy multi pitch route in Llanberis Pass is, I suppose, Flying Bittress on Dinas Cromlech at V Diff. You can also have a look at things like Dives/Better Things at HS (one of the best at the grade I've ever done). And look at some routes to aspire to eg. Cenotaph Corner (E1), Left Wall (E2) and Right wall etc.

Over the road in the Pass you might like to have a look at The Cracks at HS on Dinas Mot if the weather is good and the rock dry. It has a reachy final pitch but is steady away other than that (and I think you can avoid the final pitch if necessary). Also a somewhat interesting descent.

You may also enjoy looking at some of the easy multipitch stuff at Tremadog, which is roadside but a little further out from the Llanberis/Ogwen areas. Have a look in a quide at routes like Hail Bebe (V Diff), Christmas Currey (Severe), Poor Mans Peuterey (Severe) and tons of classic VS's. Although it can be a challenge to find the start of the route (they are a bit hidden in trees), you can walk off the top of all of them and the protection on the routes is generally very good. A good place to learn multi-pitching in my opinion.

All for the future even if not this trip.

tallsteve - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
My first leads were in the area. Good rock and great multi pitch routes will get you enthused. Just check out anything in the VD to S range to start. There's some at that grade in Pen-y-pass, with a fairly straight forward walk/scramble off.
Oliver Smaje on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16: Thanks for all the advice, gribbin facet looks v good with loads of variety as does flying buttress. none of us are very experienced but will do a lot of single pitch in our local quarry (vallis vale)i cant wait to get up there and have a go at some of those routes!!
The Ivanator - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16: You might find this book useful, some cracking link-ups included for top days out once the weather improves and the light lasts longer...
http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5359

IainRUK - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to scott titt:
> (In reply to orsc16)
> Left Edge Carnedd y Filiast http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=41038 is very amenable and a nice long route.

Is that suitable? Thought those routes were ran out?

I'd go with Tryfan Bach first.. some nice vdiffs up the cracks.. milestone buttress is great for easy routes but you do have a few issues getting off.. possibly an easy abseil..


Kid Spatula - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16:

Yeah Carnedd y Filiast can be pretty much gearless and some of the belays are woeful.
GridNorth - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16: Why don't you buy a guide book. It will tell you all you need to know and reading it beforehand will give you some idea of the area and it's history and provide you with exciiting anticipation for the trip. The Groundup one is a very good overview of the whole area and the Climbers Club definitive guides list every route in smaller areas as well as recording the history and outlining the geology and flora and fauna.

colina - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16:
just get your head around making anchors.that is the key to succesfull mpitch imo
,go out with someone good and pick up a few tips.personaally I wouldn't just turn up and do a graded route .maybe practice on a mpitch scramble first (no one will laugh at you roping up on the pig track honestly 8-))
.theres a lot to consider on a stance and although its not rocket science you want to know the best way of doing it.
when I first started I had a couple of days at pyb (i'm no expert !) and now everytime I go out with someone experienced i tend to pick up little gems of information of which I may (or may not)utilise myself at a later date to make things run smoother.
I don't think you ever stop learning when youre climbing.
enjoy yourself and lets hope for a warm summer!
Gordon Stainforth - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to colina:

Er, since when was the Pyg Track a scramble. Did you mean Crib Goch?
Gordon Stainforth - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to orsc16:

I would say that Flying Buttress (one you've already suggested) is your very best bet for a great, memorable first lead. Very good rock, very safe (well-protected), very exposed - virtually no equivalent in atmospheric mountain quality at that standard in Snowdonia.
colina - on 10 Jan 2013
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to colina)
>
> Er, since when was the Pyg Track a scramble. Did you mean Crib Goch?

pyg track ? yes ....er,a little joke ..ha ha ,,sense of humour lacking maybe!


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