/ A1 pulley injury advice

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mikekeswick - on 09 Jan 2013
A few months ago I was bouldering at Brimham, I ended up trying an eliminate problem with tiny crimpy edges whilst not at all warmed up....
The next day I had a bit of pain in my middle finger around the a1 pulley. It hurt for a few days but then seemed to get better pretty quickly. I rested it for a week or so then only did light climbing with the finger taped for a few more weeks. I've now started trying harder stuff again but
the problem is that although experiencing no pain during climbing it is tender the next day if I squeeze the area.
I've got an appointment with a hand specialist on the 22nd and am hoping he can shed some light on what exactly is wrong but in the mean time there must be something proactive that I can do to help myself. I've read about massaging the area and using ice after climbing.
Any advice??
el_monty - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to mikekeswick: use cold treatment on the hand and stretch to increase blood flow!
Skyfall - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to mikekeswick:

Have a look at Dave MacLeod's comments on it. Many people refer to this almost by default nowadays.

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html

This is also good.

http://climbinginjuries.com/fingers-pulleys/

When recovering from pulley/colateral strains I have tried contrast 'baths' but tend to use icing on its own, plus gentle massage helps. Anyway, read these and see what makes sense for you.
mikekeswick - on 10 Jan 2013
In reply to mikekeswick: Thanks for the links. Very useful.
nniff - on 10 Jan 2013
In reply to mikekeswick:

I've been plagued for years by these. My usual matra is rest and massage (firmly, along the length of the finger). And wait until you're absolutely sure it's better - an experimental pull-up will put it back to square one. It is not possible to 'climb without using it'. Tape it up when you do start again - Strappal is the only tape worth using - the others either don't stick or have some stretch, which renders it uselss for supporting a pulley.

However, we were having a clear-out recently and I found a pair of those Chinese ringing balls (shiny metal things that go 'clong' and vibrate when they're knocked together (sub-snooker ball size). Heaven knows where they came from.

I thought I'd give them a go and found that the gentle exercise and the vibration worked a treat. It's even better when they're cold.

Highly recommended.

Skyfall - on 10 Jan 2013
In reply to nniff:

> However, we were having a clear-out recently and I found a pair of those Chinese ringing balls (shiny metal things that go 'clong' and vibrate when they're knocked together (sub-snooker ball size). Heaven knows where they came from.

Clue: when you found these, did your other half look embarrassed?
nniff - on 10 Jan 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
> (In reply to nniff)
>
> [...]
>
> Clue: when you found these, did your other half look embarrassed?

You've got a grubby mind and should be ashamed of yourself!

Beyond that I will not comment.

;o)

ads.ukclimbing.com
gingerwolf - on 11 Jan 2013

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