/ Lochnagar or Beinn a'Bhuird Conditions
Forecasts have suggested more chance the further east I think....
Or Beinn a'Bhuird?
Hope to see you guys in the 'Gar Sunday!
Indeed, lets hope so......
......and maybe I'll have Beinn a'Bhuird to myself again!
Well that didn't really work out as planned! Full on gnarl though, and winter definitely back.....
And is Quick Dash Crack the hardest IV in the world?
Gnarl on Anoch Mhor, too!
Tell us about the gnarl please.
How high did the damp go? What route? Yesterday was quite light cover, which made for great mixed conditions.
> Gnarl on Anoch Mhor, too!
The forecast said there would be gnarl in the west. It also said there would be a gap between yesterday's gnarl in the east and today's gnarl in the west moving east. There wasn't. And I had to hang on the rope seconding a grade IV. I am rubbish.
> The forecast said there would be gnarl in the west. It also said there would be a gap between yesterday's gnarl in the east and today's gnarl in the west moving east. There wasn't. And I had to hang on the rope seconding a grade IV. I am rubbish.
Punter ;-) You can show us how it's done in Ratho this week to make up for it....
When it's snowing early doors on the A82, the Cobbler is what you want to do!!
Fantastic nick, powder, hoar, frozen turf, snowing steadily all day, with little wind.
My lengthy wait for 'acceptable conditions', were granted today! Right Angled Groove, done.
Had originally intended to go to SCnL.
But aye good conditions today, turf was good and pretty much a perfect amount of rime.
Yes! Did Quick Dash Crack at the start of last season and got a shock! I thought the tower up top was harder than the pull over the chock stone roof lower down? Very balancy up on the tower for a IV I thought. Good day?
> Punter ;-)
But that doesn't really count does it?
I suspect so.
Did we do the same line? I did avoid a roof thing low down on the left. The second pitch had a desperate (for me!) strenuous section with a bulging crack. There was a balancy little wall higher up, but not too difficult (normal IV!). The crux seemed suspiciously similar to the hard bit described for Sunset Buttress Direct in the Logbooks.
I did look round to the left and there looked an easier line leading back rightwards which I took to be Sunset Buttress. After starting up turfy grooves (avoiding a steepening/overhang on by going round it on the left) we moved left and up to the bulging crack (old peg down right of crack). V,7 would seem realistic (though, as I said, I am rubbish!). Good route though.
I wouldn't say gnarly for Glen Clova yesterday, but damp sounds about right. All the burns in Winter Corrie were running. The turf was mostly soggy. It was misty and breezy, and it snowed most of the day (it was beginning to build up around dusk).
Basically, it's not cold enough. It's coming, though. We enjoyed Wildcat Wall even in the mush, and weren't sorry we had changed plan and hadn't gone to that monster walk-in in the Grey Corries... I loved seconding the overhanging corner crux with a pair of leashless Fusions borrowed from Henning. Wildcat Wall is a very strange route-- lots of heather-bumbling, then suddenly a brilliant but regrettably short piece of technical mixed, then more heather-bumbling.
Quick Dash Crack is the obvious chock stone on the top left of the picture there, if that makes any sense? I think the debated crux part of Sunset Buttress has an old peg in the crack.
Solid turf and excellent conditions on the Stuic yesterday, a wonderfully quiet and desolate spot. Hard to beat this area of the Cairngorms in winter.
> Quick Dash Crack is the obvious chock stone on the top left of the picture there, if that makes any sense? I think the debated crux part of Sunset Buttress has an old peg in the crack.
That is what I took to be Sunset Buttress (as the photo caption agrees!) We started about 10m further right and climbed the nasty flared pod/crack towards the top right of picture. So we did climb totally different lines. Not convinced that your one was Quick Dash Crack though!
Sounds like you had a good day Dan! Not been but have heard others say good things about it.
Just looked at the photo again, think you've climbed a new line then, looks good, worthwhile logging?
When we were gearing up it was so cold with spindrift getting into everything that I was doing my 'I might give up winter climbing' routine.
By the end of the day after some fun climbing, belaying on the summit at dusk with calmer weather and crisp views, it was all smiles and renewed enthusiasm - such is the winter game!
The line we took seemed obvious from the guidebook too - only the grade was wrong! How do you know that you are right? Have you looked up Sunset Buttress Direct in the logbook on here? Our bulging crack had a peg plus Krab at its base and an in situ bulldog with quickdraw and a sling with a krab just below it, so othere have been (or possibly rather not been!) that way.
> When we were gearing up it was so cold with spindrift getting into everything that I was doing my 'I might give up winter climbing' routine.
I do that routine every time my alarm goes off on a winter climbing day!
Ask Simon Richardson - he'll know.
What you were on is to the right of all this, so sounds like you have actually climbed a route to the right of the start of Sunset Buttress.The Sunset Buttress route climbed by John Workman, takes the right trending ramp to the pod/crack, then steps left into the niche to avoid the pod/crack which you climbed. So sounds like you took a different approach, further to the right of Sunset Buttress initial ramp, to the pod/crack (described sickle shaped crack in guidebook), then climbed the pod/crack direct. Others have inadvertantly, while on the true Sunset Buttress line, climbed the pod/sickle crack direct instead of stepping left, this is where the "Sunset Buttress Direct" route seems to come from.
So I am pretty sure you climbed a new line which incorporates the 'direct crack'.
>The Sunset Buttress route climbed by John Workman, takes the right trending ramp to the pod/crack, then steps left into the niche to avoid the pod/crack which you climbed. So sounds like you took a different approach, further to the right of Sunset Buttress initial ramp, to the pod/crack (described sickle shaped crack in guidebook), then climbed the pod/crack direct.
Looking at the photo again, it is possible we climbed Sunset Buttress then, with a start further right. Hard to tell from a different perspective. Way harder than grade III though!
What we did seemed like 7! It was above a prominent protruding block with in situ bulldog just above it. A bit left then a bit right to a peg, then a step left and up the bulging crack. Have fun!
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
Skiing Baffin’s couloirs has been on my to do list ever since I saw Andrew McLean and Brad Barlage’s inspirational... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
On the run up to Christmas we have some great savings on all your favourite brands, so its the perfect time to do the... Read more