/ dovestones quarry winter conditions query

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manwithacam - on 15 Jan 2013
Hi All, we are considering checking out Dovestones Quarry at Chew tomorrow for winter lines. Does anyone have any up to date conditions info? Anyone been on anything or seen how much snow there is/ isn't? Gratefully recieved, Dan
tom290483 - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker:

Not sure the turf will be frozen just yet but the pure snowed up rock lines will be fine.

Planning on running up there later today so will update on what it looks like from afar.
craig h - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker:

This is how it looked yesterday after the brief heavy snow shower, quite a bit of snow went during the afternoon.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21913923@N03/8381717138/in/photostream
craig h - on 15 Jan 2013
Condition report from the back garden - 1.5 miles away and 500ft lower is that the soil isn't frozen here, if that helps?
BnB - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker:

Pondering the same from my base in the South Pennines. Wondering if something at Grade I/II can be engineered. Also considering the Wilderness Gullys for an early morning ascent (I've a lunch date back home!!) Anyone else?
Sam Simpson - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker: I saw these lines in the Over the moors guide and interested to see how they are, hope you get something done. I couldnt actually believe that there is some reasonably looking lines here. Has anyone done them?
tom290483 - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to BnB:

Good day out is to head up central gully in the main quarry (I or II depending on snow build up) then walk along the top of the moor until your opposite wilderness gully drop down to bottom of gully, head up it, then along moor again to top of wimberry and drop back to car park.

By Saturday if the forecasted temps stay as hey are wilderness will probably be a bit of fun.
Ian Carr - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker: Sorry to say that you need about another 2 feet of snow to make them worthwhile. We have about 2cms of snow at the moment and it's only been cold for 2 days. You will be rock climbing. The chew is not in winter condition.
smithaldo - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to tom290483: are there really pure snowed up rock routes there? I thought the winter lines there were 'proper mixed' in that they used turf, which at present might not be frozen?

I am always surprised how long it takes turf on crags (rather than on the tops) to freeze solid enough to climb safely, although it would apepar that this doesnt stop people waiting nowadays.
tom290483 - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to smithaldo:

there are if your happy to swerve around left to right a bit. last time i was up there (about 2 yrs ago) we just picked the rockiest looking line we could see.

if you read my original post i did say that i do not think the turf will be frozen.
smithaldo - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to tom290483: apologies, was a general observation about questions asked on here over the past few days not aimed at your post.

Most amusing was 'it's been snowing in sheffield for three hours now, will anything be in' either keen or unwise to how winter routes form, you decide....
manwithacam - on 15 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker:

Thanks very much for the info. Think we gonna give it a miss up there, a bit optimistic. Probably head to Roaches for some bouldering instead!
tetley - on 16 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker:
There's only one way to find out.....go have a look .... I will be!
steveshaking - on 16 Jan 2013
In reply to tetley: Driving home at 6 there were 2 torch lights half way up Dovestones main quarry (I think, it was dark), impressive dedication by some one, catch it while you can.
Tom V - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Ian Carr:
I'm a bit worried that the omission of many routes in the quarries in OTM because of financial constraints, and a lack of interest from modern climbers who aren't attracted to a crag with a relatively high degree of objective danger, will result in people visiting the crag and attacking perfectly good summer routes as winter climbs, even though they are not in proper winter condition. There are some cracking routes in the quarries and I would hate to see them treated with any less respect than anything on Stanage Popular End.
tetley - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to steveshaking:
Yes, that was an abortive attempt by two of us. As I said earlier, there's only one way to find out..
We backed off half-way up as the turf was not fully frozen to the rock. The route was doable ... but the turf would have ended up at the bottom. As not to strip the route we left it for better conditions.
The problem is that the turf was not wet enough when it froze ... quite surprising when you think of all the rain which came before, although the quarry is well drained and dries in the SW winds.
Anyway, my advice would be to leave the routes until the conditions improve (snow,bit of thaw, freeze would do it).
tom290483 - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Tom V:

Really? You would actually climb there in the summer?

Yes in the lower quarry there are some excellent routes, Bob Hope for example, but the upper quarry is IMO a bit of a death trap. You only need look at titans groove and surrounding area to see that plus rockfall that has occured up around dovestones edge.
Tom V - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to tom290483:

I have climbed there extensively in the summer ( although it was many summers ago, when Initiation Groove was a bog standard VS). Some of the very best routes there were the ones just to the left of Titan's. I hope they are still there.
Hardonicus - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Tom V: This is one crag were a bit of tool wielding is more likely to benefit the summer routes. They are pretty horrifically over grown in places. ironically a load of punters pulling of turf in marginal conditions could be good.

On that note I'm having a gander Sunday probably, the deep freeze looks well set on for the weekend.
tetley - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Hardonicus:
But please do respect the place ... if the turf is not in we all need to remember that others may wish to do it when conditions are better. Stripping the turf when it is not frozen will diminish the route for all.
Check it out .... then make a judgement as to whether to keep going!
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Hardonicus - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to tetley: yep, bit tongue in cheek my post. have noted your findings above cheers.
efrance24234 - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker: bump... anyone been up today?
russwoodfield - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker: Been up to Wilderness gully east and west today very little ice has formed in the lower reaches what there has is very thin and not bonded to the rock to climb on it would have stripped it before there is a chance for more to form. I noticed someone had been there also by the fresh footprints if you read this and climbed it what was the ice like further up? as I didn't venture any further up. The snow was very dry and powdery that said the turf seemed quite frozen. I was surprised that more ice hadn't formed but I think some clear nights with hard frost and rising daytime temperatures are needed for that but we're maybe being hopeful there. A little disappointing if anyone goes up this weekend keep us posted just please don't strip the ice!!!
andy.tromans - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker: yeah, we had a nose, thought there would have been a bit more ice. just scrambled up the first bit and them went home....next week hopefully
Will_he_fall - on 21 Jan 2013
Epitaph grooves was in good Nick yesterday, snowed up rock and frozen turf. Thought the top pitch was fairly stiff at IV, 5. Brilliant day out winter climbing without the usual drive.

Will
Ian Carr - on 21 Jan 2013
In reply to Will_he_fall: Good pitch isn't it ? Marcus Buckley thought it was hard, but the pro is too good to make it a mixed 5.
Chis Guest & Ian Heg also did a new route on Sat, straightening out "Tortoise and the Hare" called Peakaboo. at V,6. We had a foot od snow overnight, so will be even better now.......
Alex Thompson - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to middlemarker:
Anyone been up Dovestones Quarry this week? How are conditions?
craig h - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Alex Thompson:

I haven't climbed in it this year, but this is how it looked yesterday.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21913923@N03/8413128139/in/photostream
tom290483 - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Alex Thompson:

Looking at forecast tomorrow morning could be your last chance for while. Overnight snow with a low of -1 but then above freezing Saturday and 6 degrees on Sunday. Pants.
Alex Thompson - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to tom290483:
Off this evening!
Alex Thompson - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to Alex Thompson: Plenty of snow up there, but the turf wasn't really in condition, bush whacked our way up a heather strewn Evans Above...
craig h - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to Alex Thompson:

Must have been entertaining last night :-)

Snow turned to rain about 22.00, everything is slushy now.
Somerset swede basher - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to craig h:

We went today and everything was melting rapidly. If the temps dip tonight (not forecast to) then the central gully might go tomorrow but the rest is gone for this freeze now.
Alex Thompson - on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to craig h: Was still blowing as snow/hail up top around that time! Entertaining evening...

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