/ Descent of tower ridge?

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Daniel Sutherland on 18 Jan 2013
What's the best decent from tower ridge after climbing the lower routes like Italian climb etc? How easy is it to ab of the far side of TR?
Jamie B - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Sutherland:

Apparently you can get down Great Chimney in 2 x 60m abs - this is pretty much right where Italian Climb tops out. However if you're doing the Direct I'd just ab off the tat at the top of the main pitch - the rest of the route is just a plod.

For routes below the first steepening (Fawlty Towers, etc) you can either do a short abseil into Douglas Gap or carefully downclimb some zig-zag ledges a bit further up (depends on snow build-up). Be aware that Douglas Gap gully does collect cross-loaded wind-slab readily, if choosing this option you might want to send the first man at least down on a rope.
rif on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Sutherland:
It's also possible to descend on the Ciste side of TR, though inadvisable if the conditions are avalanchy. The only time I did Italian Climb we headed rightwards at the top on easy ground, descended a slanting snow gully (Broad Gully in the guide) which took us down to near the foot of Glover's Chimney, then did that.
Of course if you carry on upwards from top of Italian to crest of TR, you could also continue up TR as far as the easy way off from the Eastern Traverse into Tower Gully (or all the way to the top for that matter!).
Daniel Sutherland on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Jamie B: In reply to Daniel Sutherland: ok, I was just looking for an option for tomorrow, how long is the first pitch of Italian climb I only have a 50m single?
Simon Caldwell - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Sutherland:
When we did Italian Direct, and topped out onto TR, we decided we didn't have time to do the rest of TR. The guidebook suggests traversing off rightwards and descending a gully, but that looking quite committing and it wasn't obvious what level to traverse at. So we decided to ab the route.
This was a mistake - we had 60m double ropes, but almost every abseil (between collections of fixed tat) was longer than that. So some bits we soloed down, others we added extra tat part way down. It took so long that the team behind who finished up TR got back to the hut less than an hour after us.

With a 50m single you'd need to take plenty of tat :-)
niallk on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Sutherland:

Have you done TR? If not, pack a headtorch and do both for the full day experience!
Michael Gordon - on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Sutherland:

With a 50m single abbing into the Douglas gap may be your best option?
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Daniel Sutherland on 18 Jan 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon: thanks guys

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