/ Current Chamonix ice conditions?
OHM route book http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/info-montagne-cahier-de-courses-211000000.html has people having done Deferlente & EMHM recently
Are those still good & what else is in nick?
In Argentiere this weekend & reluctant to bother driving to Cogne for a day
tip for access from personal experience. Don't mess about trying to go to the bottom via the side, ab down from the buiilding directly above if you are in the first bin (thus avoiding people climbing up). we got horribly lost and knackered trying to find where to ab down from by not going straight to the top but cutting up from the pierre a ric piste.
I've done EMHM, Deferlente, Nuit Blanche and another on that side in the past, so I'm trying to see what else may be in
Agree that the side/bottom approach to EMHM is knackering even if you know the way - access to Deferlente & Nuit Blanche is trivial by comparison
Never done any on the Shiva side
Do you know if access is still considered very dodgy?
Any of the Cham crowd back in yet?
Many thanks for that - Nuits Blanches looks very entertaining in those conditions
Might have to go and look at Shiva etc
What's the best approach these days?
Ski-in/ab/climb/skin-out or walk across glacier/climb/ab/walk-out
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