/ The Ultimate Tick List...
Am I right in assuming these are all sport routes or boulder problems? Shame to rule out trad as being "too easy" if the only factor is a measure of hardest moves? There are several trad routes with 8C and above individual moves.
Think I must be getting old! Climbing for me is about so much more than just how hard can you pull.
> There are several trad routes with 8C and above individual moves.
If your into sport climbing and bouldering then generally it is more about the physicality than anything else. If you want to be a good sport climber you have to want to train hard.
Dont get me wrong you can still enjoy the movement over rock on a hard sport climb as much as on a easier trad route though.
Yes but hard moves aren't always about physicality in the classical sense, some are just weird. I've always wondered how Ondra would get on with the heel hook rock over on dynamics of change.
Didn't Caff downgrade that (LHR) crux pitch to French 8a+ difficulty? Even less likely to feature on the list...
Didnt really recognise many off that list but did see things like southern smoke direct on there which is almost certainly there for the difficulty of the boulder start?
> I've always wondered how Ondra would get on with the heel hook rock over on dynamics of change.
He would piss it like everything else!
> Didn't Caff downgrade that (LHR) crux pitch to French 8a+ difficulty? Even less likely to feature on the list...
> He would piss it like everything else!
He probably would, but with Ondra's limbs its hard to imagine he'd use the same solution as young Whittaker. Maybe he'd mantle.
Good to see the Gaskins test pieces getting a mention!
I'm pretty sure McLeod graded it 8b+ as a standalone pitch so I dont think it's a terribly difficult comparison.
McLeod said E10 for that pitch E11 for the route and Caff said E8 for that pitch iirc which led everyone to speculate E9 for the route.
> I'm pretty sure McLeod graded it 8b+ as a standalone pitch so I dont think it's a terribly difficult comparison.
> McLeod said E10 for that pitch E11 for the route and Caff said E8 for that pitch iirc which led everyone to speculate E9 for the route.
Fair enough. I suppose the main difference for the overall E grade would be the fact that MacLeod climbed the whole thing on a stripped down rack to save weight. I'm guessing McHaffie was able to ab down with a full rack on him?
I'd fall off and die whether it was E8 or E11 so makes no difference to me!
Well, the 2 French grades would suggest an E grade or two difference in their own right!?
As for the rack, you might be right. Which is right though - if the gears there does the "correct" grade assume you skip it to save weight???
Font 7A+, Is that all? Maybe I should get on it. I assume you have Franco, or maybe you're still a grit hating nonconformist. If I remember right, he dynos to get that hold, what makes that harder than the rockover? Genuine question.
I'm not sure I ever said I hated grit. A lot of it is pretty samey, but this route really sticks out. I loved the move and would like to get it done one day, but I'd need to be local to get a good few sessions on it in good conditions. I was trying it when it was a bit green and it was rank, even the crux of braille trail felt hard.
Yeah, gets pretty grim that section, can feel freezing in Summer. I hope you get it done Franco, it is special, I was lucky enough to watch Pete on the FA, probably the best bit of clmbng I've ever seen in the flesh.
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