/ coire an tsneachda conditions

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terrymccall - on 22 Jan 2013
Heay was wondering if any parties have been up in the coires today, was thinking of going up to do the seam tommorow was wondering how bad the drifts are with the avalanche risk also being high wither it would be better to ab in from fical ridge
george mc - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to terrymccall:

The road has been shut the past two days due to storm force winds. The ridge will be OK i.e. wind scoured but as to what condition the route is in? Who knows.

I'd be very, very careful about approaching from the bottom. Top in approach via abseil as you state is your best bet.
terrymccall - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to george mc: yeah going to dicuss it with my partner and talk about abing in, not going to even chance the bottom approach, did notice the road had been shut who knows what itl b like up there, but fical ridge might not be a bad back up plan.
Milesy - on 22 Jan 2013
Wind direction is pretty much same as weekend. The Fiacill buttress area was scoured. The apron was bomber neve. The corrie has pretty much no snow cause of winds. The aprons at mess of pottage, alladins buttress right up to goat track was loaded.
terrymccall - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Milesy: Was this today Milesy, what were you up doing?
Milesy - on 22 Jan 2013
Both Saturday and Sunday. There has been more snow and wind but direction is same. That side of the corrie is completely scoured. The apron was bullet proof all the snow was loading the other side of the Fiacaill ridge on the slopes down to Coire an Lochain. The buttress was the only bit of the corrie with teams on it. People were in the Colouir, Invernookie, The Seam and others in various lines inbetween.
Milesy - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Milesy:

And on both days we needed to wait on them opening the access road.
terrymccall - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Milesy: thanks very much I had heard the apron was ok on the fical buttress and that it was prty busy with teams as it was the 'safest' option with the wind direction and build up on the other buttreses
John Rushby - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to terrymccall:

Was up Friday and turned back as it was a proper hoolie.

Sat we did Vortex, which is to the left of Pygmy Ridge. The slabs were loaded in parts - new slab sitting on frozen old pack. Our approach was up scoured old pack (hence the route choice)but I was surprised to see groups heading what looked to be some loaded lee slopes. I suspect it's have been loading as the wind has been an easterly for a week at least


Very scoured overall on the buttresses and on the top. .

george mc - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to terrymccall:
> (In reply to Milesy) thanks very much I had heard the apron was ok on the fical buttress and that it was prty busy with teams as it was the 'safest' option with the wind direction and build up on the other buttreses

The apron may be Ok but I'd be careful about what may/has drifted into the couloir and it's potential runout if it releases. It's not just what is under foot you have to consider but also what is above you - and then below you...
george mc - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to John Rushby:
> (In reply to terrymccall)
>
> Was up Friday and turned back as it was a proper hoolie.
>
> Sat we did Vortex, which is to the left of Pygmy Ridge. The slabs were loaded in parts - new slab sitting on frozen old pack. Our approach was up scoured old pack (hence the route choice)but I was surprised to see groups heading what looked to be some loaded lee slopes. I suspect it's have been loading as the wind has been an easterly for a week at least
>
>
> Very scoured overall on the buttresses and on the top. .
The winds have NOT been easterly for a week. They been East-South-East then factor in cross loading - it's all in the SAIS reports. I'd be very, very careful about making assumptions until I'd gotten into the corrie and got eyes on.
AlH - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to terrymccall: George is right. Teams that were working in the Ciste area today reported deposits of snow that were often very different from yesterday let alone the weekend. Some enormous drifts in different locations to the day before. Approach with caution and treat with suspicion any snow covered slopes. http://www.sais.gov.uk/page_northern%20cairngorms.asp
John Rushby - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to george mc:

That's the point I'm making.
Pids - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to John Rushby:
> (In reply to terrymccall)
>
> Sat we did Vortex, which is to the left of Pygmy Ridge. The slabs were loaded in parts - new slab sitting on frozen old pack. Our approach was up scoured old pack (hence the route choice)but I was surprised to see groups heading what looked to be some loaded lee slopes. I suspect it's have been loading as the wind has been an easterly for a week at least

Was it you doing the rather nice neck belay at the top on Sat?

saclimber2000 - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to terrymccall: Any update on the Snow and Route Conditions in Tsneachda or Lochan? Cheers
blackreaver - on 23 Jan 2013
IIn reply to terrymccall: I've been in there today. There didn't seem to be much snow on, the ground, on Fiacaill Ridge, there was a bit of neve before the climbing section, but after that it was just powder.

PM me if you want some pictures.

BR
blackreaver - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to terrymccall: Apologies for the punctuation, im on my phone.
george mc - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to saclimber2000:

http://www.sais.gov.uk/page_northern%20cairngorms.asp also check out the blog - it has photos of the crags. With a forecast of considerable on N to NW aspects above 850m and moderate on the E through to SE aspects (mind moderate still equates to human triggered avalanches possible) I'd be awfy canny...
ads.ukclimbing.com
terrymccall - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to saclimber2000: hey yeah I was up today i would only recommend fical buttress the other aprons look loaded, but fical apron was sparse the wind has taken all the loose snow off this apron and the stuff left over was pretty good neve and the butress is in prty gd nick

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