/ Beinn Udlaidh today (Tues 22nd)

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Alan.T - on 22 Jan 2013
Climbed 'Doctors dilema' today, good ice majority of the way with the odd snowy shelf and a few hollow sounding snow sandwich spots between old and new ice as mentioned in earlier 'beinn udlaidh' thread. Quartzvein scoop and green eyes also seeing ascents today.
Pigs were kind to us.
Paul035 - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Alan.T:

Thanks for posting. Was there a lot of fresh there snowfall today? How were slopes on approach and above the routes?
Alan.T - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Paul035:
Snowing on and off all day and lots of spindrift around. Approach slopes ok but there is some deep powder making the last few metres of approach hard going in places but no real problem. Slope above doctors dilema fine as I think it will be on other routes, wind blowing it all off into the gullies.
radioshed - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Alan.T: Things sounding good up there! How many screws does one generally take up quartzvein?
Paul035 - on 22 Jan 2013
In reply to Alan.T:

Thanks for that
Mark Bannan - on 23 Jan 2013
> Pigs were kind to us.

Did you get caught speeding on the drive home?
paddy cave - on 23 Jan 2013
Alan.T - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to radioshed:
Didn't climb Quartzvein so not sure how many screws required but don't think it has any particularly long pitches so a standard rack should do.

No Mark, didn't get pulled speeding, there are a couple of pigs in the field which you pass through near the farm, apparently one of them tried to eat someone's trouser leg a few days earlier! See earlier Udlaidh thread.

The single pitch routes you were on Paddy look good, we thought about having a look at them ourselves before eventually deciding to go for Doctors dilema which turned out to be good. I've uploaded a pic but hasn't appeared yet.

Back home now unfotunately but hope to be back soon.
Alan.T - on 23 Jan 2013
Alan.T - on 24 Jan 2013
Milesy - on 24 Jan 2013
Thanks Alan that look stonking.
rallymania - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Alan.T:

i have some video from quartzvein on sunday

can't link to it from my work PC, but will post it later
Alan.T - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to rallymania:
Great, look forward to seeing it.
Mark Bannan - on 24 Jan 2013
> apparently one of them tried to eat someone's trouser leg a few days earlier! See earlier Udlaidh thread.

Just done that. Christ, what an unusual food chain - here's me thinking we ate them!
Gordon - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Mark Bannan:

Ha, that was me, but I was tempted to bite back! Thankfully mate got his camera out to take pics of the entertainment and they duly went for him thinking he was getting food out his pocket!!
rallymania - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to Alan.T:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db2qhDRMucs

the actual climbing starts about 2 minutes in, the rest is me fannying about in the bunkhouse / by torch light etc.

down with a gopro hd hero 1 and "edited" in about 30 minutes flat.
music all from free music archive

although some people might say "that's 15 minutes I'll never get back" I hope someone enjoys it a little bit! :-)
a lakeland climber on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to rallymania:

Not a bad video. Mike needs to sort his footwork out!

ALC
Alan.T - on 24 Jan 2013
In reply to rallymania:
Nice little vid. Conditions look similar to what we experienced on Doctors dilema and better than they look from a distance.
Mark Bannan - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Gordon:

I hope it was a ham sandwich!
simon_D - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to Alan.T: anyone been to Udlaidh today? wondering what the avalanche risk/approach to Quartzvein is like just now.. cheers
Milesy - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to simon_D:

I was going to go today but the warm temperatures put me off.
radioshed - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to simon_D: approach was fine but we didn't fancy the ice so did the route on the left instead
mattking_109 - on 26 Jan 2013
In reply to radioshed: Did you go up 'Ice Crew', to the left? What were the descent slopes like? Sketchy?
radioshed - on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to mattking_109: Yeah thats the one. Was a nice bum slide on fresh powder yesterday.
niallk on 27 Jan 2013
In reply to simon_D:

We did Quartzvein yesterday, approach to the crag seemed fine (to me), if a bit of a wade in places. Approach in general was a bit of a slog for a short walk-in, but is a criss-cross of tracks now until it snows/blows again.

A bit of scraping/kicking required at the bottom to get to decent ice and better for axes than screws, but decent enough and good at the crux. Minor cornice now demolished for a side exit and snow being stood on seemed secure enough but not entirely convinced of its quality (I was on 2nd at that point so just hurried on past).

Sizeable cornices above the South Gully area. Freezing level was generally below the crags, apart from when the clag came down and the ice started dripping.

Other teams on West Gully, Ice Crew as above and making slow progress on Land of Make believe. Saw somebody go into Organ Pipes approach gully, but don't know if they got up. With a view from across the coire it looked like it might be quite 'sporting' with only a few icicles touching down, though looking through pics on here, the out-of-view, right-hand side is prob OK.

Peter Pan looked good. Junior's jaunt looked like it might be in from a side-view, on the approach its less obvious that the bottom corner is iced (not sure to what degree though). Would require a wade (av risk too maybe) up the start of Central Gully.
stella1 - on 30 Jan 2013
does anyone know if the ice has survived the last week of warmer temperatures? looking for somewhere to climb around the tyndrum area to break up the drive to fort william. wild speculation and first hand knowledge appreciated.
AlH - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to stella1: Waterfall gully on Ben Nevis described as a waterfall with ice today which gives an indication of what ice at that level is doing.
Milesy - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to AlH:

Thanks Alan.

I wonder if anything will be intact at Udlaidh on Friday for sneaky holiday day. hmm
Mark Bull - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Milesy:

Current freezing level appears to be around 800m and it's not forecast to drop significantly until Friday PM, I'm afraid.
Milesy - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:

Hillwalk it is then :) cheers
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jamie B - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Milesy:

> Hillwalk it is then :)

Why not try going a bit higher if you're after a climb?
AlH - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to AlH: Lower ice on the Ben needs a freeze but still stuff there and should be building higher with hope http://scottkirkhope.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/waterfall-gully-ben-nevis.html?spref=tw
stella1 - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to AlH: thanks for your reply, thought it was a bit optimistic.
Mark Bull - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Milesy: Latest Met O forecast a bit colder. If ice has survived it might just refreeze enough, but won't reform from scratch...
stella1 - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to AlH:
> (In reply to stella1) Waterfall gully on Ben Nevis described as a waterfall with ice today which gives an indication of what ice at that level is doing.

http://scottkirkhope.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/waterfall-gully-ben-nevis.html

doesn't look too bad... there is hope that some low level ice may have survived and will freeze up in the coming days.
RKernan - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply to Alan.T:
I climbed Quartsvein Scoop on sunday. It was terrifying on melting bad ice. I doubt Udlaidh will be in at the minute - it was on the way out rapidly. COuld be wrong though.
Wee Davie - on 30 Jan 2013
In reply:

Udlaidh needs it to be properly cold. There was ice on it last week when daytime temps in the UK were around zero in towns.
Today at Glasgow Airport the maximum temperature was 12 degrees C!
I would say a good indicator for this crag would be- if you go outside and your lawn is frozen (and has been for the last 5 days) Udlaidh might be in.
Milesy - on 08 Feb 2013
In reply to Jamie B:
> Why not try going a bit higher if you're after a climb?

Was looking for a short day due to baby duties at home. :)

Anyway went up today. Was pretty quiet and warmed up a bit but Sunshine Gully was good. Bomber neve all the way up from the coire floor so the run out over the bottom crag would have been nasty in a slip shudder. Crux was pretty fat I think although was starting to thaw a bit and dripping and running going on. Had thought about Quartzvein Scoop but looked a bit thin at the bottom (albeit from a distance). Folk were in West Gully and Central Gully. Another team were off to try something harder at the right hand side but I think but Im sure I heard them shouting down to each other about running water.


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