/ Mont Aiguille
1st time for a Novice just go for the Voi Normal and see how you feel - it's a polished 3b!!
I've done La Tour des Gémeaux 3 times which goes at 5cA0.
Now it's very straight forward climbing with lots of fixed pro but a set of wires will reduce any runouts between pegs.
Pitch 4 is the crux - the topo gives it 5c A0 and it is usually done with a quick pull on a peg.
Route finding from the main section of climbing (after pitch 6) can be awkward but all the info you need is on camp to camp - see below:
Here's my topo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=84942
And a (slightly tilted) here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=84940pic
Thanks loads for this. Just one of those things that when I saw it on screen it screamed 'CLIMB ME NOW!'.
Also the first move onto the wall is pretty intimidating for a new leader of any height. And the move around the corner to get in position for the A0 are pretty intimidating (on polished footholds).
Also my feeling was that the Tour des Gemeaux route is less than the most interesting climbing I've done in France -- it would be far less popular if it were not on Mont Aiguille.
Voie Normal is a better choice for a new leader.
Note that the normal descent with rappels (double ropes required) is not trivial for inexperienced followers - (this applies for the Voie Normal as well as Tour des Gemeaux).
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
Every so often you meet someone in climbing that makes you take a step back. Someone with a fire in their eye, passion in... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more