/ Endurance circuits

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Ed F - on 25 Jan 2013
Which variable should you change to make an endurance circuit harder? My circuit is currently 28 moves on 10deg overhang. 7 laps with a 1 min shakeout on jugs between each lap.

More laps?
More moves?
Harder moves?
Less time resting?
Worse holds for resting?

It's training for long sport routes in Kalymnos if that makes a difference. Science would be great, but opinions are interesting too!
shark - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Ed Feldman:


How many sets of this 7 lap circuit do you do ?
davo - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Ed Feldman:

No science just opinion:

So that is about a 200 move circuit in total?

Are you shaking out on overhanging ground on the jugs?

If so that sounds like a pretty good training regime. I guess if you repeated that 3 times in a session with say 15 - 20 mins in between each set you would be fit as.

I guess then you probably don't want to make it any longer, maybe just put in some slightly more cruxy sections/harder moves to encourage a worse pump and increased importance of recovery.

I doubt you want worse holds for resting as in my experience most rests on enduro routes tend to have pretty decent holds. It is more a case of shifting the pump on overhanging ground.

As I said no science just personal experience/opinion

Cheers Dave
Ed F - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to shark:

Just the two, resting about 15-20mins between sets... I only get a narrow window of time between the wall opening and it becoming too busy to do circuits.

Should I aim to rest less between sets and squeeze a couple more in?
Ed F - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to davo:

Cheers davo. Yeh 200 moves total with the jugs on the same level of overhang. The jugs are proper buckets though!
Fraser on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Ed Feldman:

Worse foot-holds, or shorter recovery times. Depends on how long your target routes are - mine require closer to 50 moves per circuit.
AJM - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Ed Feldman:

Sounds like good low-end pe training. One thing to think about is whether to maybe mix some harder stuff (say redpoint attempts on a hard circuit rather than laps of an easier one, or even doing laps on a harder circuit with off-wall rests) in to get used to doing hard moves when pumped as well as easy ones (comparatively of course!).

In terms of how to progress the training I got told that cutting the rest is the way to go.
shark - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Ed Feldman: Ed Feldman:
> (In reply to shark)
>
> Just the two, resting about 15-20mins between sets... I only get a narrow window of time between the wall opening and it becoming too busy to do circuits.
>
> Should I aim to rest less between sets and squeeze a couple more in?


Go for 3 sets with 10 minutes rest between. Sounds like an excellent aero-cap regime which should stand you in good stead for Kalymnos crags like Grand Grotte / Panorama. If this becomes not taxing enough either make the shakeout harder or the moves harder.

A steeper board would be better for the really overhanging routes in Kalymnos but you have to make do with the facilities available.
Ed F - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM and shark:

Cheers guys, useful stuff - lots to think about!
LITTLE SAM - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Ed Feldman: I was training endurance before an extended trip away by doing large amounts of moves. I was doing an hour and a half session and in that time 1000 moves on a circuit. the grades would only go as high as 7a (sport) at most! I would build it up and then down, id do 0-10 moves 0-20 0-30 0-40 0-50 0-60 0-60-0 0-50-0 0-40-0 0-30-0 0-20-0 0-10-0, then 60-0 50-0 and so on. Id have what ever rest i felt i needed but had to finish my 1000 moves.

I felt a real improvment in climbing through pump. I reckon i didnt necesarily get fitter but my body became used to climbing in a pumped out knackered manner, and i was able to cope with the sometimes painfull lactic acid (pump), that before this training would have seen me give up and fall off.

So id say, shorter rest and more moves. Maybe try the system i tried by doing so many sets of moves, and having to fit them into a time frame, and work your rests around that! But best advice is stay disiplined, go training when you have said youll go and do all your moves, dont leave early!!

Good luck, let us know how it goes

davo - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to Ed Feldman:
> (In reply to shark)
>
> Just the two, resting about 15-20mins between sets... I only get a narrow window of time between the wall opening and it becoming too busy to do circuits.
>
> Should I aim to rest less between sets and squeeze a couple more in?

As has been said I reckon it sounds like a good session. I wouldn't bother lowering the rest time. Just add in some cruxy sections and maybe make the jug resting positions worse.

Obviously you would need other sessions in the week focusing on different things but as a base line aerobic session designed to give you good recovery for Kalymnos it looks good to me.

Personally I have done something very similar prior to a few sports climbing trips and it has worked really well for simulating the length of time on an onsight and the need to recover on steep ground on big holds.

Good luck

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Ed F - on 25 Jan 2013
In reply to davo:

Yeh good plan, might move the footholds on the rest so it feels a bit steeper than it is...

Cheers for your advice

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